@TRAIL TAILOR Put me on the list if you ever decide to sale.
80 series 'ute chops' popular here in Oz but what about the USA etc.?
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Didn’t even realize this thread existed.
I chopped my 80 a year ago and it’s been sitting in my garage idle, up until a month ago. Took some time off work to get it completed.
Lots of hate from the idea but I’m building the rig for my own personal enjoyment and seeing how far my skills can take me.
You guys can follow along on my IG:
Jameson (@ronin_metalworks) • Instagram photos and videos - https://instagram.com/ronin_metalworks?igshid=MmIzYWVlNDQ5Yg==
Current state: (also, don’t mind the frame. It was hacked off without any sort of precision, just so it wasn’t in the way of the body. New frame rails/extension are already made)
I chopped my 80 a year ago and it’s been sitting in my garage idle, up until a month ago. Took some time off work to get it completed.
Lots of hate from the idea but I’m building the rig for my own personal enjoyment and seeing how far my skills can take me.
You guys can follow along on my IG:
Jameson (@ronin_metalworks) • Instagram photos and videos - https://instagram.com/ronin_metalworks?igshid=MmIzYWVlNDQ5Yg==
Current state: (also, don’t mind the frame. It was hacked off without any sort of precision, just so it wasn’t in the way of the body. New frame rails/extension are already made)
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I think 60 and 80 series 'ute chops' became almost a necessity for cashed-up farmers in the day because we didn't have access to a large-ish comfortable ute with a second row of seats. We had 75 series, but no 79 dual cabs.
Nowadays it's probably more down to price as you can chop/extend/dual-axle a used Landcruiser wagon for less than a new 79 series. But I still don't see the point of a chop unless you retain the second row seating, and stretch the chassis to give a full length cargo bed.
Nowadays it's probably more down to price as you can chop/extend/dual-axle a used Landcruiser wagon for less than a new 79 series. But I still don't see the point of a chop unless you retain the second row seating, and stretch the chassis to give a full length cargo bed.
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NEXT UTE CHOP --- 6 x 6 in the works.
J
J
must be the photo but that grinder on the bench looks like it's spinning
lumbee1
Native American
I did a quick photoshop of what my Cruiser would look like extended with a cargo box.
I LOVE it but also realize that this would be crazy expensive and probably not worth it in the end.
I LOVE it but also realize that this would be crazy expensive and probably not worth it in the end.
Looks sick though. Make it your next cruiser project.I did a quick photoshop of what my Cruiser would look like extended with a cargo box.
View attachment 3360506
I LOVE it but also realize that this would be crazy expensive and probably not worth it in the end.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
...and your point is?I did a quick photoshop of what my Cruiser would look like extended with a cargo box.
View attachment 3360506
I LOVE it but also realize that this would be crazy expensive and probably not worth it in the end.
lumbee1
Native American
- Thread starter
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Only trouble with the 79's is the excessively high prices - even a basic one is over A$100k to buy new with just a few basic factory accessories added and the wait time for delivery is still around 18 months for one not already on the lot.
I suppose 80's were very expensive to buy in their era as well.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Awesome.
Would love to see one of these done with longer upper and lower links and longer radius arms
You're nuts
Looking great! Here is the one I’m building. I have a 148” wheelbase with a 6.5’ flatbed and 40’s. If you need frame rail I used 1/8” 6x3 A500 structural tube and it grafted on nicely right where the transmission crossmember bolts to.
@RoninMetal did you make that rear wall/bulkhead, or is that a kit?
I'm loving all the US Utes.
I'm loving all the US Utes.
I chopped my 4runner last year after it got rolled. I kinda miss having a truck with an ass sometimes but the assless life is the way for me . not having to worry about body damage in the rear is super nice.
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I'll be using the 80 upper coil buckets and shock mounts, but will be a triangulated 4 link on each axle. Will be ditching the rear track bars as well.
Lowers and uppers will be stretched a bit. I'd like to get another 150 to 200mm in length. Uppers and lowers-- 50mm x 8mm wall DOM tubing. More than likely run Johnny Joints on all ends as well.
