80 series axle into a 60 (1 Viewer)

HemiAlex

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To those who have done this swap: @NookShneer and @Godwin I would like to go over a few things for reference.....

I’m making a list of the items to buy for the install and I’d like to get most of it done in advance.

-ruffstuff spring perches so I don’t have to cut up the outgoing 60 series housing for perches
-80 series parking brake cable 46410-60570
-rear hub stud upgrade (might as well, the 80 series guys advocate this.
-rear bias adjustment (wilwood valve or a new master) I’m truly not sure about this.
-front wheel spacers since I’m not doing the front brake upgrade right now.

I’ve already got the 16 inch 70 series wheels.

What else am I missing?
 
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Sounds like you are doing the rear axle. I recently did the front. Need: 80 pitman Arm, coil stops (rubber cone things), camber adjustment, brake lines (the location off the axle is different, so we moved it closer to stock) adjustable lanyard bar, obviously the shock and springs. Seems like I was ordering stuff daily.
 
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To those who have done this swap: @NookShneer and @Godwin I would like to go over a few things for reference.....

I’m making a list of the items to buy for the install and I’d like to get most of it done in advance.

-ruffstuff spring perches so I don’t have to cut up the outgoing 60 series housing for perches
-80 series parking brake cable 46410-60570
-rear hub stud upgrade (might as well, the 80 series guys advocate this.
-rear bias adjustment (wilwood valve or a new master) I’m truly not sure about this.
-front wheel spacers since I’m not doing the front brake upgrade right now.

I’ve already got the 16 inch 70 series wheels.

What else am I missing?

-Booster (potentially) Most recommend to keep the booster/MC combo matched. pre ABS 80 series is what most use. I’m running a Supra set-up because that was what was on close out on Rockauto.

-Brake line stuff. You’ll need to make new brake lines for the rear and for whatever brake proportioning valve you choose to run.

-Rebuilt parts for the 80 series rear.

-Tabs to attach the brake line retaining “hose clamps”

-Friend with a plasma cutter. grinding the 80 series stuff is a total bummer and time suck.

-mag angle finder to set the pinion angle.

That’s all I can think of. Other than me sucking at making new brake lines I’d not as big of a challenge as it seems.
 

Cruiserdrew

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I've done 2 of these and @NookShneer is right. It's actually pretty easy once all the brackets are cut off the 80 axle. With a good plasma, that took me most of a day.

You will need to grind those Ruff Stuff perches. They are really excellent, though but they will need some modification. But for beefy strength there are none better. They are thick though and I had to dial up the welding amperage to weld them on solid.

The pinion angle thing is easy. Stock is damn near -zero-. I agonized over this and measured dozens of times to come up with zero, at least if you are spring under. It's been since 2018 for me, but I think the t-case output is down 2 degrees, so the pinion is zero or up 1 degree to account for minor wrap under load.

Brake master is key. BMP-090 is the part number I used from Aisin. Works great and fits the stock booster. In an FJ60, you will need some female-female 10 x 1.0 inverse flare adapters. You need 2 of them since the stock brake lines I could not make fit. In an FJ 62, the brakes lines are close enough and can be used stock. These are available online or even at AutoZone. They are actually super useful and I bought extras and put them in the glove box to make a trail repair easier.

The 80 e-brake cable is a super easy trivial swap.

You will need to make brake lines for the hard line part of the swap on the rear axle. I used the CuNi tubing and line nuts and it's easy to work with and really nice material. Rust free until the end of time.

Up front, there are not great options. Spacers are the easy one, and that's what I did twice. It isn't elegant, but in a brute force sort of way it works OK. Better would be axle tube extensions and longer inner axles.

And I'd order some rear axle soft lines and banjo bolts/copper washers. You will need them and the newest yours will be is 23 years so replace while you're in it. Ditto for rear discs. Now is the time.
 
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I did see someone who used a drill press and hole saw to cut the perches to the 80 tube diameter and that looked like that would work out faster and with less grinding.
 

cruisermatt

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I did see someone who used a drill press and hole saw to cut the perches to the 80 tube diameter and that looked like that would work out faster and with less grinding.

That was me but it was to take a whole inch out of the perch for my SOA. The Ruffstuff perches barely need any grinding to fit out of the box. It's their U-bolts that don't fit at all, but @HemiAlex should be able to just re-use his since it sounds like he's not making a suspension change.

@HemiAlex either just leave the stock hub studs or go straight to 7/16" bolts, don't waste your money on the ARP M8 studs. I doubt you'll have an issue on the stock hardware though with how tame your 60 is
 

HemiAlex

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That was me but it was to take a whole inch out of the perch for my SOA. The Ruffstuff perches barely need any grinding to fit out of the box. It's their U-bolts that don't fit at all, but @HemiAlex should be able to just re-use his since it sounds like he's not making a suspension change.

@HemiAlex either just leave the stock hub studs or go straight to 7/16" bolts, don't waste your money on the ARP M8 studs. I doubt you'll have an issue on the stock hardware though with how tame your 60 is

That’s a good point. Most of the 80’s are running much bigger and heavier tires than the 255’s with more gear.

I may just leave the studs for a later date.
 

HemiAlex

TLCA #24987
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I've done 2 of these and @NookShneer is right. It's actually pretty easy once all the brackets are cut off the 80 axle. With a good plasma, that took me most of a day.

You will need to grind those Ruff Stuff perches. They are really excellent, though but they will need some modification. But for beefy strength there are none better. They are thick though and I had to dial up the welding amperage to weld them on solid.

The pinion angle thing is easy. Stock is damn near -zero-. I agonized over this and measured dozens of times to come up with zero, at least if you are spring under. It's been since 2018 for me, but I think the t-case output is down 2 degrees, so the pinion is zero or up 1 degree to account for minor wrap under load.

Brake master is key. BMP-090 is the part number I used from Aisin. Works great and fits the stock booster. In an FJ60, you will need some female-female 10 x 1.0 inverse flare adapters. You need 2 of them since the stock brake lines I could not make fit. In an FJ 62, the brakes lines are close enough and can be used stock. These are available online or even at AutoZone. They are actually super useful and I bought extras and put them in the glove box to make a trail repair easier.

The 80 e-brake cable is a super easy trivial swap.

You will need to make brake lines for the hard line part of the swap on the rear axle. I used the CuNi tubing and line nuts and it's easy to work with and really nice material. Rust free until the end of time.

Up front, there are not great options. Spacers are the easy one, and that's what I did twice. It isn't elegant, but in a brute force sort of way it works OK. Better would be axle tube extensions and longer inner axles.

And I'd order some rear axle soft lines and banjo bolts/copper washers. You will need them and the newest yours will be is 23 years so replace while you're in it. Ditto for rear discs. Now is the time.



Can I swap to the 80 series non abs master and booster with the stock 60 series front brakes and then go to a set of Tundra brakes later?

I'm most concerned about keeping the pedal good during the time after I've swapped the rear axle and I'm still running spacers up front with stock brakes.
 

HemiAlex

TLCA #24987
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Awesome. Mine still works fine but I was expecting to swap it all. Good news.
 

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