'78 FJ40 Build - The Potato

[Lycent]

Hey guys,

I have a Olive '78 FJ40 that I need to get back into shape. It is my second TLC (first was a '72). I bought this one about 5 years ago off a really old guy (he was 93 at the time if I remember correctly) that couldn't turn the steering wheel very easily anymore. I recently decided to quit procrastinating on this and get it started.

Anyway, here is where everything stands:

- It won't crank. I'm think this is related to a radiator issue I had a while back - antifreeze was everywhere and I'm guessing that it helped corrode cables/connections to the point where there isn't enough juice getting to the starter. I'll work on it later. Hopefully it will be easy.

- Rust. Rust everywhere! This is where I feel most compelled to start because it is just getting worse until I get it dealt with for good.

- Engine, transmission, etc all run beautifully.

- Carb/accelerator linkage need help. About half of the accelerator linkage is wobbly and messed up. The carb really needs a rebuild.

- Some electrical issues. None of the electronic gauges work. All I have is an ammeter and a speedo. I believe there is an intermittent short somewhere on that fuse. I can replace it and it might last for a week or a month or it might blow immediately. I'll save this problem for later. I've tried to find the source and I can't stomach even thinking about it at the moment.

That pretty much sums it up. The name isn't quite decided. My wife and kids just call it "the FJ" but I didn't think that would really stand out much on this forum. We currently live in Idaho, and the olive/brown is old and faded...almost looks like a rusty old potato. Yup, an Idaho russet potato.

I don't really know protocol, so I'm going to do a new post for everything else and edit the "where everything stands" part as I go.

 

[Lycent]

So, first things first...the rust.

I'm pretty good with mechanical parts on the car but I suck at electrical and I haven't done much in the way of bodywork. I will definitely need to either, buy a welder and get good at it, or spend a ton of money on new parts and/or labor. Obviously, everyone should have a welder anyway.

I started pulling some parts a couple weeks back to dip my toe in. Wire wheel grinding sucks. Ran across this video today it is an Aussie doing some cool work with molasses to kill/remove all the rust. For the parts I don't need to cut/replace, I would really love to not have to grind them. I would also be open to building/buying a sandblaster. I've also heard vinegar works wonders. Electrolysis sounds interesting too.

Has anyone here used a molasses/water soak on their rust? If so, results and recommendations? Issues?

I'll try it this week and post back.

 

[78fj40mg]

I would start with plenty of pictures of your rig so we can see what it looks like and offer appropriate solutions for the various issues. FYI, I would make this your primary thread so all your work will documented in one thread. I look forward to your posts.

 

[TheHardWay]

Olive? My fave! Yeah, gotta post the pics, or the peanut gallery will lose interest fast. Ownership is unproven until we see photographic proof. Bring it on!

 

[Lycent]

Alright, so pics...I'm out of town at the moment and can't grab any full body shots but before I left, I started the molasses slurry...First up is the slurry itself and a handful of rusty garbage (other than the air intake clamp, that is still my current in-use clamp).

24 hours later, I popped everything out and scrubbed it off. Unlike the man in the video, I didn't pressure wash, I just used the sink and my fingers to scrub it. The last two pictures are what stuff looked like. As you can see, shiny!! Well, at least a little bit of shiny. After taking a good look, I put it all back in the slurry for another dose. I'll be back Friday afternoon and will check up give updates.

If this really works, it could make my world a beautiful place! I am in and out of town and have a lovely wife that likes a clean house/garage. She is great and doesn't complain about my messes, but I know she doesn't like it when I leave rusty parts half dealt with lying around. If they are in a bin soaking in slurry, then epoxy primer on them and stacked nicely...she won't stress so much (and then I won't stress so much). Not to mention that I can get work done while I'm gone with very little effort and less risk than an electrolysis setup.

As for posts of the Potato, I'll get some older archived pics in the following posts. Keep in mind, they aren't recent. The rust has progressed well in the last couple years.

 

[Lycent]

And the Potato in all her rusty, baked potato glory.

 

[Lycent]

And more potato goodness. The biggest difference between these pics and her current state, aside from the aforementioned rust, is her move into the garage and subsequent filling with storage bins. (that isn't my house, the potato would've been mashed if I tried to fit her in there).

 

[joyRidaz]

@Lycent - I've had good results from a similar technique using white wine vinegar. Very cheap, not sticky and no mixing and measuring required. Also Eco & Mrs/family friendly.

Not sure on timings of molasses bath, but the vineagar takes a few days depending on the situation.

I wish I could fill a pool with some rust eating cocktail and drive my rig off the diving board for a long swim!

