80 Series Engine Swap Options

[scrowley]

Uuuh....nooooo. The most bang for your buck is a Cummins 5.9 12v 6BT. The MPG's pay for the conversion, don't you know!!??

Nice! Sounds great. my dream power plant. You need some rocks dumped off on your trail.... never seen woods like that with not one rock.

 

[jfz80]

I think the $1500 investment to rebuild a 1fz-fe on the side is pretty optimistic. Not impossible, but optimistic.

full gasket kit, full bearing kit, machine work, pistons, rings, etc. Stuff adds up fast. And this is assuming you do all of the wrenching on your own, having the machine shop just do machine shop specialty stuff. If you paid a machine shop to rebuild it, you'd be in at least $3000.

Yup. Why i specifically used the term refurbish and it was really to provide an example of budget spectrum since no information was provided to go on.

Agreed a rebuild is going to be closer 3-4k but I was at least trying to be real and offer some tech advice ; not the craziest off the wall swap I could fantasize or an ill attempt at Internet humor.

 

[cnorm5623]

I just swapped in the 6bt Cummins. With the kit from dieseladapters.com it was pretty easy. If you can get a hold of him that is.

 

[Duiser Offroad]

What's the last year of that motor?

The 6BT in the predator is a 5.9 12v VE pump and was made between 1989-1993. You can also get a 12v P Pump and they were made between 1994-1997. We like them both for various reasons but, prefer the VE pump because of its distinct sound, engine, turbo and all. Someone no doubt will mention the all mighty and powerful "P Pump" as the better choice but you can get more power than you want from both so it doesn't matter.

We prefer the 12v to the 24v because the 24v is extremely noisy. If someone associates dodge diesels with noisy, they have been around a 24v.

 

[Duiser Offroad]

Nice! Sounds great. my dream power plant. You need some rocks dumped off on your trail.... never seen woods like that with not one rock.

Yep, no rocks around here. Just trees and stumps!

 

[Bravo1782]

View attachment 956455 L98 6.o litre

SWEET JESUS! That's beautiful! How much did that cost you? Or did you DIY?

Swap in a 453-t, don't be a pansy.

I wish! lol

I feel like the Cummins diesel swap would be suuuuuper cool....the engines are super easy to track down, I just don't know about doing it as a DIY. I live in Iowa, so to hell with emissions!

But, on the other hand, if I stick with the stock motor (1FZ-FE) parts will be super easy to track down, readily available, no major fabrication, everything will bolt up. I want to use this as a long range adventure\expedition rig, so I like the idea of parts being easy to obtain, should there ever be an issue on the road.

Of course, there's always Gas V-8 Options....

Decisions, Decisions! All this info is super helpful! Keep it coming!

 

[maxamillion2345]

The 6BT in the predator is a 5.9 12v VE pump and was made between 1989-1993. You can also get a 12v P Pump and they were made between 1994-1997. We like them both for various reasons but, prefer the VE pump because of its distinct sound, engine, turbo and all. Someone no doubt will mention the all mighty and powerful "P Pump" as the better choice but you can get more power than you want from both so it doesn't matter.

We prefer the 12v to the 24v because the 24v is extremely noisy. If someone associates dodge diesels with noisy, they have been around a 24v.

I agree on the noise levels. 24v idle is damn near obnoxious and I'm a bit of a diesel enthusiast. 12 is just right. 1st vs 2nd gen 12 valve though... 2nd -- for more reasons than power. Though I have an intercooled ve pump in mine.

 

[half k cruiser]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/my-head-gasket-engine-rebuild-cost-breakdown.820707/ there's a pretty good cost estimate for you if you wanted to refresh that motor. I thought the price was pretty respectable and the motor has been running fantastic for over 3,000 miles. Doesn't eat any oil like it used too. In fact I'm trying to decide what I want to do with my 97 before CO next year. The lack of power and economy is bugging me a lot. It has occurred to me that a diesel would solve a lot of those issues but I'm not sure I have the fab skills to make this doable. On the other hand I could turbo and at least have more power to go with my lack of fuel economy. If I decide to go this route I will probably pull that motor and reseal it.

