Lots of great information on mud regarding EDIC and Fuel Control Relay issues folks have had but none that seem to have had the same issue I recently solved. Posting in the hopes to save someone else similar troubles/$/time.
After 3 years of owning my 82 RHD Aussie BJ42, intermittently the EDIC ceased to turn off the engine when I turned the key to the off position. Usually by toggling on/off I could get it to shut off. After this happened more frequently (daily driver at the time) I lowered the AC Blower (bolted to the underside of the glove box) to examine the FCR. It was obvious the previous owner (helicopter firm in ANZ) had some issues with this before. The electrical connector from the firewall side to the FCR had been partially bypassed for 3-4 wires with aftermarket electrical connectors. Examining the factory connector I could see that some of the terminals that had been replaced appeared to be scorched.
I had a good feel that reseating the after market connectors would fix the issue. It didn't
. I immediately ordered a new FCR (There is a guy in the Czech republic that makes these and sells them on Ebay for 1/3 the price of toyota). While waiting for my new FCR I found a service manual (thanks mud) and tested the EDIC. With a good ground and hot to the motor terminal the EDIC happily did the "funky chicken" so I assumed all was good there (more on this later). For the next few weeks I disconnected the EDIC linkage arm from the ignition pump and when I got where I was going would just pop the hood and actuate it manually. Once the new FCR arrived (Just the circuit board with pigtail with no connectors, so if you order from the Czech supplier make sure you save your old FCR box and factory connector) I wired it per the instructions with no effect on the problem.
After more MUD forum/FSM reading I began painstakingly testing the signal on each wire to and from the FCR to see if there was an electrical issue or issue with the Oil pressure sender. Everything looked good with all electrical signals in all three key positions (On, Off, Start).
By this time I decided that despite my previous conclusion the EDIC motor was good, I would do some more tests. I first pulled the coil housing (two screws) and examined the stator. Be careful you don't loose the ball bearing, it can jump off the stator due to the magnetic field or fall off once you have it open. Next I opened up the gear box, other than old grease nothing looked broken. I decided to connect the EDIC to the engine using a temporary ground and visually inspect what was going on in the gear box while the key moved through various positions. This is when I discovered that if I pushed down on the main gear, the motor started moving. I pulled the gears and this is when I discovered that the copper contact pins to the EDIC control gear had old grease and werent making contact with the gear fully. (see attached pix) I cleaned everything up with parts cleaner and then carefully bent the contact pins on the board attached to the body of the EDIC so they would have more tension to contact the control gear. I re-greased all of the components that make contact with each other and carefully reassembled the EDIC. After bolting it back on it worked as designed and has ever since (approx 3 months now).
After 3 years of owning my 82 RHD Aussie BJ42, intermittently the EDIC ceased to turn off the engine when I turned the key to the off position. Usually by toggling on/off I could get it to shut off. After this happened more frequently (daily driver at the time) I lowered the AC Blower (bolted to the underside of the glove box) to examine the FCR. It was obvious the previous owner (helicopter firm in ANZ) had some issues with this before. The electrical connector from the firewall side to the FCR had been partially bypassed for 3-4 wires with aftermarket electrical connectors. Examining the factory connector I could see that some of the terminals that had been replaced appeared to be scorched.
I had a good feel that reseating the after market connectors would fix the issue. It didn't
. I immediately ordered a new FCR (There is a guy in the Czech republic that makes these and sells them on Ebay for 1/3 the price of toyota). While waiting for my new FCR I found a service manual (thanks mud) and tested the EDIC. With a good ground and hot to the motor terminal the EDIC happily did the "funky chicken" so I assumed all was good there (more on this later). For the next few weeks I disconnected the EDIC linkage arm from the ignition pump and when I got where I was going would just pop the hood and actuate it manually. Once the new FCR arrived (Just the circuit board with pigtail with no connectors, so if you order from the Czech supplier make sure you save your old FCR box and factory connector) I wired it per the instructions with no effect on the problem.After more MUD forum/FSM reading I began painstakingly testing the signal on each wire to and from the FCR to see if there was an electrical issue or issue with the Oil pressure sender. Everything looked good with all electrical signals in all three key positions (On, Off, Start).
By this time I decided that despite my previous conclusion the EDIC motor was good, I would do some more tests. I first pulled the coil housing (two screws) and examined the stator. Be careful you don't loose the ball bearing, it can jump off the stator due to the magnetic field or fall off once you have it open. Next I opened up the gear box, other than old grease nothing looked broken. I decided to connect the EDIC to the engine using a temporary ground and visually inspect what was going on in the gear box while the key moved through various positions. This is when I discovered that if I pushed down on the main gear, the motor started moving. I pulled the gears and this is when I discovered that the copper contact pins to the EDIC control gear had old grease and werent making contact with the gear fully. (see attached pix) I cleaned everything up with parts cleaner and then carefully bent the contact pins on the board attached to the body of the EDIC so they would have more tension to contact the control gear. I re-greased all of the components that make contact with each other and carefully reassembled the EDIC. After bolting it back on it worked as designed and has ever since (approx 3 months now).
