85 4runner Piglett (1 Viewer)

[ntsqd]

Mine has a switch for "ECON" or "POWER". I've found that if I drive sanely that just leaving it on the "POWER" setting doesn't impact the mpg's and does allow the engine to spool-up a bit more before each shift. I periodically re-discover that switch (it isn't labeled) and have to remember just wth it does.......
I had a '85 Xcab shortbed 4wd 22RE/Auto for a short time. I don't recall if it had that switch or not. It was an odd truck in that it was as stripped down as it got, except for the auto trans. I should have kept it.......

My understanding if the 700R4 issue was that at low engine speed and low vehicle speed the pump(s) in the trans don't make much pressure. The lock-up in a converter is a hydraulically actuated clutch, it needs hyd. pressure to keep the clutch engaged. W/O that pressure the clutch would slip, with the usual results of a slipping clutch.

 

[CruiserReady]

Ron said those buttons haven't ever worked since he bought it in 1998. He tried chasing the wiring a few times (I found records of this being done), but was never able to figure it out. Maybe it's my turn to give it a go.

Makes sense. Sounds like that may be a 700r4 specific issue. The 4l60e replaced it for a reason, haha.

 

[aztoyman]

You guys reminded me of the Normal/Power button on the 86 my wife had. I don't think normal was EVER used. Stayed in power mode all the time. Pretty sure she used the heck out of the overdrive button on the shift lever too. Definitely off on the hills.

 

[ntsqd]

In the PWR mode the button is down, if that helps any.

 

[CruiserReady]

Well, I got lazy and didn't post for a few years so I guess I'll update this.

Piglet has had some issues, so I haven't gotten to enjoy him how I had hoped.

First I'll address some updates with the trans function. It often won't downshift to first when I come to a stop which makes it an absolute dog. It also doesn't like to downshift to second gear, so heading up a grade the roms will keep falling in 3rd until it's so slow it downshifts to redline first instead. I took it snowboarding one day and at higher altitude the truck wouldn't go over 22mph without starting to get hot really quick.

Now it just has overheating issues in general up any hill if the temp outside is over 50F. I have already checked basics like thermostat and fan clutch. I suspect it has a very mild blown head gasket.

The next thing I found was that the front suspension wasn't articulating as much as it should be. After some poking around, I found that the shackles were hitting the frame prior to full compression and that the shocks are a couple inches too short to allow full extension of the leaf springs. I got some boomerang shackles from Sky's and they clear nicely, but they are 2in longer and really jacked up my already poor front pinion angle. I will likely make my own shackles, but even then it seems like the front axle either needs to be cut and turned or maybe converted to a regular driveshaft instead of a CV.

Then I recently found that the frame is cracked at the front passenger side shock tower.

There is now a lot that is up in the air with this truck. I will likely swap it as opposed to fixing the head gasket. Leaning towards a 3RZ, but worried I may be disappointed with the power for the amount of work and cost. I looked at some diesel options, but was unimpressed by the info I've found on 1KZs and I do want to keep it Toyota powered. Further more, I can't decide if I want to 3 link the front end since I have to cut a bunch of stuff off anyway. Probably won't, but I do think about it.

In the meantime, I just take Piglet around town for groceries and other errands.

Here are some pics before I had the overheating issues or cracked frame.

 

[CruiserReady]

And here's a few more.

 

[aztoyman]

Nice truck. I put a 3.4 5vz in my pickup that I'm happy with. Much better than the original 22RE.

 

[Mudder]

I love my 3rz swap. However, if I did it again I’d go straight for the 3.4, especially if I already knew I was going to change transmissions. Chilkat even offers bolt in 22re-3.4 mounts for around $250. I know their 3rz swap mounts are hit or miss though.

 

[CruiserReady]

I've thought about 5vz as well, but I feel like they give barely over 4cyl power at the expense of barely better than v8 fuel economy which is the main reason I've been a UZ swap. My main concern is being able to go up grades on the freeway while fully loaded or even towing a small trailer.

