Hmmm... Doesn't extend down to protect the front of the frame, doesn't extend out to the track width, and barely reaches the edge of the hood. I'd say it needs to be BIGGER!
Builds 75 Series cab on 80 series chassis with Cummins 6BT (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Mr Cimarron
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Hmmm... Doesn't extend down to protect the front of the frame, doesn't extend out to the track width, and barely reaches the edge of the hood. I'd say it needs to be BIGGER!
- Thread starter
- #462
It definitely would need to adjustments.Hmmm... Doesn't extend down to protect the front of the frame, doesn't extend out to the track width, and barely reaches the edge of the hood. I'd say it needs to be BIGGER!
- Thread starter
- #463
A few more photos of the bumper lowered down a bit. Tried to set the same as the Slee. I think I would try to confirm it onto the frame the same way, just wouldn’t be as clean. Some good tow hooks might protect hide the frame horns. Anything I start with will need to be modified.
Slee bumper on 80
Slee bumper on 80
- Thread starter
- #464
I also managed to get the starting system ready for key starting. Only need to fab up my battery tray. Since I originally was going flatbed with batteries under it I now had to switch my thinking since I have a legit factory pickup bed now. I am planning to fit one battery in the factory right side location as of now. I have a Ruff Stuff Odyssey group 34 box that I will figure out how to make work. 2/0 cable going to starter.
- Thread starter
- #465
Today was the day to figure out how to shift the 80 series transfer case. The stock 80 shifter wasn’t going to work with the shifter cover for the 75. I had a shifter from a split case that I ended up hacking up and welding back together to make work. The NV4500 had no mounting locations so I used some angle iron to bolt onto the top plate. Worked out pretty good. I now just need to find a pivot bolt to swap out for the regular bolt I used to hold the shifter. For the rod from shifter to transfer case I used two rods from 80 series cases and welded them together. Also some trimming of the cover needed to take place.
Looks badass!!! Great stance!
- Thread starter
- #467
I gave the pedals a fresh coat of paint, new pedal pads and small bits. Pretty sure my interior will be much better than the outside once this thing is done. I’m fine with that.
This afternoon I started fabricating battery box #1. Started with a worn out factory box. I got as far as securing it in four places. It will eventually hold the Ruff Stuff Odyssey box. I also want to mount the voltage regulator and alternator fuse somewhere on it.
It will also need a good heat shield since it is next to the turbo.
This afternoon I started fabricating battery box #1. Started with a worn out factory box. I got as far as securing it in four places. It will eventually hold the Ruff Stuff Odyssey box. I also want to mount the voltage regulator and alternator fuse somewhere on it.
It will also need a good heat shield since it is next to the turbo.
Nice work. Love your thought process and layout SkillZ. It’s getting close. Did you try the bed on it yet?
- Thread starter
- #469
I haven’t. I need to be able to move the truck out of the garage first which I am hoping to have it movable by March.
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Going to have to work this out on the Troopy as well. There obviously no plug and play options. Last set of fully custom bumpers I had made were stupid expensive, not doing that again and I k ow @TonyP doesn’t want to drop that kind of coin on bumpers.
Obvious easiest solutions are modify somebody’s production bumper to work or simply build one myself. I am far cheaper than the dudes that charge R&D time at full rate on top of fab to do custom work.
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #471
I have been pretty lazy over the holidays when I should have been getting stuff done. Dragged the inside wiring harness back inside to add more circuits and do some bench testing. Tonight I got heater electrics working. Almost have wipers figured out also but waiting on a relay to come in.
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Hey sorry about that triple post in your thread, I deleted them. Sometimes the phone lags out and tapping does nothing and then that happens.
Cheers
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #473
No worries. I have done many times before.Hey sorry about that triple post in your thread, I deleted them. Sometimes the phone lags out and tapping does nothing and then that happens.
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #474
Rheostat is working. Only issue is the Speedhut gauges don’t seem to work on the Toyota dimmer so they will run on their own with the supplied Speedhut dimmer. Also the Auber gauges will dim with headlights but can’t be used on the dimmer dial. All perfectly fine as I run red lights in the cruisers and rarely use the rheostat.
I don’t recall what Toyota the rheostat came from that fits in the switch panel cutout. I think it was from an old ass 4Runner. The pick n pull is full of 90s era Toyota’s.
I don’t recall what Toyota the rheostat came from that fits in the switch panel cutout. I think it was from an old ass 4Runner. The pick n pull is full of 90s era Toyota’s.
That looks great. Nice attention to detail.
- Thread starter
- #476
I had to take a break last night because I was making errors trying to get the rheostat wired to everything. Once I finished I didn’t even want to test it because I was afraid it would fail and I would fling the harness outside. Got home today with a fresh head and fired it up and it worked!
I had to remind myself to stick to the details and take my time.
bottombracket
SILVER Star
Cim, I make a living sewing 2mm blood vessels together...and you’re the most meticulous person I know.
I still can’t believe you’re building this from scratch. Awesome progress.
I still can’t believe you’re building this from scratch. Awesome progress.
- Thread starter
- #478
If I only could have put it toward school instead of irrational things.
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Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
I believe most of the toyota Rheostat's operate on the ground, whilst many aftermarket gauges dimmer circuits operate on the hot side. I know for a fact that is the case in the 80 series. I did the same thing and wired in an isspro rheostat hidden under the dash to control the illumination of my boost and pyro gauges.
- Thread starter
- #480
That’s good to know. I need to get one the isspro for the 80. Boost and EGT are a bit bright.
