Builds ?????????80 tm Build Input Requested

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80BajaBound said:
Fwiw- I bought my 97, 1 owner with 203k on it. The PO told me he never "turned that switch". My lockers wouldn't engage until i put it on a lift and turned the wheel lock to lock and shifting from drive to reverse. Now they work as the should.
Congrats on your purchase and I look forward to following your build.

Thanks for the tip, and will try as soon as I get back to town with.

I can't recall actually looking forward to picking up a vehicle, or building as much as this, so it should be interesting.
 
fjrohrs LX that I can thank for partially starting the migration from FJC to FZJ.



image-4057843998.webp

And also for the flare-less configuration. Hope I can get the white as cleanly plugged as the black.
image-4057843998.webp
 
If fabricating a front, considering flare-less, had considered mimicking the OEM with internal winch mount, in a similar style to this.



View attachment 624216





Why is this a bad idea?

From experiences with the FJC Expedition One and a high speed encounter with a deer, I can see hoops being favorable, but short of that I've found no other benefit.

In attempting to maintain a minimalist appearance, shave unnecessary weight, this appears viable, but sure there's a reason why I haven't seen but this one.

This looks like the PO of my truck's previous truck. The bumper was very tight which was nice but did not provide any protection and broke when touching a rock.
 
fjrohrs LX that I can thank for partially starting the migration from FJC to FZJ.



View attachment 624250

And also for the flare-less configuration. Hope I can get the white as cleanly plugged as the black.

We spoke about this last night but to reiterate.

This picture is misleading as the rhino lining is clearly visible in the daylight/not wet. I use Ice wax to keep it looking good and to prevent fade.

That being said I would not go the rhino-lined route as the product is thin and brittle. I would go with line-x if I had to do it again or would paint them.

Let's go wheel that thing.
 
Rounding up certified funds now, and about to pay $250 extra for a one way rental. It'd have been cheaper to fly to Dallas than drive to the middle of Missouri.

I haven't searched yet, but a customer of mine, whose in the body shop business stated that an epoxy filler would be much more economical, and be as durable as welding.

After the high dollar quote from a different, well renowned shop that has worked on my wife's GX460, I'd consider the epoxy if it's proven to be semi-durable, over lining.

Trying to find more economical alternatives, but at the same time I don't want to cut corners, nor line, nor leave the cladding, flares, rack and spoiler on there.
 
You won't have to worry about filling as many holes if you decided to man up, get the sawzall out and start chopping the front fenders :flipoff2:
 
Will this fit in the back of an PP80?


image-4031066611.webp


$250 one way rental, sans bella donna Italiana and all insult to injury considering the contortion act required to squeeze my 6'1", 210lb arse in it.


Stupid post, just wish it were tomorrow already.
image-4031066611.webp
 
I'm in Columbia, MO and saw this one down at Lake Ozark on CL. Hope you talked some sense into him on his price. Looks extremely clean. Enjoy!
 
harrydunn said:
I'm in Columbia, MO and saw this one down at Lake Ozark on CL. Hope you talked some sense into him on his price. Looks extremely clean. Enjoy!

Hmmm. Want to drive to Tulsa for $250? Not sure how to get you home.....

Some sense. Considering I've yet to see it, will impart learned arts of negotiation, in person tomorrow, in hopes of salvaging funds for the build budget.
 
Will this fit in the back of an PP80?


View attachment 625128


$250 one way rental, sans bella donna Italiana and all insult to injury considering the contortion act required to squeeze my 6'1", 210lb arse in it.


Stupid post, just wish it were tomorrow already.

Bet you feel like you've lost something without 35's and a lift eh?
 
Hmmm. Want to drive to Tulsa for $250? Not sure how to get you home.....

I may be tempted to head north with it. :p Let us know how your trip back goes.
 
harrydunn said:
I may be tempted to head north with it. :p Let us know how your trip back goes.

I meant drive the Fiat back to Tulsa for $250. Hahaha. That's what it's costing to leave in MO.

Will post up all as soon as I see.