 

[gnob]

5v in a stockish truck rips. it quite literally has double the hp of the 4cy. early uz motors make slightly more, that hp can be made up with a sc.
i looked into the cost of swapping out the 5v vs uz/ls and sc waz the answer. fft

 

[CruiserReady]

What kind of fuel economy do you get with the sc 5vz?

 

[gnob]

i don't have a sc. truck (89 4runner) averages about 13-15 on 37s and 4.30s
people "say" they pull up to 20mpg in stock configuration.
best i ever pulled in my 2000 4R 5spd was 18.

 

[aztoyman]

Our stock trucks (80's models) all got about 16 mpg.

On my 88, it still stayed about the same even with 31" tires and 4.56 gears. And then again when I was on 35's and 5.29 gears. I'm talking my typical milage to and from work.

When I swapped in the 3.4 my daily commute was still roughly the same. Of course it varies on how and where it's driven but I'm referring to my typical fuel consumption in my daily commute. I knew what to expect at the pump.

My 22RE was stock and then it was hopped up with Cam, exhaust, larger valves and porting. Definitely more power. The 3.4 was even better. Yet my fuel consumption still stayed relatively close as far as my daily commute. No I don't have data to back it up. I didn't care as I just wanted more power and I got it. I expected a noticeable increase in my fuel budget but it actually didn't change enough for me to notice.

 

[aztoyman]

IDK if a 3.4 has the torque to comfortably pull a trailer. I'd think an LS would be better suited for that.

 

[ntsqd]

Even if it does have enough power to pull a trailer, and even if you have done the vented rotor upgrade I don't think that it has enough brakes for a big trailer. Something on the order of a 1/4t M416/101, sure. An Airstream 13' Bambi? No effing way!
To do that you need the Taco brakes (front & rear) upgrades.

I pulled this little trailer with the 22R in Patch, I did NOT go up any freeway grades, I took the back-roads! The 60 did OK with it on grades, but it too barely had enough brakes.

 

[gnob]

Even if it does have enough power to pull a trailer, and even if you have done the vented rotor upgrade I don't think that it has enough brakes for a big trailer. Something on the order of a 1/4t M416/101, sure. An Airstream 13' Bambi? No effing way!
To do that you need the Taco brakes (front & rear) upgrades.

I pulled this little trailer with the 22R in Patch, I did NOT go up any freeway grades, I took the back-roads! The 60 did OK with it on grades, but it too barely had enough brakes.

taco rears are the same as ifs. there are 1 ton t100 drums that are a bit bigger (wider). front go straight to the tundra stuff and 1 ton t100 mc.

 

[ntsqd]

At some point Taco's got RDB's. That is where I would start from, as the minimum.

I'd use Hydra-Boost and choose the M/C to have a bore area that is as close to ~0.2 times the front caliper piston area as I can get.

 

[gnob]

At some point Taco's got RDB's. That is where I would start from, as the minimum.

I'd use Hydra-Boost and choose the M/C to have a bore area that is as close to ~0.2 times the front caliper piston area as I can get.

last year

2024 Toyota Tacoma Finally Ditches Rear Drum Brakes for Discs

It's only fitting that with a high-tech hybrid powertrain comes ... four-wheel disc brakes.

www.thedrive.com

 

[gnob]

ive never been overly impressed with any rdb and the bs ebrake setups.

4runner and sequoia got rear disc early on but no trucks.

 

[ntsqd]

last year

2024 Toyota Tacoma Finally Ditches Rear Drum Brakes for Discs

It's only fitting that with a high-tech hybrid powertrain comes ... four-wheel disc brakes.

www.thedrive.com

Well, that's just dumb. The 4rnnr's got them earlier? Go to those, then.

From my own experiences with RDB's and helping others with them, the key to an actual functioning parking brake is that it be a drum. No hydro-mechanical calipers like those stoopid Cadillac calipers. The Ford Explorer RDB's use a drum p-brake. There's a reason that converting to those is so popular and it isn't just that they bolt onto late 9" Ford axles. The p-brake actually works and the brake torque supplied is appropriate for a lot of applications. Slightly heavier vehicles can use the Expedition RDB's. They're almost identical to the Explorer parts, just a little bigger.