Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (1 Viewer)

[aztoyman]

A clamp on filter is not my first choice. I do have a few ideas I can try when I get to that point.

I DO appreciate your feedback. Especially if there are Cruiser parts involved. I know nothing about them unfortunately. I know.......a guy on Mud that knows nothing about land cruisers!

 

[Notsnobdds]

A clamp on filter is not my first choice. I do have a few ideas I can try when I get to that point.

I DO appreciate your feedback. Especially if there are Cruiser parts involved. I know nothing about them unfortunately. I know.......a guy on Mud that knows nothing about land cruisers!

Don't worry, there are a few of us.

 

[Broski]

Like i said I think it's to big, but here are some pictures

The square part hanging in the fore ground is part of the pair system ( smog ) and not present on the 95 -97 models or could be removed on the 93-94s

 

[ntsqd]

Looks like a Helmholz Resonator. Commonly used on late models to damp the odd intake resonances.

No doubt that they are big, but the engine bay of an FJ60 isn't all that much larger than that of a Mini. I'm using one on an Early Bronco, which has about the same size engine bay as a Mini.

 

[aztoyman]

Thanks for the pics and dimensions Broski. That does look like a nice filter. All I saw before was that resonator section. THAT would fit..........by itself. I doubt the entire housing would fit. Maybe without the resonator?? I have some more work to do to see what I have room for. The tire is taking most of the space I have. The small space behind the headlight has the washer reservoir. I have various other items that "used" to be mounted on that fenderwell that have to be relocated. The shock tower, the steering reservoir, electrical components, relocated A/C lines. I had my fuel filter where the shock tower is now. I'll figure it out. Thanks again.

ntsqd, I might have to remove that Helmholz resonator to make room for my Rictafrazm and Shanisfram. Thanks for your input. You got my wheels (in my head) turning.

 

[ntsqd]

I don't think that you're also going to need the turbo encabulator, so that leaves you some extra room that you might not have had.

 

[aztoyman]

I need to get my passenger side fender built and installed. Once done with that I can pull the cab and get welding on the suspension.

My T-case is still being supported on a screw jack. I have a FROR type mount to build but Brian Osborn said I may want to hold off until I get the rear 4 link in. That I will have a better option for mounting the cases. So I've been waiting.

I decided to just go ahead and weld up the FROR mount and get the transmission and cases more safely supported before I knock it off the stand. That way if I get the cab done I can just get it pulled off safely and move on while waiting for the 4 link parts.

I've had so many appointments I just can't keep up my momentum.

I did get a nitrogen tank and put together a charging kit. I've been ordering parts.

Almost done with the mount.

 

[aztoyman]

So I got a little more done on the mount today. I fab'd up lower links for my neighbor's Jeep and machined a couple parts for another friends 36 Ford. It's a bit frustrating. I'm back on two feet for the time being but I'm kinda working with one arm. Just found out my right shoulder has tears in my rotator cuff. Ortho consult soon. It's been rebuilt twice already. Before I'm down for months I'd like to make some progress on this build.

So I'm just about ready to weld this together and I get a call from 4Wheelunderground. My rear 4 link stuff is ready. Woohoo! Still no word on the shocks.

I don't really want to use this mount if I don't have to. I'm thinking of installing it and just clamping or tacking the frame side brackets on. Mainly for safety. I don't want the power train to fall on me.

Gotta have pics so here's a couple.

 

[ntsqd]

I've never cared for 4 power-train mounts. Even a slight twist in the frame puts a twisting stress on the power-train itself. I get that with stupid low you can really wind up the power-train, but I'd be much more inclined to go with three mounts (3 points define a plane) with opposing bump-stops to deal with the wind-up. Let the plate between the bump-stops float a little so they don't come into play until things are getting serious.

My thots anyway, but I've not built anything that can wind-up that much. (Bought a doubler plate from Marlin in '98, built up the assembly behind an R-150 and it STILL hasn't been put in a vehicle.)

 

[aztoyman]

I prefer stock engine mounts just because the poly ones transmit so much noise and vibration. To keep from tearing my stock rubber engine mounts I had put a piece of 1/4" cable from the shock hoop to the top left lifting point of the 3.4 to keep it from torqueing over. (On my 88) It works.

