80 series turbo blown? (1 Viewer)

[Bonsnz80]

Hey guys,

Hoping you can help, I have a 1996
Land cruiser 80 series 24 valve. I've owned it for about a year now, when i purchased it it had high egts, puffed a lot of soot and was at 16psi boost but it had pretty solid power.
However, recently I've turned down the fuel and its egts are still pretty high and it struggles a lot up hills (slowing down but foot flat) its still boosting 16psi. The worst part about all this is it keeps getting slower.

When i say its slow 3L hilux surfs are pulling on it.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Are all the basics ok?

Clean air filter?
Clean fuel?
Clean fuel filter?
How many kilometres?
How recent was timing bent changed?

What EGTs are you seeing?
If you keep your foot buried in it, what's the EGTs peak at?

Is the EGT probe in the manifold? Or after the turbo?

Stock turbo?
Stock exhaust?

Describe when you see smoke?

 

[Bonsnz80]

Are all the basics ok?

Clean air filter?
Clean fuel?
Clean fuel filter?
How many kilometres?
How recent was timing bent changed?

What EGTs are you seeing?
If you keep your foot buried in it, what's the EGTs peak at?

Is the EGT probe in the manifold? Or after the turbo?

Stock turbo?
Stock exhaust?

Describe when you see smoke?

Timing belt hasn't been changed in my ownership so that could be it but the air filter and fuel filter are both clean,

Egts are after the turbo and peak at 650c

Kms are 345,000

3 stainless stripe exhaust however still on stock turbo, turbo definitely makes a bit more noise than it used to (could be bearings)

Smoke is if it gets revved after being on idle for a while. It will puff soot then make like a pop with white smoke (sounds almost like a hardcut)

 

[mudgudgeon]

A few things to look at

EGT probe after turbo is useless and gives a very deceptive/false reading
Your 650c after turbo could be anything from 650-900 measured in the manifold where it matters.
There's a big temperature variable across the turbo that is not constant. EGT probe is easy to install after turbo, but is really not the best. If 650⁰c was the highest EGT you were seeing measured BEFORE the turbo, I'd say fueling is OK. Measured AFTER turbo, could be borderline "cook the engine" too high. But, it's a guess at best.

Stock turbo.
At 16psi, you're pushing the friendship with the stock turbo. After 15psi, all bets are off! It's working outside its efficient range. It will be heating the intake air A LOT. And, they can self destruct ( BTDT) you're losing the compressor beyond what the material is designed for.

Noisy turbo
If the turbo had gotten noisier than normal, or is howling/whining at all, it's a plea for help. Stop driving it. Check the turbo compressor wheel for play. If bearings are worn, and the compressor touches the housing, your engine will be eating turbo fins for supper.
Start looking at replacement or rebuild options NOW! STOP DRIVING IT.
You're on a path to destruction ( BTDT)

Smoke
If it blows blue smoking after a blip of the throttle after idling for a while, it's most likely got leaky valve stem seals. A simple test for this is to coast down a long downhill grade (in gear), as you get on the throttle again after the road flattens out, is there a puff of blue-ish smoke? Blue smoke here suggests valve stem seals are on the way out.

If you're tuned correctly, you'll typically see a puff of black smoke when you come off idle. Example, with the car stationary, if you stab the throttle 2/3 of the way to the floor and release (1-2 seconds) you should see a puff of black sooty smoke, that clears up as revs come up, and turbo boosts a bit ( not blue smoke, not white smoke)

White smoke & hard cut
A puff of white smoke and the hard cut you describe, with almost 110% certainty says you have air getting sucked into the fuel system.
This could be a hard & loose or cracked rubber fuel hose connection that sucks in air without leaking fuel. Could be a badly fitted oring on fuel filter, or could be a leaking priming pump assembly. All very common.
The fuel system is under vacuum all the way to the infection pump. A small crack in a fuel line can suck air.

Do a search in Diesel Tech / 24 volts - https://forum.ih8mud.com/forums/diesel-tech-24-volts.24/ for "air in fuel" "clear pvc" " stumble" etc.

Air in the fuel messes up the fuel injection timing. The air compress in the injection libes, and delays the injector from crackingbopen when it should.
You'll be down on power, use excess fuel, feel it running rough on acceleration, and see stinky white smoke out the back.
The smoke will stink of raw diesel, because the diesel is being injected at the wrong time, and isn't being burnt effectively.

 

[John berto]

Hey guys,

Hoping you can help, I have a 1996
Land cruiser 80 series 24 valve. I've owned it for about a year now, when i purchased it it had high egts, puffed a lot of soot and was at 16psi boost but it had pretty solid power.
However, recently I've turned down the fuel and its egts are still pretty high and it struggles a lot up hills (slowing down but foot flat) its still boosting 16psi. The worst part about all this is it keeps getting slower.

When i say its slow 3L hilux surfs are pulling on it.