Radius arms are being made now and longer than stock, but only 25mm extra. Will be running a high steer with my pinned knuckles.
Jason
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Is there room to package all that with tires space the way you have then mocked up in that pic?
Will the rear axle be driven? Would love to see how you achieve that.
I spent ages look at 6x6 conversions a few years back.
they seem to suffer from poor flex in the rear, severe rear steer when the rear bogie is flexed, or can't achieve both flex and reliable drive shaft set up to the rear axle.
I came to the conclusion they are great if you need a heavy load carrying capability of road, but not much good for recreational wheeling. Great camper base though.
If the rear axles are both locked, they will drive the truck forward in a straight line. And they have terrible turning circles.
Cool AF though
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Is there room to package all that with tires space the way you have then mocked up in that pic?
Will the rear axle be driven? Would love to see how you achieve that.
I spent ages look at 6x6 conversions a few years back.
they seem to suffer from poor flex in the rear, severe rear steer when the rear bogie is flexed, or can't achieve both flex and reliable drive shaft set up to the rear axle.
I came to the conclusion they are great if you need a heavy load carrying capability of road, but not much good for recreational wheeling. Great camper base though.
If the rear axles are both locked, they will drive the truck forward in a straight line. And they have terrible turning circles.
Cool AF though
Both rear axles are driven. Making a passthrough pinion setup.
Rear back axle is E-Locked
Front back axle is Tru-Trac posi to allow for slight slip and allow for straighter driving and easier on the differential. Front back axle is a Ford 9" with a 35 spline pinion and axles alike. 300M material. Ring and pinion is custom made and just under 10".
4.10 gears
With the triangulated set up and longer arms I should get a bit more flex than most have in the past. Will have 15" of shock piston travel
Most of my builds are for overlanding. My rock crawl days are few and far between anymore.
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mudgudgeon
Resident galah
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
@TRAIL TAILOR sounds good man.
It's along the lines of what I was day dreaming of a few years back l. 4 linked rears, long radius arm front, extended wheel base, auxiliary transmission. Dual cab 6x6.
Most 6x6 use some variation of load sharing springs/bogie axles like a heavy truck.
I think with independently 4 linked axles you can potentially see some crazy driveline angles between rear diffs.
Situations like ramping over a mound or ledge, or dropping into a creek or washout you can have a situation where one rear axle is fully stuffed, the other in full droop. With 15" shock travel, vertical relationship between pinions at the back can change by 15"
Add some articulation and rear steer from independent 4 links that are articulated in opposite directions, I think you need some stout CV joints with a high range of drive line angle, and a long slip yolk.
I used to have a collection of videos and photos of various 6x6 in action. There's some interesting variations.
The ramp over thing brings them undone in a few ways. You can have a situation where you have no load, no traction on one rear axle (both tires). The tru-trac posi might be an Achilles heel in some scenarios.
There was an Aussie 6x6 conversion company that advertised a large amount of rear suspension travel, but if you looked closely all their pics highlighting suspension travel, trucks had no rear (diff-diff) driveshaft installed
It's along the lines of what I was day dreaming of a few years back l. 4 linked rears, long radius arm front, extended wheel base, auxiliary transmission. Dual cab 6x6.
Most 6x6 use some variation of load sharing springs/bogie axles like a heavy truck.
I think with independently 4 linked axles you can potentially see some crazy driveline angles between rear diffs.
Situations like ramping over a mound or ledge, or dropping into a creek or washout you can have a situation where one rear axle is fully stuffed, the other in full droop. With 15" shock travel, vertical relationship between pinions at the back can change by 15"
Add some articulation and rear steer from independent 4 links that are articulated in opposite directions, I think you need some stout CV joints with a high range of drive line angle, and a long slip yolk.
I used to have a collection of videos and photos of various 6x6 in action. There's some interesting variations.
The ramp over thing brings them undone in a few ways. You can have a situation where you have no load, no traction on one rear axle (both tires). The tru-trac posi might be an Achilles heel in some scenarios.
There was an Aussie 6x6 conversion company that advertised a large amount of rear suspension travel, but if you looked closely all their pics highlighting suspension travel, trucks had no rear (diff-diff) driveshaft installed
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