Looks great, Cim. Now come over and clean up my wiring!
Builds 75 Series cab on 80 series chassis with Cummins 6BT (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Mr Cimarron
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #482
Ha! Are you still having brake light issues on the 40?
Naah, AJ gave me the rubber pad that fixed that. My 60 is a mess under the dash from the PO's stereo installations.
- Thread starter
- #484
Radio circuit done. Ran wire for the dash speakers but still need to run wire to the doors. I’m holding off bringing the doors out of storage. That will just open up another can of worms dealing with those. This will be the fanciest radio I have ever had.
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
Cim, what are you using for a 12v power source for all your wiring testing?
I was just going to ask the same thing.
- Thread starter
- #487
I saw the Pyramid units while I was researching things. Thanks for the recommendation!
Like your approach to testing on the bench before it goes in. Mental note for me!
Did some searching and found these reviews on the Pyramid unit: https://www.eham.net/reviews/view-product?id=7154
They're powering radios, so the RF interference is an issue there. That seems to be a deal with the switching power supplies. The alternative is the weight, heat, and lesser efficiency of a linear power supply. Again, these would be more issues for something powering a unit (such as their radios) constantly than a test bed which is on for minutes more than hours. A filter could be added if you're regularly testing audio equipment.
The power switch on the neutral instead of the hot could easily be rewired. The comment about the 30A being peak power and more properly rated 20A could be an issue depending on what you're testing.
Certainly a rabbit-hole to go down... Possible options would be meters and adjustable voltage. I've had some issues with items that didn't work at lower voltages, so that might be something useful for testing. Of course, it becomes a question of price vs. function. You can spend a pile of money on it or get something that serves the purpose and be done with it.
They're powering radios, so the RF interference is an issue there. That seems to be a deal with the switching power supplies. The alternative is the weight, heat, and lesser efficiency of a linear power supply. Again, these would be more issues for something powering a unit (such as their radios) constantly than a test bed which is on for minutes more than hours. A filter could be added if you're regularly testing audio equipment.
The power switch on the neutral instead of the hot could easily be rewired. The comment about the 30A being peak power and more properly rated 20A could be an issue depending on what you're testing.
Certainly a rabbit-hole to go down... Possible options would be meters and adjustable voltage. I've had some issues with items that didn't work at lower voltages, so that might be something useful for testing. Of course, it becomes a question of price vs. function. You can spend a pile of money on it or get something that serves the purpose and be done with it.
- Thread starter
- #491
The other thing I don't like about it is when you turn it off it doesn't cut the circuit. It winds down. So far for my bench testing it has been great. No more lugging a battery around or using a 12V Dewalt battery. Although the 12v battery does work great for quick tests on stuff.
I wonder if the "winding down" would change if you reversed the switch to cut power instead of neutral?
- Thread starter
- #493
That could work. I think I will make a external switch to cut power instantly off. No worries now since I only test one circuit at a time by removing all the fuses in the box except what I’m working on. When I get to the point of firing up the whole harness I want to be able to cut power instantly if there is an issue.
- Thread starter
- #494
Working on a few other electric items. Added USB charger and inverter. Inverter is out of a Toyota Matrix. It’s not the best but fits the switch blanks perfectly. It’s been laying around the garage for a few years so I added it to this build just to fill the switch blanks.
Cim,
That inverter is all-in-one or do you have to connect it to an external inverter that take the 12VDC and converts it to 110AC?
That inverter is all-in-one or do you have to connect it to an external inverter that take the 12VDC and converts it to 110AC?
- Thread starter
- #496
I pulled the inverter from the Matrix as well. It's plug in play once a relay is added.
- Thread starter
- #497
The final (hopefully) big piece missing from the build just arrived. Original removable roof panel was too far gone to fix.
That’s awesome!!!
bottombracket
SILVER Star
Gorgeous. No shipping issues I see!
- Thread starter
- #500
It was held up a day in customs. Other than that it was all good.
