79 Series Won't Start... (1 Viewer)

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Feb 26, 2021
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Hi Guys,

Apologies if this issue has been covered but I have spent hours viewing threads without an answer. This site is normally very informative as I have watched it for years.

My issue is, I have a 2018 landcruiser model VDJ79R running the 1VD-FTV V8 Turbo Diesel. Listened to the in cab radio, battery went flat, charged battery, went to start only cranks but wouldnt start. Changed battery does exactly same thing, no blown fuses.,....any ideas?

Appreciate any recommendations. I own 6 odd cruisers but never had this issue.

Cheers
 
Is it an immobilizer issue perhaps? My VW does the same thing if the battery gets low, the alarm system keeps the engine from starting unless the immobilizer gets turned off.
 
Pretty basic ex mining rig, I'm not aware it has an immobilizer system.
Immobilizer is pretty much standard on any vehicle now. If you have the thick rubber head key, you have an immobilizer. However, that style of immobilizer isn’t usually effected by battery issues. But it does sound like something is intentionally preventing it from starting. Any chance the mining company would have installed security devices? Any strange wiring that could hint at that?
 
I'm not aware it has an immobilizer system.

The computer will not let it start if its sees good reason not to. It is likely stopping the fuel injection from allowing a charge of diesel to reach the injectors or actually turning off the injectors.
This situation would be best diagnosed by looking at the codes from the computer.
A specialist VDJ7* forum would be the best place to ask. Some of the FB 7* series pages can be a bit feral, full of young guys with 6 months into a 1HZ love affair.
 
try here

The computer will not let it start if its sees good reason not to. It is likely stopping the fuel injection from allowing a charge of diesel to reach the injectors or actually turning off the injectors.
This situation would be best diagnosed by looking at the codes from the computer.
A specialist VDJ7* forum would be the best place to ask. Some of the FB 7* series pages can be a bit feral, full of young guys with 6 months into a 1HZ love affair.
Thanks Rosco, I was thinking along the same lines........you wouldn't believe it I put the original battery and another through my 24 volt deep cycle battery charger all day to discount a possible volt sensory drop ultimately disabling key fundamentals of the engine management like inline fuel pressure or similar....finished a full charge, put it back in started first pop? Do these rigs have such a management system? Seems odd because I tried jumping it with to other slave batteries but not another running vehicle which may have contributed an increased assisted voltage.

Who knows il be buying a new battery this week, but will be thinking the bloody thing will let me down somewhere.....

Thanks to all the suggestions team!! Much appreciated.
 
Someone who can look at the fault codes maybe able to tell you. The management system is the ECU or computer. Everything has one now to pass emissions test. Lawnmowers, boat motors, everything.
 
Who knows il be buying a new battery this week, but will be thinking the bloody thing will let me down somewhere.....
The ECU wont let the engine start with less than 10.5 volts
 
Who knows il be buying a new battery this week, but will be thinking the bloody thing will let me down somewhere.....
See if the battery mob can read fault codes.
 
I am no expert but I have always read from supposed experts that you need to change both batteries at the same time in a 24v system. Again, not speaking from experience whatsoever. Glad you got it to start.
 
I am no expert but I have always read from supposed experts that you need to change both batteries at the same time in a 24v system. Again, not speaking from experience whatsoever. Glad you got it to start.
Thanks mate, yeah we always replace both batteries in our 24 volt set ups. The older cell tends to bring the new one down, a bit like vehicles or machinery that have one direct draw wire taken of one cell for a 12v delivery instead of installing a 24/12 volt reducer.
 
Hello,

Microprocessors, ECU ones in particular, are usually thirsty. If there is not enough juice for the ECU processor to operate, then it may block the start.

Immobilizers vary from one market to another. Worn contacts cause them to block ignition, because their ECUs interpret them as tampering attempts.

There might be an ignition cable or contact worn or loose.

This is a good chance to find and reset pending ECU codes.





Juan
 

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