80 series AC compressors (5 Viewers)

[priffe]

Hello there folks

I bought a used compressor from ebay.de for my HDJ80 manufactured October 92 VIN 11TJ8007010627.You can spot it here to the left of my sweet running 1HDT
https://photos.app.goo.gl/G6poa8jkCgyc6dcx9

It was supposed to fit, but it was too long didn't match up.

Took the clutch off and noticed it was marked RAV4. ???

Marked 447300-1810, tells me it should come from a 3 litre Hilux or 90 series, but fittings are for LC80 and someone wrote RAV4 on it, so go figure.

Did some research, my resource guy told me about long and short nose compressors.
Short nose for 12 valve, long nose for 24 valve was his rule.
I believe they are called 10PA15x and 10PA17x respectively. They have the same mounts. What differs is the body length.
What I think is that they changed size when they switched from R12 to R134a, but that doesn't make total sense, as the 17 was used before and the 15 also later. Maybe someone knows?
So, if there are only two commonly used compressor bodies, then the main thing that varies is the pulley and the mounting plate on the top?
I took an Avensis AC compressor I had on the shelf to compare. You can see the difference, about a half inch. The top plates are easy to swap.

Now this compressor is stuck a bit, so I am buying a new one, a German made (I think) Dasis for 300 euros, also replacing the condensor and dryer.
AKS DASIS Compressor, air conditioning Denso (850571N) buy cheap online

Will be nice to have all new parts.

Could we perhaps also figure out which compressors will fit the gasoline engines?
There is a lot of confusion around this on the internet and various forums, and there is a good chance that ordering online for an 80 will give you the wrong compressor.

 

[Tools R Us]

The 1FZ takes a 10PA17C, the Denso number; 4711166.

 

[dirtyboots]

1HDT motor

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001UCEMZG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[flintknapper]

The 1FZ takes a 10PA17C, the Denso number; 4711166.

^^^^^ Correctamundo.

 

[ZeGerman]

I bought a 1989 LC compressor from rockauto and its a perfect fit. under $200 brand new denso unit. All you have to do is use your old top plate.

 

[priffe]

So you say
1HDT Denso 471-1433 short nose
1FZ 471-1166 long nose
and that gives a lot of hits on US sites like Autozone, Walmart, Amazon etc.
But no hits in Europe!
Anyone know why this is so?

In Europe less selection and higher prices. Here are the original parts numbers for AC compressors for LC80

prefix 88320

-60330 3F
-60340 1PZ, 1HZ, 1HDT
-60350 1HZ, 1HDT
-60360 1HZ
-60370 3F, 3FE
-60450 1FZF, 1FZFE 10PA17C
-60460 1FZF, 1FZFE
-60560 1PZ, 1HZ, 1HDT
-60580 1FZF, 1FZFE 10PA17C
-60590 1FZF, 1FZFE
-60600 1HZ
-60610 1HZ, 1HDT
-60630 1HZ, 1HDT, 1HDFT 10PA15L


HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING - COMPRESSOR for Toyota LAND CRUISER FZJ80L-GCMEKV ILLUST NO. 1 OF 2(9201- )FZJ80, General market, 1995/01 - 1998/01 | FZJ80 1FZFE VX MTM LHD, Part codes: 8832060330,8832060340,8832060350,8832060360,8832060370,8832060450,8832060460,8832060340,8832060350,8832060360,8832060450,8832060460,8832060560,8832060590,8832060600,8832060630,8832060610,8832060630,8832060610,8832060580

the 60450 60580 60630 being the ones I can order here from www.autodoc.de the major online parts dealer
so I guess those will substitute for the older models

 

[landcruiser3DP]

anyone mind helping me with the denso part number for a 97? is it the 4711166?
and is the toyota part #88320-60580?
seems it is 105dF here and mine may have bit the dust.

looks like $300?

A/C Compressor And Clutch 93-97 1FZ-FE [88320-60580-R, 88410-26110-R] - $299.00 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts

CruiserParts.net A/C Compressor And Clutch 93-97 1FZ-FE [88320-60580-R, 88410-26110-R] - A/C compressor and clutch for 1993-1997 1FZ-FE engine. LX450 and Land Cruiser.471-1166

shop.cruiserparts.net

 

[flintknapper]

Denso 471-1166 is correct for U.S. Market (R134a) systems for a 97 and certain others.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

Denso 471-1166 is correct for U.S. Market (R134a) systems for a 97 and certain others.

thanks a LOT.