Gday guys woundering if u guys could tell me why the boost very slow ... I'm running 14 psi and never reach there only going 100kmh and only then I'm hitting 12psi





I only get full spool at 3 and a bit grand of revs which is to high... egt is at a good temp of about 420 degrees ish when on the high way



I thought the wastage was loose and leaking checked that and its fine and the turbo sucks real well just can't put my finger on it



In 1st gear I just hit 4 psi at 2500rpm 2nd gear 7 psi same revs 3rd gear 10 psi at 3000rpm 4th 13psi with 3000 rpm



The 1hz done about 470 000 km so a fair bit if anyone could help be much appreciated

It could be as simple as needing more

 

[mudgudgeon]

Gday guys woundering if u guys could tell me why the boost very slow ... I'm running 14 psi and never reach there only going 100kmh and only then I'm hitting 12psi





I only get full spool at 3 and a bit grand of revs which is to high... egt is at a good temp of about 420 degrees ish when on the high way



I thought the wastage was loose and leaking checked that and its fine and the turbo sucks real well just can't put my finger on it



In 1st gear I just hit 4 psi at 2500rpm 2nd gear 7 psi same revs 3rd gear 10 psi at 3000rpm 4th 13psi with 3000 rpm



The 1hz done about 470 000 km so a fair bit if anyone could help be much appreciated

It could be as simple as needing more

Do you know what turbo it has on it?

Is the EGT probe in the manifold before the turbo? Or in the dump pipe?

420⁰C for EGTs? Sounds low, but more info is needed.
Is that the highest you see it? Life if you held your foot flat to the floor up a long steep hill, does it go higher?

 

[John berto]

The turbo is a mamba 12-6 billet 16 g
I installed the egt probe in the dump pipe right after the turbo
And yes the egts have reached almost 500c but that's really pushing it

 

[John berto]

The turbo is a mamba 12-6 billet 16 g
I installed the egt probe in the dump pipe right after the turbo
And yes the egts have reached almost 500c but that's really pushing it

Infact it has hit 500 before ...
I dont know might be as simple as needing more fuel

 

[mudgudgeon]

Do some reading in the diesel tech section of the forum.

Having the probe in the dump pipe is unreliable. Far better to have it before the turbo.
Temperature can fluctuate as gases pass through the turbo by sevetal hundred degrees. The fluctuation rate changes all the time.
This means you are guessing on what the actual EGT of gases leaving the cylinders actually is.

Heat in the combustion process and in the head is what will kill a 1hz. If you are seeing 500⁰c after turbo, that could be 700⁰c or more pre turbo. Really need to know a true temperature.

More fuel in a diesel produces more heat, which drives the turbo. To much heat will kill the 1hz fast.

Is 500⁰c actually the maximum?
If you find a long step hill, push it hard from low rom 3rd gear, flat to the floor into 4th, flat to the floor hold it until you are close to Redline.
The maximum temperature in a high engine load situation is what dictates what needs to be done with tuning

 

[John berto]

Do some reading in the diesel tech section of the forum.

Having the probe in the dump pipe is unreliable. Far better to have it before the turbo.
Temperature can fluctuate as gases pass through the turbo by sevetal hundred degrees. The fluctuation rate changes all the time.
This means you are guessing on what the actual EGT of gases leaving the cylinders actually is.

Heat in the combustion process and in the head is what will kill a 1hz. If you are seeing 500⁰c after turbo, that could be 700⁰c or more pre turbo. Really need to know a true temperature.

More fuel in a diesel produces more heat, which drives the turbo. To much heat will kill the 1hz fast.

Is 500⁰c actually the maximum?
If you find a long step hill, push it hard from low rom 3rd gear, flat to the floor into 4th, flat to the floor hold it until you are close to Redline.
The maximum temperature in a high engine load situation is what dictates what needs to be done with tuning

Yer ok ... well I have no intercooler either and no hills for me to try that out, just a little frustrating after installing it and not getting the performance I wanted

 

[mudgudgeon]

Yer ok ... well I have no intercooler either and no hills for me to try that out, just a little frustrating after installing it and not getting the performance I wanted

Intercooler is nice but shouldn't be necessary below 14psi boost

 

[AussieHJCruza]

The turbo is a mamba 12-6 billet 16 g
I installed the egt probe in the dump pipe right after the turbo
And yes the egts have reached almost 500c but that's really pushing it

What exhaust wheel does it have on it? Most mamba/kinugawa I've seen have been slower than they should be to spool, not helped by the fact they often have 9 blade turbines which are good for a petrol that revs to 7k rpm but not so much for a diesel.

 

[John berto]

What exhaust wheel does it have on it? Most mamba/kinugawa I've seen have been slower than they should be to spool, not helped by the fact they often have 9 blade turbines which are good for a petrol that revs to 7k rpm but not so much for a diesel.

The eqaust side has 12 blades

 

[John berto]

The eqaust side has 12 blades

Exhaust *