85 hi-steer questions/convo Need Manual IFS box (1 Viewer)

[SlayTank]

Could a Hi-steer system work without removing the torque rod? I doubt it but I'm wondering if anybody has tried. Maybe if you lengthened and bent the torque rod around the tie-rod and draglink with something like 7/8 x .120 steel tube kind like this

http://www.mindspring.com/~jayk3/toyota/torque.htm

 

[KLF]

Holy cow, a Jay K webpage. Haven't heard that name in awhile!

Not sure why you would keep the torque rod if you go to crossover steering. Bump and torque steer go away when you do this.

 

[SlayTank]

haha ya? is JayK a old name in this niche of the industry? lol like Yota from starwars or somethin lol

 

[GRM]

GRM- "You need to rotate the steering box flat, and use a flat pitman arm:"

Im not real familiar with steering shaft modifications but would you need to add a steering U-joint due to the change of angle of the steering box?

There already is a U-Joint on the steering shaft. The only thing you need to do is lengthen the shaft by drilling out the roll pins and pulling it apart.

It looks to me like the flat pitman arm attached to the current box orientation would do the trick.

That picture is of a 79-85 truck with a 86-95 swapped in. Its already rotated some

If you put a flat pitman arm on a 86-95, it will hit the frame.

Could a Hi-steer system work without removing the torque rod? I doubt it but I'm wondering if anybody has tried. Maybe if you lengthened and bent the torque rod around the tie-rod and draglink with something like 7/8 x .120 steel tube kind like this

http://www.mindspring.com/~jayk3/toyota/torque.htm

Most people throw the torque rod away. For it to work, it needs to be in the same direction, length, and angle as the drag link.

For whatever reason, Toyota made special names for things. For example, we call a CV joint a Birfield joint. Or in the case of the Torque Rod, its normally called a panhard rod or a track bar.

 

[GRM]

Thanks GRM

I really don't want to change where the bump stops are. I feel like a huge reason I did a spring lift was to increase travel.

I should also mention, you may need to change where the bumpstops are, because if you let the spring go to negative arch on compression, it will wear out quickly.

 

[SlayTank]

There already is a U-Joint on the steering shaft. The only thing you need to do is lengthen the shaft by drilling out the roll pins and pulling it apart

I just looked at it and I understand what your talking about, There's a single roll pin right? Does the roll pin go all the way through the shaft or are there two short pins on each side?

Also, after you lengthen the shaft should you drill a new hole and put a roll pin in the new hole?

I also measured my travel up front, I have stiffer OME springs in front to support the winch and bumper I'm building. Right now, at rest, it sits at 4-1/2" till bump stops hit, I imagine after I finish the bumper and put it on the truck will sink more.

I'm not going to rock crawl or do anything that will need crazy articulation. What I'm trying to aim for is to have is better travel over bumpy surfaces at faster speeds. And increase the trucks reliability and durability by using the high steer system.

 

[KLF]

The roll pins are actually shear pins, I believe there are 2 of them, I think they are soft plastic. They are supposed to shear in an accident to allow the shaft to collapse/compress.

 

[SlayTank]

What kind of hi-steer kit would you guys go with/which one do you have/reviews? Marlin? Trail-Gear? there's probably others out there as well

 

[GRM]

What kind of hi-steer kit would you guys go with/which one do you have/reviews? Marlin? Trail-Gear? there's probably others out there as well

I have trail-gear 6-shooter knuckles & arms, with all-pro tie rod & drank link, with Sankei 555 Tie Rod Ends.

For the most part, the 4-bolt high-steer kits are similar in quality. The difference is in the quality of the tie rod ends.

When your upgrading to high-steer, also make sure to replace the knuckle studs. They break often. I've used nearly every one on the market, and my favorite is the TG stud, with the OEM toyota's being a 2nd.

http://www.trail-gear.com/knuckle-studs

 

[Fast Eddy]

When your upgrading to high-steer, also make sure to replace the knuckle studs. They break often. I've used nearly every one on the market, and my favorite is the TG stud, with the OEM toyota's being a 2nd.

You broke ARP studs? Edit: I see that the TG Magnum studs are made by ARP...

 

[GRM]

You broke ARP studs? Edit: I see that the TG Magnum studs are made by ARP...

I was referencing breaking stock studs. I've never broken a replacement stud from use, only on install.

I've broke the FROR ARP knuckle studs on installation. Something about the coating makes the threads pull apart after a few installs. The Trail-Gear ones don't have this issue.

I've also broken the FROR ARP hub studs on install. If you side load them at all, the stud fails (they are brittle).

 

[SlayTank]

Hey just an update, I found a guy in CA who was selling a manual IFS box, got it shipped and it was delivered today. ill probably get it rebuilt and when I get all my pennies saved ill get a Highsteer kit and let you guys know how it turns out.

 

[jgranthevagrant]

What sort of place would rebuild an IFS? and would I be better to do it myself? Cost-wise. Both of my IFS boxes leak, so I am looking for a solution. For less than $4000.

 

[SlayTank]

Well I know I'm going to have to mail it to a different part of the state (Arizona). You might try calling your local parts store and see if they know anybody who does it. As far as rebuilding it your self I have no idea, but I'm sure some of the other guys on here will know

 

[KLF]

It's really not hard, the toughest part is usually getting the pitman arm off. You need a strong vise on a stout bench to hold the thing while you work on it, and basic tools. It makes a big mess when you pull it apart, as fluid can dump out all over the place. I don't believe there is a standard rebuild "kit", you have to figure out what's leaking and buy the seals that need to be replaced. The FSM has a good description of the procedure.

 

[jgranthevagrant]

Thanks to all posters. Both of mine leak from the top, so i assume it is an O-ring of some sort. I am a bit leery of the "special service tool" notes in the FSM. I will take one of them apart, and proceed from there. BTW, KLF's re-build looks amazing. I can't believe mine ever looked like that, even on the showroom floor.

 

[liveoak]

I have the marlin hi steer on 3" of lift and had to make custom bump stops to keep it from hitting. One huge negative to hi steer is that it takes quite a bit more rotation on the steering wheel to turn than the stock set up. If you won't be doing hard core wheeling I would leave the stock push pull as I put mine through hell and it never broke. I think the stock set up is quite reliable up to about a 33x10.5 tire.

 

[krprice84]

I have the marlin hi steer on 3" of lift and had to make custom bump stops to keep it from hitting. One huge negative to hi steer is that it takes quite a bit more rotation on the steering wheel to turn than the stock set up. If you won't be doing hard core wheeling I would leave the stock push pull as I put mine through hell and it never broke. I think the stock set up is quite reliable up to about a 33x10.5 tire.

It's not about the stock set up being able to handle it, it is about the stock set up having horrible braking and torque related manners. As well, good luck trying to steer decently when you are trying to give it gas and have the axle articulated far....steering is horrible then on push pull, high steer is great then....I'm saving up money and parts to put it on my 84

 

[SlayTank]

The braking and torque is not a issue at all if you still have the torque rod hooked up. I just want a more reliable and tough system. Personally I'm not trying to rock climb or get crazy articulation.

 

[SlayTank]

I know its over a year later but I just got everything welded up on my truck. Manual IFS box, Marlin Crawler Hi-steer kit. had to drop my bump stops 1 1/4 inch. I guess thats not to bad of a drop. Just waiting on a new drag link from marlin because the one they sent me had a bur or something in the threads. I tried to track down a tap for it but I guess its a pretty random tap size. Great customer service by Marlin Crawler too. Called them up, told them about the issue and they told me they'll send me one right out.