850J front, 863 rear, 37s?

[TexasD90]

I have read through the 37 and up thread, and searched around some others. I have seen many awesome set ups, but not one just like mine. I am curious what it will take for me to fit 37s with my spring set up. I am running J's in front and 863s in rear. Will I be able to maintain decent road manners? What will need to be trimmed if anything? Can I still run highway seeds with 5.29s and 37s? Or should I go 4.88? I am about to make the swap and wanted to get some insight from the experts before I do.

Just in case, I am running front ARB with winch (synthetic line), sliders, rear bumper with spare tire, and a fridge in the back. Pretty heavy rig.

Also, will stock wheels be ok, or should I go to a 17 inch wheel to lessen the sidewall movement?

Thanks.

If anyone is running this spring set up with 37s post some pics to make this thread enjoyable for everyone.

 

[DudeAbides]

Your spring setup but no extra weight, 37" military baja ta's on 4" backspacing. Haven't flexed it out yet, still a few things to finish up. I would think with much extra weight you might need taller springs.

 

[RockJock82]

I love those BFG BAJA's but there are some HEAVY mothers...

 

[kmcoop7]

same

I have almost the exact same set up and run 37's with no problems, and no rubbing. Not much work to get there.

My set up is J's in the front, 863 in the back, for a total of about 3.75" of lift. Full armor, winch. My shock set up is pretty custom, but I effectively lowered my bumpstops 1" from factory with the lift and run 5" up travel/7" down travel on 12" Fox shocks with custom mounts. My wheel/tire set up is 37x12.5x17 Mickey Thompson MTZ's on FJC 17's with 1.5" spacers. Also of note, no flares.

I think most after market bumpers will need some trimming. I had to trim my custom front bumper to not get any rub on full compression. Other than that I had to massage the very bottom rear of my inner fender wells with a BFH to get about 3/8" of extra clearance. The massaging didnt affect the body at all, just the fender well. I also massaged the bottom front of the fender well a bit, but even with out it, I don't think I would have had any rubbing there. No problems rubbing in the rear with the spacers. With out the spacers, I rubbed on the frame.

In summary. Pretty sure you will have to trim the ARB, and a good framing hammer will do the rest, then just a little bit of wheel well coating and done.

I would definately go to a 17" wheel. The jump to 37's from 315's produces noticable road squirm and lag in steering inputs. I have grown used to it and drive my 80 like a sports car on twisty mountain roads (fox shocks help), but at first it feels a bit disconcerting, certainly a big step from 315's. I can only imagine what a true 37" on a 16" wheel would be like.

I think 5.29s would be best if you aren't going to add power. I am still running stock gears and need to shift alot to maintain speed at high altitude up hills. It will still cruise 80 on the highway no problem and wheels just fine. I am going to re-gear after a power add (if I don't sell the thing).

Hope that helps.

 

[kmcoop7]

photos

A few pics of my set up.

 

[nicholas]

Here are my J's (863 rear) on my wife's rig with 315s

 

[VCCruzr]

I have read through the 37 and up thread, and searched around some others. I have seen many awesome set ups, but not one just like mine. I am curious what it will take for me to fit 37s with my spring set up. I am running J's in front and 863s in rear. Will I be able to maintain decent road manners? What will need to be trimmed if anything? Can I still run highway seeds with 5.29s and 37s? Or should I go 4.88? I am about to make the swap and wanted to get some insight from the experts before I do.

Just in case, I am running front ARB with winch (synthetic line), sliders, rear bumper with spare tire, and a fridge in the back. Pretty heavy rig.

Also, will stock wheels be ok, or should I go to a 17 inch wheel to lessen the sidewall movement?

Thanks.

If anyone is running this spring set up with 37s post some pics to make this thread enjoyable for everyone.

Although my old set-up was not exactly what you have here, I wanted to provide a little input. In this picture of my rig in its former life (before I de-flared, lined, flopped, and chopped) I was running 863J with a 30mm MAF spring spacer in the rear and 850 with Metaltech's 2" spacer in the front. I also installed the 4Crawler 1" body lift and trimmed the rear portion of the rear fender wells. Even with all of this, I still rubbed on extreme flex when wheeling, albeit much less than it did before the body lift.

I have 17" wheels with 37" Toyo Mts but I have never run the 16" variety so I can't compare. The 37x13.5x17 tire ride quieter and smoother than my 35" KM2s I ran previously.

Regarding the gears, if you intend to hit mountains at all, you will definitely want the 5.29s. If it going to be more a flatland DD rig, 4.88s will suffice.

Bottom line, if you are going to wheel it hard, go with 37s and 5.29s If it is going to be used as a daily driver/expo rig, go with 35s and the 4.88s. My $.02, HTH!

Derrick

 

[VCCruzr]

Forgot the pic, .

 

[CTWZ]

Stance looks perfect on all these, and definitely what I want to work towards after finishing front axle rebuild this week. To clarify, with the 850J and 863 rear, do I need any additional components (ie anything in terms of longer brake lines, relocation, etc beyond:

1 - OME 2850J Front Coil Springs (Pair)
2 - 60070L Front Nitrocharger Sport Shocks
1 - OME 2863 Rear Coil Springs (Pair)
2 - 60020 Rear Nitrocharger Sport Shocks
1 - SLEE SOF1048 Caster Correction Plate Kit
1 - OME SD24 Steering Damper

To my understanding, this setup shouldn't require any additional modifications besides those listed above in the kit, but alas, I am an 80 noob and want to triple check with you guys before ordering. thanks in advance.

Picture included because everybody likes pictures more than just textheavy posts :

96 80-series

• CTWZ
• Jun 9, 2016

 

[GW Nugget]

You would need to start with 2.5" bump stops front & rear if you do not want to cut fenders with 37s. For 315s 2" bump stops front & rear to be conservative but can do 1.5" if you are ok with rubbing.
I just lowered my brake lines with home made brackets.
I don't see swaybar lower spacers or brackets on the list.
What back spacing are you running on rims? Try to get as close to 3.75" BS as possible. That's hard to do wth stock wheel 3.5" works good... stay within 4" to 3.5" I'm at 3.65"

 

[ajax1]

You will rub if you actually fully flex it with that set up, I run js front rear with 1.5 spacer up front I can rub the front and rear at full flex, you will also need to either pull the front sway or get it lowered, also might want to get extended brake lines unless you like ripping those out. I run 5.29s and turn 2800 rpm at 70 to 75

 

[mydogsmonkey]

crazy man, im running 35 MTRs on a 863J and rubbing when i flex, its hitting the frame though, probably need wheel spacers.

 

[CTWZ]

You will rub if you actually fully flex it with that set up, I run js front rear with 1.5 spacer up front I can rub the front and rear at full flex, you will also need to either pull the front sway or get it lowered, also might want to get extended brake lines unless you like ripping those out. I run 5.29s and turn 2800 rpm at 70 to 75

thanks for the heads up, it sounds like extended brake lines, sway bar block, and spacers will be needed in addition to the suspension pieces, right? Obvi want to do it right haha. 2800 at 70-75 sounds nice...may well have to go that route. thanks!