Can't recall this much anticipation for a used car since my first, a 280ZX in 1990. Hahaha.
 
I meant drive the Fiat back to Tulsa for $250. Hahaha. That's what it's costing to leave in MO.

I'm 6'-5". I'll pass! :D
 
After a little re-negotiations, driving home in the LX. It's clean, but has a few "issues". Some unimportant, others not, but all used.

What doesn't matter (I think, and pics to follow)

Tires don't have much life left and one is out of balance.

Body moldings, flares, boards and roof rack paint aren't in great condition.

Wheel coating is shot, and center caps are faded dramatically

Premium sound system is crap. "The disc changer and cassette player has never been used" though.

Old man armor all on every surface of interior.

Chip in windshield. (drive an FJC, so why that isn't major)

What does matter

Interior shows signs of wear more than depicted. It's, by far, the best I've looked at locally, but not perfect. Some of the labels were removed from visors. (before flaming, considering I was paying a premium for, the reason for addressing.)

The hood latch doesn't function well, and appears to be set too high. The DS corner of the hood sits high. Gas hatch needs adjusting.
(Edited after 65 miles at highway speeds. The hood moves more than my F350. Probably adjustment, but it's irritating. I was aware of storm damage to the hood and I know a Toyota hood was used to replace, according to the receipt, but it needs adjusting is all, I hope).

The axle isn't the cleanest I've seen. He claimed that the servicing location checked them and stated they were fine, but they've signs of seepage.

Seal at DS window sill, sunroof, and PS APillar windshield need attendance. He had explained that the sun roof was left partially open and it rained in. I was on the fence about removing. This may solidify.

Alignment, possibly. Steering is very heavy at low speed, and very light at 80. Ride quality

A lot of wind noise from the a pillars.

More to come, I'm sure.

The good

Little to no rust. I'm actually surprised by how little there is, in comparison to what I've seen.

Lockers quickly engaged, even though he stated he's never used, not even had in low. The didn't disengage easily, though.

Runs good, ac blows cold, fresh brake pads, so it's still spongy, but responds.

Again, more to come with pics.
 
Planning a full round of PM first.

Tranny flush
Coolant flush
Transfer case, diffs, power steering, engine fills
ABS flush
Lube driveline
Air filter
Plugs and wires
Replace heater hoses
Replace power steering lines
Fuel/power steering filters
Find whatever is rolling around above my head in the headliner. Immediately.

Assuming its be as good a time as any to swap for extended stainless brake lines, need to determine what I need to get.

Planning a regear, so not certain if the diffs shouldn't wait until. Do whatever axle maintenance required then, too.

Input? Forget anything?
 
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Added.
Fan clutch.

106k, but would it be stupid to do the HG now?

Edited: one more, then I'll quit for now.

I'm in OK where there's no safety inspections required, and I plan on building and keeping.
That said, should I cut the cats off?
 
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I was thinking about asking if you wanted to trade my new one for the pretty white LX I've been looking for but after your truth description I'll stick to what I have. Nice find though, it's a shame you are going to tear it all apart, but like you said all the molding was battered up anyway. Have fun building. Changing the HG for PM is way over rated and will just cause it to go out sooner, mileage wise, then if you just drove it. Some of these never have HG issues only 20% of Mud members have a HG problem.
 
I've an honesty policy, as many of the guys that are here, and on otter forums know, and I'll be the last to say "it's the best in the world because it's mine".

That said, it is in better shape by 400% of anything I've laid eyes on locally, but it needs work. I wasn't opposed to buying one that needed a few things, but at the description given after a very detailed questionnaire to seller, this doesn't match it. Still feel I got a decent deal, all things considered, but I won't have reservations about building, as much as I would a mintier LX.

Thanks for the percentage of HG failures. That's a good way to keep it in perspective, and will wait. Coming from an 6.0L F350, HGs are on the forefront of my concern to eliminate head issues.

Edited: I knew it was a fifteen year old car, and didn't expect complete perfection, but I would've taken it and paid the amount renegotiated for it to have been perfect......then built it and wheeled it.
 

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