77 fj40 - 350 conversion prolems (1 Viewer)

[jon]

I'm doing a 350 conversion to my 77' FJ40 using a Downey bell housing....350 to Toyota 4 speed and I'm having a couple problems.

I bought the cruiser in the middle of the conversion so I don't know everything about the conversion parts: Bell housing, Engine etc.

Starter problem: My starter will spin as though the solenoid is not working. I removed the starter and had it tested and it's good. Upon removing it I realized that the previous owner used a grinder to manipulate the starter to fit and now it doesn't line up with the fly wheel teeth every time (if the engine is slightly turned by hand the starter will engage). I have tried to find a 350 starter that will work but I'm having trouble. Has anyone had this problem? What starter do most use for this type of conversion? I have a block mounted starter and the engine is from an 86 K-5 Blazer with auto transmission


Also alternator wiring: When wiring the "GM heavy duty" alternator to the Toyota harness, I've discovered a strange problem. Once the alternator is hooked up the cruiser will not shut off by the key. Somehow the coil continues to get power even after the key is turned to the off position. I have checked my own wiring to the ignition switch and it checks out with the Downey manual. Any suggestions?

 

[woody]

Starter: I believe most "any" manual transmission starter should work for you, I always walked into my local parts store and asked for a 350 SBC manual trans starter and took whatever they gave me.

Wiring: Check the tech links for alternator conversions, IIRC, one of the two wires clipped into the alt needs a diode to not allow it to feedback into the wiring and cause the run-on issue. (or an idiot light on the dash works)

 

[jon]

Thanks woody,
The conversion say "connect a wire from the 10 ga. terminal to the Number 2 terminal on the alternator" when the jumper is hooked up that when I have the run-on problem. Does this mean hooking a wire between the large post on the GM alternator and the #2 terminal?

 

[Gumby]

There are two different rear wheel drive starters. They corrispond to the different number of teeth on the flywheel. There are also a number of different bolt patterns, although my Downey bellhousing has holes for all of them.

 

[woody]

[quote author=Gumby link=board=1;threadid=6564;start=msg53244#msg53244 date=1066746909]
There are two different rear wheel drive starters. They corrispond to the different number of teeth on the flywheel. There are also a number of different bolt patterns, although my Downey bellhousing has holes for all of them. [/quote]

my starters have all bolted to the block and been independant entirely of the bellhousing....OLD starters are bellhousing mounted, Reuben had one and replacing was a HUGE PITA!

Forgot about flywheel teeth tho....good thing to check first. (tho not easy to check...lol) 154 and 168 are the two tooth counts right Todd??

 

[woody]

http://www.geocities.com/baja/dunes/6948/alternator_swap.html

 

[jon]

I have a block mounted starter and it was the original from the K-5 Blazer and came with the engine. Does this mean it should match the number of fly wheel teeth?

When I said "the previous owner manipulated the starter with a grinder, he changed the size of the bendix gear cover to fit in the bell housing hole, and he went a little overboard so it won't line up right. I tryed a standard starter for the 86' 350 and it wont fit in the bell housing. It should fit in no problem right?

 

[dinkleberry]

I think there was only a 153 or a 168 (143 for the 400). If you have the 168 starter and a 153 flywheel I don't think it would catch at all. It probably has some thing to do with the "grinding to fit" that was done to it.

 

[woody]

IMO, the starter engagement is 100% dependent on the starter location, the flywheel/flexplate, and on the block...and 100% NOT dependant on the bellhousing. The fact that the PO ground the starter instead of the bellhousing only tells you to watch for lots of other screwed up items.

Buy a new starter, tweak the bellhousing to get it to fit, and work from there. Any autodroid store outta allow a return if you find the starter for the 85 350 with a manual trans doesn't work. My "guess" is the opening for the starter where it inserts into the bellhousing needs some minor grind work due to a casting issue with the bellhousing or due to imperfections in the starter. DO NOT grind the starter.

 

[theo]

[quote author=jon link=board=1;threadid=6564;start=msg53243#msg53243 date=1066746885]
Thanks woody,
The conversion say "connect a wire from the 10 ga. terminal to the Number 2 terminal on the alternator" when the jumper is hooked up that when I have the run-on problem. Does this mean hooking a wire between the large post on the GM alternator and the #2 terminal?
[/quote]

Here's another discussion that may help with the alternator setup:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=129640

 

[Gumby]

What Woody said was right. Bellhousing matters not at all. It is important to note that GM starters use shims to properly align the starter. If you have no shims and the gear is not lining up right, could be you need a shim or two.

 

[lone gunman]

check and see if the bolts that mount the starter are 9/16 or 14 mm in 1980 to 85 or 86 chev used metric bolts i went threw 2 starter nose cones before my parts guy figured it out. you may need a metric starter, there is a difference.

 

[hammerhead]

That's right. Our dump truck had similar problem. Metric starter is not the same as standard starter.