Yeah. The mesh does a great job of keeping them in after having the lights on prepping dinner and such. ;D
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Looks really really good! And likely added a zero or two to the end of the price 
but of course we all want one...
Where does this get its source power from? Run a wire to the D pillar or other? The inverter extension cord looks like it is meant to stay in teh cargo area, is it too short to reach the front seat area, but it may just be camera angles.
but of course we all want one...Where does this get its source power from? Run a wire to the D pillar or other? The inverter extension cord looks like it is meant to stay in teh cargo area, is it too short to reach the front seat area, but it may just be camera angles.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #263
Looks really really good! And likely added a zero or two to the end of the price
Where does this get its source power from? Run a wire to the D pillar or other? The inverter extension cord looks like it is meant to stay in teh cargo area, is it too short to reach the front seat area, but it may just be camera angles.
In the photo the PowerPanel gets its power from the Solar Charge Controller. Those not running solar will need to run a single wire to the battery or power distribution point.
Those running both will just wire both in together. I'll work out the details.
The flush mount extension cord is only 6ft long and meant for reaching behind the D-Pillar Mount, behind the cargo panel or under the side wing of drawers. I could make longer so long as I can locate the appropriate cable.
This may be backwoods hacking, but isn't it just a 12-14 gauge extension cord with the female end cut off to connect to the panel outlet?
Here is a little more detail for what I was thinking. I don't know of a single source for this but I think assembly would be fairly easy.
Take your light as shown but provide a cord long enough to reach around the vehicle and a magnet with a boot on it (or another covering to protect paint, plasti-dip maybe?). A magnet with a threaded stud and a wing nut or a magnet with a threaded hole and a thumb screw would be easy to disconnect, even in the limited space of the light frame, and would allow you to securely mount the light to the D-pillar panel when not using it as a work light if you prefer to have a fixed connection instead of the magnet. I would lean toward the thumb screw and would put a matching threaded hole in the panel to just secure the light using that same screw. Alternately if someone decided to source a round bodied light (example only, very cheap), then a magnet with a clip on it could be used instead of the threaded magnet and be even faster to remove.
For cable management, use a small quick fist or other type of hook on the panel to coil the cable and hang it from the panel. I personally would use two so that the cable can't swing around and be obnoxious. If there is enough space behind or on the panel a spring return cord reel could be used but I haven't seen one of those that I would consider reliable, it would look cleaner though if it could be hidden. Another way would be an "extension cord" method where the long cord is actually just an extension. Keep the light as shown but have a long extension available that could be removed and packed somewhere else when not needed, as you mention, a different type of connector would be needed. Adding multiple sockets around the vehicle would increase flexibility and reduce the required cord length but not everyone would want to do that.
You could supply something like this, then any length cord could be used easily.
PROFESSIONAL MARINER Universal AC Plug Holder | West Marine
PROFESSIONAL MARINER Universal AC Plug Holder | West Marine
Here as a result of your WE newsletter. Yes, officially interested! And the power panel as depicted looks fantastic!
DominicanFZJ80
Getting there...
View attachment 1191107 View attachment 1191108 Ok I might have been working on something else too.
Since this mount would be utilizing the upper 3rd row seat belt bolt I didn't really like losing the ability to utilize that bolt since it's probably the strongest points inside the vehicle.
So I will be supplying longer 10.9 hardware and then I'm making a bunch of these anchors in 30* and 90* that will use that bolt hole and be actually useful.
Looking forward to purchasing some of these! What's the status...?
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #274
I am actually reconsidering whether or not I will be making these. Here is the process as it stands:
• Laser cut
• Machine all edges to give a radius
• CNC bend
• Laser engrave (multiple pass)
• Tumble
• Heat treat (if I decide to go that path)
• Plating (likely zinc)
My cost is already nearly 7x the cost of the off the shelf Chinese made ones listed earlier in this thread. I have a feeling only a handful of folks would bother so I dont think its a wise business decision to make these. My mind could always change (and it does a lot) but thats how its looking right now. I'd love to hear feedback though.
DominicanFZJ80
Getting there...
I'm a fan of supporting small business. Typically quality is higher, along with attention to detail; that and the satisfaction of supporting a member is worth the cost. However I am but a single potential buyer; in addition if you estimate only a hand full of people would be willing to purchase, by all means table this idea and go full steam ahead on the power panel! I'll be in line for that one as well!
The small anchor looks like a nice piece, but can it be made from the correct thickness angle stock and maybe just machined out? So one machining operation takes the first 3 steps. May not save any cost though, I'm out of touch with that aspect of it. Could it be re-purposed to do something else such as roof rack mounts or rear hatch / hood mounts (it may be too thick to fit through the slots there)?
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #278
No it needs to be flat first in order to radius the edges properly. Most of what you see, including the off the shelf example, are all stamped. The stamp itself has the radius along with the cutter. So the stamping process itself cuts and presses the radius. Then a second process to give you the correct angle. But, those dies are incredibly expensive to make and unless I was making 1000s, definitely not worth the cost. I will re-evaluate though. I haven't totally shelved the idea.
View attachment 1191107 View attachment 1191108 Ok I might have been working on something else too.
Since this mount would be utilizing the upper 3rd row seat belt bolt I didn't really like losing the ability to utilize that bolt since it's probably the strongest points inside the vehicle.
So I will be supplying longer 10.9 hardware and then I'm making a bunch of these anchors in 30* and 90* that will use that bolt hole and be actually useful.
Digging those anchors! Hope they come to production; seems like good latching points for a hammock inside the cruiser. One corner, the third row belt and opposite corner the front belt........
Cheers,
Salue
Similar threads
