Builds ?????????80 tm Build Input Requested

[Fireman]

Chris, I have routinely run as low as 10 psi on my FJ55 with 35x12.50 on 10" rims and have only lost a bead once on a steep climb at Superlift. I could tell a big difference below 15 psi. Oh, and my pig weighs 6k. Don't be afraid to air those suckers down, getting a bead back on isn't that difficult!

White Trash of the Elwood Chapter, TORC4x4.org, Cottonland Cruisers.

 

[Delancy]

Honestly wasn't overly concerned about loosing a bead, but it didn't seem to do much aired below 15psi, visually speaking.

Won't be skeered for 6psi with the bead locks and the Krawlers will benefit from.

Was about to drill the rims for the Monster valves when a buddy called requesting a river rescue.

I have a greater appreciation for the FJCs long travel suspension, considering speed is a necessity on the river bottom, and lower COG.

Can add FJC, Jeep, Chevy Recovery Vehicle to the 80, though all I brought of value was a little common sense, snatch strap, and snatch block to the party.

 

[Delancy]

I'd do a write up, but can't compete with NLXTACY, plus there's 400 online already.

Monster Valve Cliff Notes Install.

Mark hole opposite existing stem.

Man up, and realize it can be TIG 'd if incorrect.

Drill 1/8, then 3/8", then 7/16" ( or use a 7/16th step bit ).






Tap






Install valve body with thread putty






Finish, repeat on balance.






The TRs don't offer as many locations to mount, since have to be able to access the red ring (it's the deflator). I carry a spare and first time I dislodge, will consider bigger rings.

 

[LT]

Awwwww your starting to grow up and make big modifications that don't bolt on *sheds a tear

 

[Delancy]

 

[Delancy]

 

[Fireman]

How much? Jk!

White Trash of the Elwood Chapter, TORC4x4.org, Cottonland Cruisers.

 

[Delancy]

As "Liked" elsewhere, I'm the guy that'll buy three gallons more gas to save thirty minutes.

That said, thirty second air downs are priceless.

Heading to Disney, OK (Grand Lake area of NEOK) this weekend. Good group of guys going, so extending an invitation. Amenities suck, but wheelings not bad.

 

[Fireman]

Hey!




Yall have fun!

White Trash of the Elwood Chapter, TORC4x4.org, Cottonland Cruisers.

 

[LT]

You can use some pointers

http://ultra4racing.com/live/

 

[Delancy]

Have followed several of the builds throughout the year. Watched last year, primarily to see Maddog run the FJC, but became interested.

Looking forward to seeing the festivities. There's a live feed after dark from the lakebed that holds promise to entertain.

As to the pointers,

Realized that high speed in the rough sand, the 80 isn't my best arrow in the quiver, yet.

Let's talk your favorite subject.

Travel.

The answer may not matter, because I know the process I'm embarking on, but want to make sure it's shear stupidity in the eyes of Mudasses.

Cutting fenders as high as I feel I can achieve and it not look like chit.

Stuffing the entire axle, measuring.

Stuffing to the point the coils bind (requesting compressed dimensions now), measuring.

Dropping the entire axle, measuring.

Coils won't fall out, so extended doesn't matter.

THEN, stuffing one tire, dropping the other, measuring difference.

Now, considering there's no desire to run Ultra 4 in my pink panty station wagon, would it make the most sense to only consider the stuffed/drooped dimension, or should the articulated dimension be considered?

 

[LT]

You should only worry about articulation travel numbers, you will be able to run a larger shock that way. Since you're not launching your truck the vertical travel numbers are worthless and would require a much smaller shock.

You could convert your shock mounting system up front to an eye mount style and that way you can run a generic 10",12",14" travel shock from any of the companies King, Radflo, Icon, etc

 

[Delancy]

Gotcha, though I'd think that would be the shortest dimension on the front, since it binds.

Planning Glenn's and, based on preliminary conversations with, off the shelf isn't an option.

That considered, should the front mount convert anyway?

Posted the preliminary numbers somewhere, after a discussion with Glenn wherein he stated all that would matter was compressed.

Put in on a forklift (fenders uncut and not with final tires, so flawed) and stuffed it, but the measurement given caused enough concern for him to suggest cycling. The extended numbers possible were "well beyond the 7" TJM" was the reply.

I hate to wait another two months while I hem haw around on the fenders to order the shocks, since L's mean "lousy" to me, so asking why it matters if the extended lengths are unusable. Coil can't come out and, as long as it's not limiting up, don't see what it'd matter.

 

[LT]

What's your compressed and extended lengths?

 

[Delancy]

Last untouched component deflowered.























Looked clean after the 110k.

 

[Delancy]

What's your compressed and extended lengths?

Be back with shortly.

 

[Delancy]

Rear
Compressed - 20"
Extended-29.37"

Front
Compressed- 21.5"
Extended- 30.24"

The compressed were provided, extended calculated based off of.

All compressed measures are ~4.5" from RH.

Edited: I'm assuming those wont vary much with cut fenders, considering the additional height of the Krawlers.

 

[Delancy]

Dual Battery Parts Acquisition underway.





Ordered the dual rectifier from mobi-arc with combine feature, hopefully switched with an OE defrost switch, and as part of an overall effort that includes the Slee in cab board, using OE antenna switch, and a winch power disconnect using the Warn Power Interrupt with OE defrost switch.

I have no clue how to proceed from here, but do have all but the wire.

 

[LT]

Rear
Compressed - 20"
Extended-29.37"

Front
Compressed- 21.5"
Extended- 30.24"

The compressed were provided, extended calculated based off of.

All compressed measures are ~4.5" from RH.

Edited: I'm assuming those wont vary much with cut fenders, considering the additional height of the Krawlers.

For the front you could go with a standard 10" travel remote reservoir shocks from Radflo and convert the mounting to a standard eye design

http://www.radflo.com/non_coil_app.htm

Stem conversion to eye

http://www.metaltech4x4.com/p-230-universal-pin-to-eyelet-shock-conversion.aspx

 

[Delancy]

No offense , but not using a stem to eye adapter. Will weld on mounts, using the newfound confidence in fab skills (Bahahaha) long before.

But, you're suggesting abandoning the pin to pin, correct?

That'll delay this even further.