Builds 75 Series cab on 80 series chassis with Cummins 6BT (1 Viewer)

[Mr Cimarron]

Looks like I have room to play with.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

So here is the magic combo. I’ll need a 3/4” spacer and clock the horn about an inch back to clear the lines. I can get my fingers over the horn with the hood closed.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Makes sense, intake is farther forward because it's between cylinders 3-4, not 4-5. Nice man

 

[davegonz]

Yep. Looks like that will work. What about your steering column shaft?

Man, that 70 series front end is as limiting as an FJ55. It's tight.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Yep. Looks like that will work. What about your steering column shaft?

Man, that 70 series front end is as limiting as an FJ55. It's tight.

I have two pieces I can weld together to work but I’m going wait until I make another parts run to @joekatana. It’s easy to figure out what I need at his place because I can look at another 70.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I have a 70 series eBay rad showing up tomorrow but I did some digging and it may be a bit tall due to it sitting over the crossmember. I threw in my old 80 series rad it just to see. It’s a bit wide but may work. Second photo is my 80 showing how little space I am working with. I also think a 60 series rad will work also. That would be nice since I can get a Champion and have them move ports around if needed.

 

[mjosoba]

My 80 rad (94) is about 31” wide. That mounting flange on the passenger side could be trimmed and bring it to 30 7/8”. Give or take maybe 1/2”. My 62 rad is...

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I got the HZJ75 rad in today and placed it in the truck. Doesn’t work as it sits on the crossmember. The hood closes but it kisses the rad cap so I would need to go up an inch or move the crossmember. Not doing that. Next up is finding a 60 radiator to try out. The 70 rad is probably getting returned.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Picked up a 60 series rad from @bottombracket for testing. It seems like it’s going to work. Plenty of room down low but still would get some air. The core actually fits almost perfectly width wise. @davegonz was the Champion you have any bigger in the dimensions that you noticed? That is the direction I think I will go and figure out how to mount it.

 

[davegonz]

Cim, I didn't notice any big differences in dimensions with the Champion. Check my thread out for info on how to get champion to move any if the inlets. Champion will do it for cheap if your set up requires it.

I do notice that the aluminum works really well at transferring heat.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Cim, I didn't notice any big differences in dimensions with the Champion. Check my thread out for info on how to get champion to move any if the inlets. Champion will do it for cheap if your set up requires it.

I do notice that the aluminum works really well at transferring heat.

Yeah I’m a fan of Champion. Put one in the BJ40 and had them move the inlet.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Last of the projects for a few weeks. Off to Japan on Wednesday for vacation. I hacked off the front mounts from the mine truck frame. I cleaned up one to make sure it’s reusable before I waste time on the other. Cleaned up well with a new used cup from the 80 scrap pile. I also cut out the front crossmember on the 75 frame to reuse with the mounts. I was hoping to have the body permanently mounted before the trip but didn’t meet that goal.

 

[SNLC]

Hard to meet goals or deadlines on a custom built truck.

Have fun!

Cheers

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Back from Japan with this past week used for jet lag and adapting to 100 degrees here now. Today was the first day motivated enough to get back to it. I got the 60 series Champion in yesterday but will need to figure out how to mount it. It also looks like I will need to cut out the rad support to move the radiator about two inches forward so I can get a 16” puller fan in. It wasn’t even close with my cardboard fan used for mock-up. The other option would be to use it as a pusher but I think that’s a bad idea for cooling and for front mounted inter cooler. I could fit two 10” fans but I think one 16” would be better.
I’ll also need to move the filler neck as it is all up in my AC pulley although may not matter if the rad moved forward a bit. I’ll get back at it tomorrow after thinking about it.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Threw on one of the Kut Snake flares I got from @c2dfj45 for a quick glimpse before storing them away until needed. They cover the 35’s nicely. It’s about the same coverage as my deflared 80 with the same tire.
In other news I ordered a 16” electric puller fan that is a hair over 2” thick to try to fit later today. The Maradyne fan I have in the 80 that I used for measuring is over 3”.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I put this on IG, but the contour fans I run aren't very deep, and pull through a ton of air with their integrated shroud. Might be worth a look.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I put this on IG, but the contour fans I run aren't very deep, and pull through a ton of air with their integrated shroud. Might be worth a look.

Looks like they are around 3-3.5" think which is the same as the 16 " Maradyne I was planning on using. I'll see how the Spal I ordered fits tonight. Ordered off Amazon so I can easily return it if needed.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Back at the intake horn issue. I had to stop thinking about it for awhile. I really wanted to keep the grid heater and then it dawned on me why not cut the intake horn down instead of deleting the grid heater. Now it only kisses the hood which I had the same issue in the 80 which a dent/hole in the brace fixed. I can either do that or raise the body a washer width higher. Either way I will bring it to work to have it welded back together and call it done.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Can you get a boot on with how close it is to the injection line?

For a guy in texas who insists on no AC, it's weird to me that you *have* to keep the grid heater

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Can you get a boot on with how close it is to the injection line?

For a guy in texas who insists on no AC, it's weird to me that you *have* to keep the grid heater

Yes. The angle of the photo is a bit deceiving.