Build 76 FJ40 in South Texas

[South Texas 97]

In a sort of while I’m in here moment, decided to get a rebuilt steering box, mine was leaking from both seals. I borrowed a light duty truck pitman arm puller from my local auto parts store. Cinched everything up and no movement at all. Hit it a few times with a large hammer, still nothing. The only heat I have available is a small butane burner for heat shrink. Five minutes of heating and a bit
More tension and tap tap tap on the head of the puller, and the pitman arm came off. Super happy about that.

Next is a header. I could reuse the old one’s, rusty but recoverable. I found Benson Tuning in California offering a stainless steel unit for a reasonable price.
I got it on EBay but it’s better to buy direct from their site. And picked up some various stainless steel pipe and muffler, with the idea of replicating the original routing of the exhaust.

 

[South Texas 97]

The engine itself had terrible compression on 4 cylinders. The shop has it torn down, and the conclusion was a blown head gasket, and a warped head and block. I am pretty sure this was PO, as with the sniper I monitor the water temp like a hawk! Whatever the case, they will deck both the block and the head. Pistons are good, will replace all bearings, seals and rings and pick up an RV cam kit from ManaFre.

 

[RevISK]

In a sort of while I’m in here moment, decided to get a rebuilt steering box, mine was leaking from both seals. I borrowed a light duty truck pitman arm puller from my local auto parts store. Cinched everything up and no movement at all. Hit it a few times with a large hammer, still nothing. The only heat I have available is a small butane burner for heat shrink. Five minutes of heating and a bit
More tension and tap tap tap on the head of the puller, and the pitman arm came off. Super happy about that. View attachment 4070197
Next is a header. I could reuse the old one’s, rusty but recoverable. I found Benson Tuning in California offering a stainless steel unit for a reasonable price.
I got it on EBay but it’s better to buy direct from their site. And picked up some various stainless steel pipe and muffler, with the idea of replicating the original routing of the exhaust.

I have that same little torch, I use it all the time..

 

[South Texas 97]

While waiting on the engine to be rebuilt, decided to tackle a bunch of things in the engine bay.
The rebuilt steering box arrived, and was installed today. Need to connect the steering wheel to center the box before connecting the pitman arm.

Mocked up the exhaust, attempting to replicate the original routing.

Question, how far should the tip of the exhaust protrude on the pax side?

Routing over the rear axle

Not having the engine installed means the exact routing cannot be finalized, but it looks like it will fit.

 

[South Texas 97]

Engine is back!

Did not expect just the long block but a good chance for me to learn new things.
I decided on a cast iron gray color. It’s a duplicolor engine enamel. Will see how it holds up.
Chased a bunch of threads

Picked up a new intake stud kit and found some brass washers and nuts.
On installing the oil pump. I noticed I am missing what appears to be a gasket or washer number 39 on the SOR diagram. It is on the suction side just after the wire filter. I suspect I could get away without it.

What do you think?

 

[OlYellr]

Engine is back!
View attachment 4099616
Did not expect just the long block but a good chance for me to learn new things.
I decided on a cast iron gray color. It’s a duplicolor engine enamel. Will see how it holds up.
Chased a bunch of threads
View attachment 4099619
Picked up a new intake stud kit and found some brass washers and nuts.
On installing the oil pump. I noticed I am missing what appears to be a gasket or washer number 39 on the SOR diagram. It is on the suction side just after the wire filter. I suspect I could get away without it.

View attachment 4099620
What do you think?

Your call, but will put it out there, getting close to having an order from Japan placed. I don't see the part stateside (maybe SOR) but it shows they have in in Japan and not a super long wait- DM me if you want me to add to my order after they finish the review. What year is your block?

 

[OlYellr]

Engine is back!
View attachment 4099616
Did not expect just the long block but a good chance for me to learn new things.
I decided on a cast iron gray color. It’s a duplicolor engine enamel. Will see how it holds up.
Chased a bunch of threads
View attachment 4099619
Picked up a new intake stud kit and found some brass washers and nuts.
On installing the oil pump. I noticed I am missing what appears to be a gasket or washer number 39 on the SOR diagram. It is on the suction side just after the wire filter. I suspect I could get away without it.

View attachment 4099620
What do you think?

This, for some reason, is sticking with me. Why did Toyota do that? Nothing more than speculation. I liken that to a lid on a cup and a straw. I think first is to keep the tube (straw) from banging around there. Second - it prevents oil spilling out and keeps the level as high as possible inside the strainer for the pickup tube - and might add to some minimal suction properties.

 

[South Texas 97]

@Oyellr, thanks for the offer SOR had an aftermarket in stock. And with usps shipping zero shipping fee, a first.
It would stop a rattle for sure. I guess some debris could sneak down the side of the tube.

 

[South Texas 97]

Ready to button it back up. Took a moment with the clutch not yet installed to check my valve clearances. The shop had them too tight. After some research decided on 10 for the intake and 16 for the exhaust. Will adjust after I get it running.
The oiler for the cam gear was not pointing the right way, so fixed that and restaked it. With the cam gear cover off I could also verify the cam timing with the flywheel.

The oiler was off should be pointing at the point where the two gears mesh.

The cam timing lines up nicely with the flywheel . A touch of white paint on the marks on the flywheel and the pointer itself makes it easier to see.

