Builds 78 body off restore (cruiser #2) (2 Viewers)

[Curtice]

On the overheating problem, new thermostat from @ToyotaMatt seems to be working great. I'm running 195-200 degrees on average, which I think is just right for the 3FE. Drove it up a long freeway hill at speed to see how hot it would get. Last time I did this, temps got up to 215+. This time, I didn't cross over 205. This was in about 85 degree weather. I'd like to drive in hotter weather to test, but alas I live in Seattle and will have to wait for a heat wave. For now, I am happy. I do plan to do the burping as suggested by @tornadoalleycruiser above. Want to get it all done correctly.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

I'm going to reburp my 3fe. Test drive last night and mine overheated again. I watched the thermostat open and close for the first stretch of interstate, then it seemed to "lock" and slowly crept up. I think a 3fe is just a bear to burp. I think i still have an air pocket that turns into a steam pocket. Since we have basically the same exact drivetrain i'm really curious how yours works out.

 

[Chungas Revenge]

Sometimes parking nose up on a hill helps.

^^^ sage advice. Get the nose up and try it. I put mine on ramps the 1st time I used the burp kit.

 

[Curtice]

Hi all. Cruiser still running well for the most part. However just ran into an alternator issue.

I had wired in a charge warning light and last night it came on. I then noted while driving that my battery voltage gauge was at 12.2.

Looked at it this morning and looks like something happened at the alternator. Don’t know what, but some kind of power surge or something fried the output to battery terminal. It melted the boot and when I went to unbolt the wire, the terminal stud just broke off. See pictures below.

I have the alternator charge wire going through a 100amp fuse to the battery and fuse didn’t blow.

Previous to this I the warning had periodically flashed, but I thought I had a bad wiring somewhere. Now realizing it might have been a precursor warning that something in the alternator wasn’t working properly.

So I guess I need a new alternator, but has anyone seen something like this happen before? I’m not sure what caused it and I’m worried I’ll put in a new alternator and run into the same problem. I have it wired according to the 1992 3FE schematic (which this engine came from).

 

[Curtice]

I’m thinking the stud was old and not good. I remember it being a bit crusty. Even if something caused a big amp draw, I don’t think it would make the terminal stud just break off the alternator that easily.

 

[dmaddox]

Great to see your name pop up! I agree, old and crusty, causing a short?

 

[Curtice]

Thanks Dallas. Yeah that is what I think. I think the stud connection was bad and created too much heat till it failed all together.

I rigged up a temporary connection to the B+ terminal “stump” (broken stud) on the back of the alternator and fired it up. Warning light was off and the alternator was properly charging the battery, running at 13.9V.

So the alternator still seems to work well, but I need to take it apart and see if the broken stud is repairable or if I need a whole new alternator. I imagine there is a way to fix it.

Just weird. I can’t imagine any kind of power surge creating enough heat to crack a bolt. That is why I think it was bad to start with. I think the periodic flashing of the charge warning light were the beginnings of it failing and shorting. I should have paid attention!