 

[panamacruiser]

Gonna tell you what I know and what I have on my 1HD-T...PA15 is used in normal AC...17 is used in dual AC and fridge...also...first gen short neck, second gen long neck...mine is 95, so long neck...mine has dual AC (no fridge) so PA17...that about the 12 or 24 valves I have no clue...btw, I replaced mine with one out of a Hyundai Tucson, just changed top plate...it's been running good for the past 8 years, should say at this momment that I have owned my 80 for 16 years already...

 

[landcruiser3DP]

hi gents,
doing some legwork here. i am now thinking that there is too much refrigerant in the system (and it is over pressurized or something?) and it has been gradually getting worse as it gets hotter out here (for some reason?).
i did the diagnostic in the FSM but at IDLE SPEED and not at 1500 rpm and it appears to me the sight glass if full of coolant both during the test and after. which FSM seems to say is too much coolant i think.
thoughts? any AC or auto techs out there?
THANKS

 

[flintknapper]

OK, well.....we have answered your question as to which compressor would make a 'replacement'. Now I guess it's time to ask WHY you think you need to replace it, so you don't put the cart in front of the horse.

DON'T use the FSM and the sight-glass to diagnose your A/C system. It is mean't to be a rudimentary way to determine the refrigerant charge if you are way out in BFE and don't have a set of gauges.

There are a number of reasons why you might have poor cooling (I assume that is why you started the thread). ONLY by using a set of manifold gauges (hooked up to the high and low side) and comparing those readings with other known information can you assess the condition of your system.

If you can give us some background information....maybe we can help. Has the system been serviced recently (someone added refrigerant or otherwise done work on it)?

 

[landcruiser3DP]

thanks man. bit of a moving target over here. apologies.
i was in to a shop here in town that gets good customer feedback. they couldn’t have been nicer. competency i am not so sure about.
can i use the FSM /values/ for the gauges though? no work has been done by me on the AC. i’ve had it six months. slowly stopped cooling i guess.
i’m posting the report from the first shop but i think the question now is do i simply have these guys give me an actual value to compare to the book value?! and then if it is too high have them bleed off a 1/4 lb every ten minutes (or something) and see is the cold air kicks in?
obviously i am not quite sure on what questions to ask...
now in at precision auto care that has a dude that seems to know his s***. showed the guy at the desk the values and he couldn’t have been less interested. mechanic seems to want to know what the value is however.

 

[flintknapper]

Yes, you can use the FSM numbers as a 'guideline' (within the ambient temp window cited).

So....for 90-95°F ambient temp (taken 1' in front of condenser) you should have pressure readings of about 30-35psi on the low side and 200-225psi for the high side. It will be higher if the temperature is higher.

Whoever wrote the Service Report either did not understand what the technician had told them....or the technician doesn't know what they are doing....or is a poor communicator.

There basically is nothing in that report that is useful.

First....the tech could not determine (using gauges) that the system is charged to 'spec' without evacuating the system and weighing the refrigerant charge. He could only look to see that the pressures were within an acceptable window for the ambient temp. But those readings 'assume' ALL else is correct with the system.

Then it goes on to say the high side pressure does not move and low side doesn't equalize.....but it doesn't say what procedure is being used. My 'guess' is that the tech was trying to record the 'static pressure' for some reason, since that is the only time the pressure should equalize (after the system is shut down and resting).

Further, the tech states the TXV is 'sticking' but we are not privy to why he thinks that is so. It can be determined using a set of gauges or a temperature clamp to measure the Superheat at the evaporator.

IF your system is overcharged....it will indeed result in poor cooling. But a simple reading of the gauges should quickly tell you if an overcharge is the issue. BOTH the low and high side pressures will be high. But both of those pressures might be high IF you have poor airflow through the condenser, hence my previous statement about all else being correct with the system.

Until we have high and low side pressure readings (A/C system having been run 5-10 minutes to stabilize) we really can't offer much.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

Yes, you can use the FSM numbers as a 'guideline' (within the ambient temp window cited).