Next was the new clutch disk and pressure plate. I had the shop face the flywheel for me.
And then installed the clutch arm and the little retainers on the throw out bearing. Bothe the pilot bearing and throw out bearing are new.
Next was putting the gearbox back on the back of the motor. I had done this before under the truck, so had four long bolts with their heads cut off to guide the transmission.

Please ignore the OSHA approved extension on the engine lift. It is only for the transmission

And there we are, all back together.

With any luck, will get it back on the truck tomorrow.

 

[South Texas 97]

Well, got it into the truck, and resting on the mounts. I found it easiest to remove the rear engine mounts while it was sliding in, nothing to catch on. Tilted the engine back so the transmission was low down, and could not quite get the 4x4 lever through the transmission cover. So took that off, 3 bolts. Got the front mounts more or less resting on the mounts, was able to install the 4x4 lever.
After that used a small jack to lift the back on the transmission high enough to bolt on the rear mounts, being very careful to not get under the still suspended load. With that done, installed the rubber pucks that serve as rear engine mounts, and tightened everything down.
Could not resist mocking up the headers. They seem to fit well, and are well made.
Question, should I wrap them, or ceramic coating?

Other side, I need to install the oil cooler, plumbing and distributor, and the oil sensor.

Making some progress!

 

[OlYellr]

Well, got it into the truck, and resting on the mounts. I found it easiest to remove the rear engine mounts while it was sliding in, nothing to catch on. Tilted the engine back so the transmission was low down, and could not quite get the 4x4 lever through the transmission cover. So took that off, 3 bolts. Got the front mounts more or less resting on the mounts, was able to install the 4x4 lever.
After that used a small jack to lift the back on the transmission high enough to bolt on the rear mounts, being very careful to not get under the still suspended load. With that done, installed the rubber pucks that serve as rear engine mounts, and tightened everything down.
Could not resist mocking up the headers. They seem to fit well, and are well made.
Question, should I wrap them, or ceramic coating? View attachment 4112827
Other side, I need to install the oil cooler, plumbing and distributor, and the oil sensor.
View attachment 4112828
Making some progress!

Excellent progress!

 

[South Texas 97]

Decided to get the exhaust header ceramic coated to reduce the temperature a bit in the engine compartment, so while that was in the queue mocked up the intake with Sniper and newish air cleaner.
The guys at Redline suggested the sniper was getting too hot air from this tiny air filter.

So I looked around on line and found this one - from an earlier model, but it should do the job.

I don't remember the part number exactly.

My plan is to mount it to the fender - don't expect the engine to move around very much, but all comments welcome if this is a good idea or better to tie it to the engine block as per the original.
I don't have an original mount, but am sure I can fabricate something.

Looking forward to being able to turn this thing over and get it running and on the road.

 

[South Texas 97]

Ok , back to it. Stainless steel header from Benson performance is ceramic coated and installed along with a remflex gasket. Found the right size brass nuts.

I ended up making an adapter from the 5 1/8 sniper body to the 3 inch air intake. Made a bracket for the air filter housing to the top bolt of the engine mount, as I did not want to take off two of the head bolts to install an original bracket.
It’s all back together, should be able to do the run in procedure this weekend, get my timing adjusted, and the get the exhaust installed.

 

[South Texas 97]

Finally it is up and running!
Started with the fuel pump fuse out, and cranked a bit until the oil pressure came up.
Put the fuse back, and turned the key to the run position, and could hear the in tank fuel pump running. And it started right up.
I had previously set the engine to #1TDC, and had run the oil pump with a flat blade screwdriver shaft and a drill. Installed the distributor.

Decided to use the break in oil recommended by RedLine Landcruiser in Colorado Springs.

Ran it for 20 minutes at between 2000 and 3000 rpm.
Oil pressure came up to just over 60psi on my mechanical gauge.

The Sniper control panel let me monitor Water Temp and volts.

The instrument cluster gauges ran a bit behind the Sniper.
No exhaust system yet, other than a stubby pipe for the O2 sensor.
I was wearing hearing protection for the entire time.

It’s not front end Friday, but here we go.

Next step will be some break in driving per instructions

 

[OlYellr]

What a great feeling that must have been. Sounds fantastic!

 

[South Texas 97]

Thanks, I still have to tweak the timing - but the static timing I did seems pretty good to let me start it and run it.
Next will be a couple of short runs (50miles/80km) and then check head bolts and valve clearances. And get an exhaust system on it!

After that some more running around and an update to the front axles - replace seals and bearings. there is some leaking around the back of the burfs. I cleaned and updated the burf grease when I got the truck around 8000 miles ago.

 

[South Texas 97]

Took it out for a 70 mile run early on a Sunday morning. Everything behaved as it should. Oil pressure around 55-60psi, water temp while driving was a rock solid 175-178F. When I stopped to check, heat soak went up to 210F, but as soon as I started driving again, the temp dropped back to 175 pretty quickly.
Varied the speed/RPM and did some acceleration/deceleration as recommended to seat the rings. Will do another run tomorrow and the an oil and filter change.


After things cooled down, checked for leaks of oil or water. Very minor oil drips, so tightened the oil pan and cam timing cover. I know I torqued them, but perhaps not to the right spec. Let’s see what happens on the next drive.

 

[South Texas 97]

Just got the truck back from getting the exhaust system fabricated. Cam Chin over at Nefarious Kustoms did a great job.

High and tight and mostly as the Toyota gods intended. Except it’s 2.5” diameter.

Added a V band clamp in case it needs to come apart in the future.

Sounds great as well. Next is an oil change and will do a compression test to see where we are at.