80's in alberta or BC?
- Thread starter hill
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Im in Penticton. Let's go wheel, already. There's only one other 80 here that I know of.
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2006
- Threads
- 164
- Messages
- 1,226
- Location
- Ladner, BC, Canada
- Website
- www.lentelconstruction.com
Just bought my wife a 1994 from Memphis. Got it before Christmas. So quiet compared ot my BJ60. I am in Ladner, BC
I live in Calgary. I recently purchased a 97 LX 450. Have not had time for any pics yet, let alone any mods. My plans are along ironyups.
Semlin,
You commented that unless you have the clicks already, longfields are not really necessary. I read that they likely would not last as long as oems because they are not as hard. Care to fill me in on your position?
Karl
Semlin,
You commented that unless you have the clicks already, longfields are not really necessary. I read that they likely would not last as long as oems because they are not as hard. Care to fill me in on your position?
Karl
My $0.02 after my research is that the difference is negligible. Like, maybe you'll get 140K miles from your OEMs and 110K from Longfields.
Considering that Longfields are 1/3 the price Toyota Canada charges for OEM birfs and have a lifetime guanrantee, that's a pretty good deal.
semlin
curmudgeon
imho pre-emptive birf replacement is a complete waste of money for 85% of owners who offroad but are not into rockcrawling for its own sake. just repack them properly at the correct intervals.
if you have to replace, then your best choice is longfields or used oem, but for normal expedition use up to 35 inch tires there is absolutely no reason to replace working factory birfs unless they are clicking enough to drive you mad and even then a good repack and side/side swap might well fix it for you. that is worth doing to me first since even if it fails a birf swap shortly after a repack is a fraction of the work of a full repack (no need to take the knuckle housing apart or clean out the grease).
this advice does not apply if you are going to seriously rockcrawl.
i can't recall anyone here ever having an 80 oem birfield break from anything other than heavy rock crawling or lack of maintenance/ grease. if it has happened it is very rare among a control group of people who use their trucks pretty hard. also, i don't know of a properly greased but still clicking oem birf that has failed from street/expedtion when properly packed with grease. it just sounds annoying.
my advice comes from this experience
-birf broke on the street 2 weeks after purchase at 122k. it was bone dry inside. i stupidly delayed a repack on mechanics advice.
-had that birf rebuilt. it was fine for 4 months then started clicking on turns. later found out that most or all rebuild shops have to eyeball the rebuild tolerances. never do this.
-then installed a used oem birf of unknown mileage that i first had smurfielded (canadian guy using same cryogenic process as longfield to oem birfs). that birf is still in there 30k plus later and even though it is probably softer than a longfield i have had no issues or clickinh with it. smurfielding cost C$25 and significantly strengthens the oem birf. in hindsight i would not even bother with that since it sacrifices life.
i carry replacement c clips and my old rebuilt birf as a spare on serious trail rides. if you have a cdl switch you really don't even need that if you break. just lock the cdl, pull the axle on that side, drop the front drive shaft and go home in rear wheel drive.
if you have to replace, then your best choice is longfields or used oem, but for normal expedition use up to 35 inch tires there is absolutely no reason to replace working factory birfs unless they are clicking enough to drive you mad and even then a good repack and side/side swap might well fix it for you. that is worth doing to me first since even if it fails a birf swap shortly after a repack is a fraction of the work of a full repack (no need to take the knuckle housing apart or clean out the grease).
this advice does not apply if you are going to seriously rockcrawl.
i can't recall anyone here ever having an 80 oem birfield break from anything other than heavy rock crawling or lack of maintenance/ grease. if it has happened it is very rare among a control group of people who use their trucks pretty hard. also, i don't know of a properly greased but still clicking oem birf that has failed from street/expedtion when properly packed with grease. it just sounds annoying.
my advice comes from this experience
-birf broke on the street 2 weeks after purchase at 122k. it was bone dry inside. i stupidly delayed a repack on mechanics advice.
-had that birf rebuilt. it was fine for 4 months then started clicking on turns. later found out that most or all rebuild shops have to eyeball the rebuild tolerances. never do this.
-then installed a used oem birf of unknown mileage that i first had smurfielded (canadian guy using same cryogenic process as longfield to oem birfs). that birf is still in there 30k plus later and even though it is probably softer than a longfield i have had no issues or clickinh with it. smurfielding cost C$25 and significantly strengthens the oem birf. in hindsight i would not even bother with that since it sacrifices life.
i carry replacement c clips and my old rebuilt birf as a spare on serious trail rides. if you have a cdl switch you really don't even need that if you break. just lock the cdl, pull the axle on that side, drop the front drive shaft and go home in rear wheel drive.
semlin
curmudgeon
welcome. there are lots of tire threads here. personally, bfg at's are likely the cheapest and most versatile option and they last forever. In hindsight I'd go for 295 over 285s if there is no price difference (305s are the same diameter but wider). you still won't stuff and there is no substitute for bigger rubber.
Just saw this post 
In Calgary with a US Spec 94 TLC.
Anyone in Calgary have a recommended Mech? Need to replace the diff seals and my garage is too small and cold to work on
And maybe get better mileage too after
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=12380
In Calgary with a US Spec 94 TLC.
Anyone in Calgary have a recommended Mech? Need to replace the diff seals and my garage is too small and cold to work on
And maybe get better mileage too after
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=12380
Count one more HDJ 81 in Abbotsford as of last week.
I missed this thread before, but I am in Calgary too!! although you know that already hill
'91 HDJ81 in Edmonton.
Email is whosthecoolguy@hotmail.com
Email is whosthecoolguy@hotmail.com
i'm in delta, havent seen many 80's around, i'm go'n to cruiser days at deas island soon, hopefully to meet some other 80 owners, i'm not apart of coastal cruisers yet, and i just got my rig "stock"...but hopefully not for long. would like to meet a lot more 80 owners to try wheel'n with one day, coastal cruisers seems to be mostly 40's and 60's, would like to get into trail riding type of offroading as mine is a daily driver, dont wanna kill my rig. a bunch of us should meet up
There are more around all the time now that they have come down in price and the Canadian dollar is high.
I used to know all the 80s in Victoria but now there are at least ten I don't know.
We're around. Maybe I'll make it out to Cruiser days this year if there's nothing else going on.
I'm up in Pemberton with an HDJ81 (the red headed stepchild of the Landcruiser family, Martin you're not alone.) There is another HDJ81 like mine and an older VX up here, not bad for a real small town.
Matt
Matt
Similar threads