Cheers

 

[Lycent]

@joyRidaz Thanks! I've seen that too. I'll do some comparisons between the two and see which is better. I don't mind mixing the molasses. 1 part molasses to 9 parts water means a little bit goes a long way. There is no doubt though, the molasses is sticky and it smells (worse than vinegar imo).

When your rig is out of the cocktail pool, I'd love to drop mine in too. On second thought, I probably don't. I don't want to clog up your pool and end up with a bag of random pats. I'm pretty sure the rust is all that holds it together at this point.

 

[TheHardWay]

Wow, that 93 yr old PO wasn't very finicky about maintenance

 

[Lycent]

Been gone for work and haven't put much into the Potato. The molasses and vinegar both do an approximately equal good job. I haven't had a chance to use either very much.

I decided to work on getting the thing started. Topped the battery off, nothing - not even a click. Pulled the battery cables off and they are extremely corroded. What I can see of the cable looks awful. The contact points on the frame were super rusty so I polished them up. Pulled the starter to clean it up and repaint the rusty parts. I just used some engine enamel I had in the garage.

Here's where I ran into an issue...the solenoid had a wire (not connected to anything) attached to it and when I removed it the stud fell down inside the solenoid. It looks like the only way to pull the plastic cap off the solenoid would be to melt the solder on the wires that run into it. Anyone know if that is the case? Obviously they aren't too much to replace if I need to.

Also, I have heard about people replacing their starter with another part. Anyone want to fill me in on what that might be and why people do that?

 

[Lycent]

Did a little reading on here...replacing the OEM starter for a gear reducted starter seems like just the ticket. Picked one up that is supposed to go on an 85 fj60. It looks so cute. It's tiny compared to the tractor starter that I had.

I figure that I can stem the tide of rust in a small way if I pull one or two extra pieces every time I work on it and get them all shiny and nice. Makes it a little like a jigsaw puzzle, but it's better than the alternative The little panel below the starter is now a glossy black enamel instead of .25inch of greasy dirt. Hit a few other parts too. I wish I could spare the time/money to clean the frame up.

Hopefully tomorrow I can get everything put back together with my new battery cables and ground strap. Then we get to see if this is all she needs to actually turn over!

 

[Lycent]

When I was picking up the new starter, I ran into someone from IH8MUD at NAPA. He has a 72 fj40 that sounds like it was in awesome shape. Love that these old trucks bring people together with something to talk about.

 

[Lycent]

Love the new starter! Got everything put back together and it spun up perfectly. Like others have said, I miss the sound of the old one, but I'm sure I'll get over it. Now just need to decide what to tackle next. Gauges maybe...carb needs work bad too.

(deleted bad link)

 

[78fj40mg]

Your link doesn't work. All I heard was silence!

 

[Lycent]

[QUOTE="78fj40mg, post: 10089088, member: 37754"Your link doesn't work. All I heard was silence![/QUOTE]

Well, if I knew of a way to easily move videos from Google Photos to youtube, I would probably have far fewer issues lol. Hopefully this one works better...



Don't pay too much attention to my paint job on the battery mount. It is obviously terrible! But there is everything in place.

 

[Lycent]

Since getting the starter motor in, I haven't done tons except actually get the Potato registered and start driving around. Since we have had lots of snow/rain recently I decided before gauges and carb, I better get my windshield wipers working again. A couple years ago they quit so it's time to deal with it!

First of all, I yanked the motor. Clearly had a burned out wire. Soldered in a new one and cleaned everything up. (sorry I didn't take any pics). Put everything back together to test (without wipers) and it all worked. Attached wiper linkage and it they didn't move.

Pulled wiper linkage and passenger side pivot is totally seized. I've been putting PB Blaster on it every couple hours for a few days now and it won't loosen up. It doesn't look like any of these are available oem anywhere on the planet. Maybe I missed something. I'd even be willing to grab a new linkage if I could find a new oem part but it appears, sadly, to be unavailable. I'd kind of like to steer clear of the $98.00 SOR wants for a used part. Any ideas on how to loosen the old one or get my hands on a new one?

 

[sggoat]

CruiserParts.net lists a complete wiper linkage set for $75--be patient--they WILL call you back.

 

[Weber Sarge]

Mix up some trans fluid and acetone , about 50/50 . Apply it to the shaft , some of those have an o-ring and to get oil past it you need to dig it out first . Do not get this stuff on the paint - it will ruin it . Should free it up in a few hours ....
I'd remove them completely , clean the shafts and lube them , re-assemble .
Sarge

 

[Lycent]

I'll try to free it up with Trans fluid/Acetone first, then check out Cruiserparts. I appreciate the responses, thanks!