'77 fj40 California Help locating vacuum leak and routing of emissions (2 Viewers)

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Check this video out for the vacuum leak. I used this method to find the leak on my ranger and it worked well.

 
iptman said:
See if some of these pics help. I don't think that egr pipe is part of the vacuum system. It doesn'tView attachment 1345515 View attachment 1345516 View attachment 1345518 View attachment 1345519 View attachment 1345527 look stock either so you may have an issue on the visual inspection.
Click to expand...
Very nice photos- Thanks!

It looks like I need a VSV like yours. It is clear that the VSV I have is not appropriate.
Thanks for the input about the EGR.

Do you have the factory distributor? I ask because I do not see any vacuum lines directed toward it.
 
Yes that's an original distributor. Unique to the Cali 40s, it apparently has both vacuum advance and retard.
 
spotcruiser said:
Can you read the part number at the top of your VSV. I can't quite make it out in the photo. According to the fiche, the part number should be 17650-61040 for a Cal. Spec. 8/76-9/77 VSV.

That agrees with the photo posted by iptman.
Click to expand...

Thanks Spotcruiser, for checking the fiche! I was perusing the internet and found two images of VSVs. Each had the same part number that you referenced but were dislike. One looked like the one I have and the other looked like iptman's. With aftermarket stickers available maybe one is an imposter, & I am betting it is the one that resembles the one I have-Thanks again!
 
You should post up some pics s of your engine bay and let folks comment on what's there and what's not.
 
iptman said:
Yes that's an original distr
Click to expand...
iptman said:
You should post up some pics s of your engine bay and let folks comment on what's there and what's not.
Click to expand...
I suppose I could at a later time. I'm pretty confident all the parts are there. I recently obtained the two hard to find VCVs from a fellow Mud member. It does have a CARB approved header, made by Downey and has the sticker with EO# under the hood. I do need new rubber tubes leading from the ABV (smog pump and air rail). Any ideas on replacement parts?
Thanks to you I am on the right track for obtaining a correct VSV-which will probably be quite a challenge.
 
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Here's another image of the 17650-61040 VSV.

17650-61040 Fjsnoozer.jpg
 
Good deal. I hope it works for you.
 
You need to make sure that the "computer" is working first. They have a problem where the plug connector to the PC board breads the board traces due to vibration. To check, turn the key on and wiggle the connector and listen if the solenoids fire. If so, resolder the traces and pot the connector to the board with exoxy.
 
Been there too, but I don't know much accept from my own experience. Take the butterfly shaft out and check it for wear. Probably has some. Put a piece of emery cloth to it and then replace the shaft and as you do so, pack the shaft and housing with High Temperature Grease. This is available at any bearing supply company ,Ebay, or...... High temp grease is used in pizza ovens, rotisseries at your local Deli, grocery, big pharma companies ..... It melts or sags at temp much higher than your carb will ever reach. Cost is about 12 bucks. Test it on your wife's skillet if you doubt. Run the heat way up, red hot, dollop a spoon full on the skillet and see for your self. If that is the source of vacuum leak it will be gone.

Mitch Schliebs
 
Do not remove the carb butterfly shafts. The butterfly screws are staked and you have to grind off the end to get the screw out and you have to get new screws. You can see if there is too much play without removing the butterfly valves.
 
DSC00773.JPG
Pin_Head said:
Do not remove the carb butterfly shafts. The butterfly screws are staked and you have to grind off the end to get the screw out and you have to get new screws. You can see if there is too much play without removing the butterfly valves.
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Maybe so, but I only know from my serious frustration and ultimate satisfaction. And, I don't remember about the screws but I did have about a million screws on the shelf at the time; metric and the other ones. They are all in storage at this moment. Any way, passed smog runs good.

Pinhead might be right about the screws but, the shaft is still going to grow groves and wobble with use. If screws are an issue, then make it on down to your local (usually not so) McFadden Dale in SoCal or commercial hardware shop and buy new screws. Take care and follow Pinhead's advice for install and treatment. Pack the shaft and housing with high temp grease, no matter, so that you avoid buying a $2,400.00 carb that only exists in someone's imagination.
 
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I am going to make a homemade smoke pump like the one posted by @screaminsavage
Question: where on the engine do you attach the smoking end of the hose to determine the source of the vacuum leak?
 
I don't think it matters but the larger vacuum tubes will be easier to plug in to, like on the brake booster.
 
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