80/20 with Stock Roof Rack

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I would recommend triangular gussets instead of L-shaped ones. See page 62 of the 8020 catalog for a comparison of the strength of different connectors. 80-20-Inc-Catalog-23 62 80/20 Inc.

Found these for much cheaper than the 4-hole 8020 gussets: L-Bracket w-Slide Nut & Bolt / 4040 4080 Aluminum Profile Extrusion Acc. (Qty 4) | eBay
You'll have to spray paint them black to match, but it's worth it for the savings in my opinion. Not at strong as the 4-hole, but still much better than L-shaped
How are those ebay corners holding up? They seem like maybe they're "cast" instead of machined like the 8020/TNutz stuff. Any issues?
 
This looks great! How is holding up?
Well, 3 years later happy to report all is well. I’ve only had one of the corer nuts come loose, hit it with some loc-tite.
 
I've seen a comment about poultry flooring, have you folks come up with other generic platform add-ons?

I also liked the aluminum angle with crates to hold gas cans, but does anyone have other ideas for carrying gas 5 gallon gas cans? I also have a 6 gallon boat tank I could use (has a lower profile).

Sometimes we take our little camper places, which uses a portable 2000W generator. I need a way to transport the gas, and I don't want to put gas cans in my vehicle or in the camper. In the past I carry an empty can, and fill it up at a nearby station after the camper is setup, but that isn't ideal.
 
I've seen a comment about poultry flooring, have you folks come up with other generic platform add-ons?

I also liked the aluminum angle with crates to hold gas cans, but does anyone have other ideas for carrying gas 5 gallon gas cans? I also have a 6 gallon boat tank I could use (has a lower profile).

Sometimes we take our little camper places, which uses a portable 2000W generator. I need a way to transport the gas, and I don't want to put gas cans in my vehicle or in the camper. In the past I carry an empty can, and fill it up at a nearby station after the camper is setup, but that isn't ideal.
I picked up a BajaRack fuel tank mount and have used that for a number of trips without issue. It felt the safest given the weight of full fuel tanks and keeping the ports at the top so less chance of leakage. I can see if I can dig up some pictures.
 
These work Great! other than being slightly shorter across the top it seems to be a good alternative to installing an aftermarket rack (especially with no wind noise). I ordered all parts from TNutz and they came exactly as ordered. The Crossbar lengths on my 200 were a little shorter than the others on here. I used 43 3/8 inch (43.375") length and I installed both double and single inside corners gussets. Using the singles for the very front and back edges gave an additional 3" spread across the top. (I'm installing a 88" long 270 awning so I wanted as much width as possible). It probably wasn't needed but I used a 1.5" x 4" bar (vs 1.5 x 3) for the center. I had TNUTZ do their standard counterbore, however, this was a bit deeper than I thought. I would recommend doing it at half the standard depth at 0.333" or so (standard depth is listed at 0.666").

parts:
EX-1545-BLACK - 1.5" x 4.5" BLACK Smooth T-Slotted Aluminum Extrusion
EX-1530-BLACK - 1.5" x 3" BLACK Smooth T-Slotted Aluminum Extrusion
(CB-015-A-BLACK) 15 Series BLACK 2 Hole Inside Corner Gusset
(CB-015-K-BLACK) 15 Series 4 BLACK Hole Inside Corner Gusset
w/ 5/16-18 x 5/8 screws and T-nuts.

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Tnutz messed up BOTH my orders. They have cheap prices, but they cut all the rails to the wrong size and in another order they forgot to send out certain parts.

Their customer service is also pretty bad, I do not recommend them.
 
Took all day but looks good and its rock solid, more stiff than the yakima aero bars were

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Each rail is held with 3 bolts per side, i wanted to space them out farther than the rack would allow with 4 bolts per side and they are plenty strong, gained around 6 inches by doing this. I had to do this with the RTT in place so it took alot more work, used tire blocks and 2x4 to lift it and then worked underneath, would not recommend.

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Will it make contact with roof when weighted?

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Will it make contact with roof when weighted?

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There is a tiny gap as is, very tiny.

If I shake the RTT pretty hard it will bouce a little and hit, were going camping this weekend and will update with any changes I need to make
 
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There is a tiny gap as is, very tiny.

If I shake the RTT pretty hard it will bouce a little and hit, were going camping this weekend and will update with any changes I need to make

Could always attach a short 3" piece to the 'L' brackets and attach your runners to those to get more clearance.
 
I don't know if you want to do it but you could widen the bar spacing on your tent to reduce the amount of deflection on the crossbars. Or add more crossbars and "clearance" the area of contact.

Also know, if you add more horizontal bars but only fasten the front and rear most ones, you can get squeaking noises. Would need a pad at the contact point or fasten them all.
 
0 deflection in the bars, the aluminum is crazy stiff.

I just did 250 miles, about 50 offroad, That contact point did bounce a few thousand times, i figured out its because one of the feet is not tight where the bar connects to the foot, looking to replace the feet maybe and add a third support in the middle that lots of other 100 have, I only have 4 feet total.

If I can restore the rigity on that foot then the gap will be gone, I have a plan, will post pics and see if it works soon
 
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I don't know if you want to do it but you could widen the bar spacing on your tent to reduce the amount of deflection on the crossbars. Or add more crossbars and "clearance" the area of contact.

Also know, if you add more horizontal bars but only fasten the front and rear most ones, you can get squeaking noises. Would need a pad at the contact point or fasten them all.
no need at all, two bars was absolutely strong enough as is
 

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