80 series brake lines - can i buy them? or how do i proceed?

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Joined
Feb 9, 2013
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3
Messages
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Location
North Jersey
Hello,
Brake pedal to the floor this morning. i found a leak in a line under the rusty truck. and now seem to realize that i can not just go buy new lines and throw them in. i need the long ones. 44 and 53. where do i find them? or how do i fix this if i cant but new?

Many thanks
Vince the Novice

1996 landcruiser - with abs

Screen Shot 2019-09-08 at 2.02.40 PM.png
 
If you remove your LSPV and ABS you only need to run 1.

You'll need to buy generic (specify length) from the auto part store and bend yourself most likely. Get the brake line bender tool, it helps a lot.

Or what he said ^^
 
I forget where but you can also buy a large spool of the hard brake line. You can also get the flaring tools as well.
 
Just buy a 25' length of copper-nickel 3/16" brake tubing, bend it to shape (no need for a tool, it bends like butter by hands).
Buy a few 10x1mm flare nuts and a flaring tool (can rent one at autozone or similar). Can make the line yourself in this manner in half an hour.
 
Now you know how to do it when the next one rusts out, lol. :(
 
Thanks to all! this turned out to be fairly simple fix! Thanks forum contributors!
I have to do this repair myself. I have the factory lines, but the rust on the clamps is bad (hard to get at with tank in place). How difficult was it to drop the tank? or were you able to do it with the tank in place?
 
Old thread but wondering the same thing here @goddahooch @bigredmachine @79F250


as long as the tank straps arnt too crusty its a pretty easy job. access the top of the tank by pulling out the carpet in the back to unplug the harness and disconnect the fuel line. disconnect the fill line and evap lines from underneath, disconnect the drive shaft from the rear and just swing it out of the way then undo the straps and drop it. try to drain the tank as much as possible, it will make it that much easier and either have an extra set of hands or use a floor jack with some wood to help with lowering and raising.

now is the time to change the fill hose and vent lines while the tank is down, and get new crush washers for the banjo bolt for the fuel line
 
^x2

I have a rust free Charlotte, NC truck and my tank straps were rusted solid. There must have been some rust generator film on them from Japan. I had to use a sawzall to remove them. Do not push on the body to remove them; the body won't support its weight. Use the seatbelt anchors as lift points and an engine hoist to lift it, if you have to lift it to remove the strap bolts on the driver's side. The edges of the body are stout; the middle floor isn't. You can lift one side at at time, and then go around to the other.

If you plan to remove the tank, now is the time to replace your body mount bushings. It'll be easy to get to them, and it takes about five minutes per bushing. I'd skip the front two under the radiator, until you have to remove it for some other reason. The rearmost two in the corners are listed as discontinued, but they are listed for the diesel 80s; same bushings (no idea why). Or you can skip those too. The middle six bushings do most of the work you'll notice.

Now I have new straps without rust, and new tank tubes. I highly recommend this step when you're replacing your brake lines.
 
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Don't forget to drain the tank. There is 5 gals in there when the gauge is on empty.
 

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