 

[Timpanogos Slim]

I don't wheel my '94 but i don't feel like it lacks power. I do feel like it lacks economy. It can't jackrabbit start like my GTI does, but the GTI weighs half as much and has more horsepower and almost as much torque. Yeah from an engine less than half the size. I have no trouble keeping up on the freeway here in the leadfoot state of utah, tho.

A turbocharged engine should be more efficient when you keep your foot out of it - but we don't see the turbo guys talking about fuel economy.

If i go to the trouble of a swap it'll be diesel. Leaning toward the 4BD1T like wheelingnoob is doing but if a really good deal on a cummins came around when i had money i wouldn't be able to turn it down.

I rebuilt a VW 1.6D this summer and while i only spent about $450 at the machine shop, costs do spiral way out of control on a build unless you just don't care if things are half or third assed.

 

[maxamillion2345]

You have to know what you can get away with... ^

 

[Booger weldz]

The 6BT in the predator is a 5.9 12v VE pump and was made between 1989-1993. You can also get a 12v P Pump and they were made between 1994-1997. We like them both for various reasons but, prefer the VE pump because of its distinct sound, engine, turbo and all. Someone no doubt will mention the all mighty and powerful "P Pump" as the better choice but you can get more power than you want from both so it doesn't matter.

We prefer the 12v to the 24v because the 24v is extremely noisy. If someone associates dodge diesels with noisy, they have been around a 24v.

CA swaps are fine then. Binksfab is a mile from the ref and vw TDI swapping TJs of the same or newer year engine.

 

[Duiser Offroad]

CA swaps are fine then. Binksfab is a mile from the ref and vw TDI swapping TJs of the same or newer year engine.

Sure, its all rather debatable. Who you get at the counter determines your fate, IMO. But what you do with your truck after we are done with it, is your business. We certainly aren't turning business down if you live in CA.

 

[asheville]

I am doing a Isuzu swap into my 91 fj80, but if I had to make a swap work in Cali, I would do a mercedes om606 from a 1998-1999 e300. It is from a newer year with less gvw and is still pretty hot. I had one and it was a really fast, efficient turbodiesel, even in a big car. I doubt that the back of it looks like the om617 that 4x4labs makes an adapter for, so you will be on the hook to mate it to the toyota trans. A standalone harness for these would be hard as they are really integrated, but I am sure someone has done it.

 

[NCFJ]

OK, this is not a sales pitch, just some straight up information. GM LSX series motors (LS and Vortec variants) swapped into a Land Cruiser is either the best bang for your buck across the board, or a close second. It can be done in your own garage or the various shops performing the swap. This particular power package offers far more than just killer HP and torque increases. This swap benefits the average LC owner that is not an engine guy but can handle basic mechanical maintenance. Value for product and long term costs and serviceability are the prime factors, or should be for the average owner, as are reliability and longevity.

Example 04 GM 5,3L Vortec

You can buy them anywhere, salvage yards are in touch with their value but still relatively cheap
They make your LC go like a GM Tahoe, Silverado etc, Upgrading stopping is also a good idea.
You can build the entire motor out of an Advanced Auto
There is a guy in every town down the road that knows how to work on them
You can hook up a computer (scanner) and it will point you pretty close to what is going on with your motor
They are fleet motors that report 300-500K miles on oil changes and spark plugs
The aftermarket for these motors is incredible
Slightly better gas millage, after you grow accustomed to the hugely different power curve
Almost all GM auto and manual boxes will bolt up to it if made after , don't quote me, 1953, will bolt up to it, may not get an adapter Not all will support
clearing the trans pan with the front shaft. Built 4L65E and NV4500 are the most popular.
This motor series is still in production and maintains the same motor mount arrangement and bell housing pattern and there is no notice from GM of moving away from this platform. This means that in 20 years you can still get a motor that is an even swap, just different electronics package.

All this is based on a scenerio that gas is still available and we are not all standing behind Micky Dees bidding for a gallon of fryer oil

Food for thought and just this guy's opinion

 

[SeaDevil]

Sure, its all rather debatable. Who you get at the counter determines your fate, IMO. But what you do with your truck after we are done with it, is your business. We certainly aren't turning business down if you live in CA.