So....for 90-95°F ambient temp (taken 1' in front of condenser) you should have pressure readings of about 30-35psi on the low side and 200-225psi for the high side. It will be higher if the temperature is higher.

Whoever wrote the Service Report either did not understand what the technician had told them....or the technician doesn't know what they are doing....or is a poor communicator.

There basically is nothing in that report that is useful.

First....the tech could not determine (using gauges) that the system is charged to 'spec' without evacuating the system and weighing the refrigerant charge. He could only look to see that the pressures were within an acceptable window for the ambient temp. But those readings 'assume' ALL else is correct with the system.

Then it goes on to say the high side pressure does not move and low side doesn't equalize.....but it doesn't say what procedure is being used. My 'guess' is that the tech was trying to record the 'static pressure' for some reason, since that is the only time the pressure should equalize (after the system is shut down and resting).

Further, the tech states the TXV is 'sticking' but we are not privy to why he thinks that is so. It can be determined using a set of gauges or a temperature clamp to measure the Superheat at the evaporator.

IF your system is overcharged....it will indeed result in poor cooling. But a simple reading of the gauges should quickly tell you if an overcharge is the issue. BOTH the low and high side pressures will be high. But both of those pressures might be high IF you have poor airflow through the condenser, hence my previous statement about all else being correct with the system.

Until we have high and low side pressure readings (A/C system having been run 5-10 minutes to stabilize) we really can't offer much.

View attachment 2059656

thanks man. i will print and read this tonight. appreciate it.

attached is the quote from precision auto care. running to NAPA to check pricing. cruiserparts wants $300 for the denso compressor and about $100 for the expansion valve and receiver/dryer (whatever that is). but it will take 2 weeks to get here.
i may have to park it and deal with it later.
for values i am hearing this morning we got 100 psi high side and 0 psi low side (can convert that later) and that these are correct values. so they say compressor is shot and expansion valve may be blocked.
but maybe not worthwhile replacing the condenser.
this quote seems like they made a mistake? they said $150 labor if i bring in parts.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

autozone says the denso compressor they can have tomorrow if i order by 11:00. they have some random kit for the expansion valve and receiver dryer for $70. and i could order condenser for $138 while i am at it i guess.
sounds like time to put in a new compressor i guess?
THANKS a /lot/

 

[Tools R Us]

Why does the compressor need to be replaced?

Using rockauto pricing, the compressor is $180.79, expansion valve $14.69, drier $11.31, all Denso parts.

 

[1972FJ55]

autozone says the denso compressor they can have tomorrow if i order by 11:00. they have some random kit for the expansion valve and receiver dryer for $70. and i could order condenser for $138 while i am at it i guess.
sounds like time to put in a new compressor i guess?
THANKS a /lot/

View attachment 2059697

That quote has the wrong Denso number, for an 80 series gas it should be 471-1166.

 

[Tools R Us]

Take a trip to you local store....

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Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!

www.harborfreight.com

 

[flintknapper]

Are the values you cited 'static pressure'? Or are those supposed to be high and low side readings with the compressor running?

I ask...because I don't see how they would have gotten the clutch to engage with zero low side pressure, unless they jumped it?

The TXV is what separates the high and low sides. A blocked TXV (if that is what they assert) would do two things:

1. Static pressure (engine/AC not running) would not equalize or would take a LONG time to do so.
2. If running, low side pressure would be very low or actually pull into a vacuum (if the compressor is any good).

As for labor....all I can tell you is I wouldn't replace a compressor, drier, TXV and recharge the system for $150.00

IF they feel the compressor is shot...then the proper thing to do is remove it and inspect it to see if they think it sent small metal particles all through your system. Some will be caught in drier and Expansion valve screen. IF that is the case...then flushing the lines and replacing the compressor, the evaporator, the condenser, the drier and TXV are to be expected....or you'll be doing this all over again.

IF they feel the reed valves in the compressor failed and didn't send metal everywhere, then less is required. But I'd recommend finding a reputable shop with a good understanding of A/C systems....to diagnose it. Or at least ask questions of them....often times the Service Writer just jots down a synopsis of what the tech actually told them. Not unusual for the tech to know what they are doing and for the Service Writer to butcher what they were told.