80 Series 3D Printed Parts

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Outsane

Outsane

Supporting Vendor
10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Oct 1, 2010
Threads
92
Messages
3,087
Location
San Mateo, CA
Website
solvefunction.com
Post up all 3d printing related info that is useful to a 80-Series

like
-Links to files
-Things you have made
-Ideas


If you want anything printed let Me know.
or @mct75


If any one wants to be added to the list just let me know.
 
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3D printed fix for floppy vents

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2584137

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I would have liked replacements for the plastic 'gasket' that goes between the door handles and the body. I don't know if it'd be worth the effort, though, since you can buy entire aftermarket assemblies for something like $40.
 
I’d like a rugged 3D printed rear bumper with dual swing outs. Instead of formed steel I’d like it solid 3D plastic. I want it to be UV proof so it never deforms. Perhaps while dreaming I’d like it printed with mini micro nanoparticle so if someone smashes into it the reverse energy bounces them backwards. Of course the dents and scratches are self healing with nanotechnology so that parts EZ. I’d like the color changing stuff too, customizable to any cruiser color you want. Anderson disconnects and try to keep it under 75 pounds.

I’ll buy it from you if the price is reasonable.

Heck I’d buy a front one too. $$
 
3D printing as much as it is so advanced now, it will be commonplace in the future for things like this. Meantime people can come up with cool things like a cover for a fuse block holder Or a 3-D printed Cupholder.
 
musthave said:
3D printing as much as it is so advanced now, it will be commonplace in the future for things like this. Meantime people can come up with cool things like a cover for a fuse block holder Or a 3-D printed Cupholder.
Click to expand...

i'm working on designing a cupholder mounted where the ashtray pullout is right now! Hope to have a test print in a week or so.
 
How about a 3D frame for our adjustable door mirrors that keeps breaking no matter how much you epoxy or fix it? There's got to be a stronger filament than the crappy brittle OEM material that they're made of. It wouldn't need to be super UV resistant since it's an inside job. There'd have to be a left & right, but once the pattern program is correct, you could mirror image for the other side.

The tie wrap fix works, but a more permanent fix would be preferred.
 
aktundra said:
Im still waiting for somebody to 3D print the PS dash grab handle.
Click to expand...

Did they go NLA, or are you after a tan one.

I got a ‘95-‘97 grey/blue one NIB just a couple yrs back, it was easy to find.
 
here is the little clip in the door handle. i’m planning on doing the other one at the handle but also that little plastic collar that comes with the tumbler. if anyone has a busted one of those or a tumbler with it i can borrow i’d be interested.

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Here's an old phone pocket cupholder I designed in high school. (before I had my license even!)

I printed a test version in PLA, it screeched like crazy and its strength didn't inspire confidence. It would support the 1L Nalgene it was designed for, but a major hit with a full bottle would've probably snapped the drop-down support piece. It also doesn't have the push-in, push-out convenience, just used a little knob and slide with a slide stop. (I was lazy)

Nowadays we have PET variants which would work WAY better for noise/strength, although carbon fiber nylon might be necessary to support a full Nalgene, especially so it doesn't creep under the heavy load in 150F+ temps. Or maybe print holes in the corners to press in lengths of 1/16 welding rod.

Also, it was modelled in Sketchup... those were dark times. Definitely won't be doing that again.
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Next time I'm up late with nothing to do I'll see if I can remodel it in Solidworks with the push-in push-out and a beefier bottom support. I'll upload it to thingiverse when I do.

(Also, now that I'm experienced to know layer adhesion strength isn't an issue, I'll make it print standing vertically so you don't need to remove a ton of support material-that's why I had the "truss" structure down the sides, to help me poke out support structure)
 
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How about a plastic clip that can be bonded to the plastic trim that sits behind the sliding side cargo windows, the upper mount always breaks off the body of the plastic trim.

Something with a decently sized flat surface to bond to the trim with epoxy and the push pin sized to the body whole.

Or whatever configuration you printing geniuses decide....
 
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