I don't know if I want to take a $25000 gamble on who is at the counter

 

[DudeAbides]

The VW diesels can pass because they're out of a car. If the cummins was available in the 1500 series trucks it would be legal to swap in CA too...I think.

 

[ALX4X4]

SWEET JESUS! That's beautiful! How much did that cost you? Or did you DIY?

Ummm lots..... 20K. Was it worth it - %^&$ yeah ! Australia means it has to pass noise test, emisions test, brake and swerve test to get that little blue plate on the dash. It goes like stink 5,000 rpm in 3rd has me reaching for the brakes........ Plus it sounds awesome thant s to the headers and 3" pipe.

 

[TioChachie]

The 80 series diesels from abroad are hitting the 25 year mark and good to import starting next year. You said you would like to keep it Toyota, and here is a diesel to boot. For the price of an engine swap you could just get an import and then you have 2 80s and if one of them craps out, you have a parts rig and ride in your other one, swapping parts/mods to make one killer rig to rule them all with all the spares you will ever need!

 

[scottryana]

No a turbo is only more efficient if the engine is built that way to begin with.

For example the new F150s have both a 2.7L and a 3.5L turbo ecoboost engine. This gives them an advantage to report higher mileage than say their 5.0 or 6.2L because during the EPA mpg test they don't have to be under boost so you have a smaller engine out of boost you will see better mileage. But when really leaned on and under boost the power will be comparable.

If you have the exact same engine before and after turbo, there is no possible way that the post turbo motor will get better mileage.

The 1fz-fe under closed loop will try and be 14.7:1 might richen up under full throttle open loop.

But when properly tuned a 1fz might see:

14.7:1 - 22-10mmHg
13:1 - 10-0mmHg
12.5:1 - 0-4psi
12:1 - 4-8psi
11.5:1 - 9psi+

So you can see unless you stay under high vacuum you won't stay at the stoic ratio that the 1fz tries to maintain while NA. And the truck is too big and heavy to stay below 10mmHg, when cruising at highway speeds you are above that.

I don't wheel my '94 but i don't feel like it lacks power. I do feel like it lacks economy. It can't jackrabbit start like my GTI does, but the GTI weighs half as much and has more horsepower and almost as much torque. Yeah from an engine less than half the size. I have no trouble keeping up on the freeway here in the leadfoot state of utah, tho.

A turbocharged engine should be more efficient when you keep your foot out of it - but we don't see the turbo guys talking about fuel economy.

If i go to the trouble of a swap it'll be diesel. Leaning toward the 4BD1T like wheelingnoob is doing but if a really good deal on a cummins came around when i had money i wouldn't be able to turn it down.

I rebuilt a VW 1.6D this summer and while i only spent about $450 at the machine shop, costs do spiral way out of control on a build unless you just don't care if things are half or third assed.

 

[Duiser Offroad]

SWEET JESUS! That's beautiful! How much did that cost you? Or did you DIY?



I wish! lol

I feel like the Cummins diesel swap would be suuuuuper cool....the engines are super easy to track down, I just don't know about doing it as a DIY. I live in Iowa, so to hell with emissions!

But, on the other hand, if I stick with the stock motor (1FZ-FE) parts will be super easy to track down, readily available, no major fabrication, everything will bolt up. I want to use this as a long range adventure\expedition rig, so I like the idea of parts being easy to obtain, should there ever be an issue on the road.

Of course, there's always Gas V-8 Options....

Decisions, Decisions! All this info is super helpful! Keep it coming!

DIY, yeah its not for everyone. I'm not sure that a gas V8 makes it any easier to DIY though???

Parts availability makes no difference, a good swap limits the use of unusual, hard to find and prone to failure parts. Things break and wear out one way or another and the end user must replace or repair them.

When you look at our conversions, the manual transmission ones, there is less going on, and less to fail than stock, the parts we use are off the shelf. The only custom pieces are things like motor mounts, transmission cross members etc. Nothing funky.