The OEM T-case mounts kept tearing out. (Two of them installed) I finally fabricated a set of poly mounts similar to the TG ones. Lots of noise and vibration transmitted but they hold up. I trust the location of the stock mounts so I hope I can find a way to use them again. I think I will be able to if I fab up a cradle between the front and rear lower link brackets. Pretty sure that's what Brian was hinting at when he said to wait on the trans mount.

So I think this mount will be temporary. The trans fell once when I was mocking up the front. You might have noticed all my "safety" chains in some of my pics. I don't want it falling off the stand again. It could potentially bring the whole truck down on me.

 

[peacesells63]

I made my own tcase mount on one of my 4runners years ago. I bought the FROR center plate, then made some tabs that held rubber leaf spring bushings and mounted to a tube crossmember. No vibrations and shifters didn't move when under load anymore. I'm not a fan of the full fror kit, its too rigid. All of the torque is transferred through the tcase and it makes EVERYTHING come loose and leak. I set the tcase mount up with the same spread as the motor mounts I made for the 3rz, that way the torque was evenly distributed between the motor and tcase.

Definitely wait on the tcase mount. More than likely what Brian is talking about is that it is super easy to add a few pieces of tube between the front and rear lower link brackets and build a belly pan and tcase mount off of that. Your belly wont be as high, but there will be nothing to get hung up on between the link mounts = sweet.

 

[ntsqd]

I've also used the rubber leaf spring bushings from an FJ-60 to make SBC mounts for our old FJ-60. The best pics that I've found of them:

Did the same thing for the trans mount:

Both are captured bushings, with those in the trans mount turned 90° to those in the engine mounts so that they can better control fore/aft movement of the power-train.

 

[aztoyman]

I got the mount welded up today but didn't have time to install it. Or take pics of it. Maybe Friday.

I got most of the rear 4 link parts today. Brackets, some hardware, link tubing, bump cans and springs.

No shocks, bumps or rod ends yet.

Beautiful, high quality stuff.

 

[Broski]

Brian’s work looks like art.

If you were closer I would come over and give you a hand.

Another sweet thing about the 80 series land cruiser is if a motor mount fails they can’t separate.

 

[aztoyman]

I have zero experience with Land Cruisers but I'm impressed with what I'm learning about them. I can see why you guys love them.

Yep, Brian's brackets are not only stout, they look beautiful.

Also, thanks for the helping hand offer.

 

[aztoyman]

I finished up the FROR crossmember and tried to install it. The dimensions are spot on but the frame side brackets need to go right where the lower link brackets are. Easy fix but
I'm using this mount temporarily anyway. So I just rotated the brackets and ran a bead to hold it for now.

The transmission is right where it needs to be. Now I can start getting my rear axle housing ready for the 4 link brackets and set pinion angle.

 

[aztoyman]

I have so much going on right now so not much time for this build. Here's an idea of what's to come.

I did find a little time to grind welds on the rear axle housing. We all know how much fun grinding is.

 

[aztoyman]

With the axle tubes free of the old brackets I layed the 4 link bracket on. Man it's a beefy, Bat Mobile, looking hunk of steel.

I have the orange wheel chocks there just to hold the pinion angle and keep the bracket ends level so you have an idea of how it looks.

I really have to position the axle under the truck with a drive shaft to at least get the pinion angle close enough to tack things in place for mockup. I'm still waiting for some parts anyway.

I might be back on this Friday.

 

[peacesells63]

With the axle tubes free of the old brackets I layed the 4 link bracket on. Man it's a beefy, Bat Mobile, looking hunk of steel.

I have the orange wheel chocks there just to hold the pinion angle and keep the bracket ends level so you have an idea of how it looks.

I really have to position the axle under the truck with a drive shaft to at least get the pinion angle close enough to tack things in place for mockup. I'm still waiting for some parts anyway.

I might be back on this Friday.

View attachment 2952615

View attachment 2952616

View attachment 2952617

good lord! Brian's kit has uhhh... changed a lot. For the better, turns the rear axle into a triangle.

 

[aztoyman]

It does. And I have a Ruff Stuff back brace I have room to put on. Not sure if I will yet.

I'm waiting for the shocks and bumps. I'm also dealing with some medical things and trying to get another Toyota running so I can sell it to help fund this build.

I promise I'll get back on this soon.