75 40 build (2 Viewers)

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Nice job I have been there and done that. Looks great keep up the pictures.
 
seating problems

As i opted to make the rear floor level i had to brace and drill&tap places for seats, seat belts, notch for tank ,should have put aux tank in
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Time to remove tub

Okay, now its time for the body to come off and flip over,much easyer to weld on. all seams were notch welded sealed and painted with POR 15 .Angle anded to install mud flaps front ,side ,and rear
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barnyard paint

My computer crashed about this time soom pics are in diferent folders (Being a redneck how would i know).So we continue at the paint ,which is a toyota freeborn red.Had to paint in summer as its cold here in canada in winter,but lots of bugs in spring and summer.The inside and firewall i sprayed with paintable box liner
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engine and drive line

While most of the work was done on the body it was time to adress the drive line .I picked up a 75 45 that was a total basket case however i was going to use the full floater behind the 6.2 and it had all kinds of good parts. The 6.2 i got for a case of beer(24 pack) and that was all it was worth,wound up with a total rebuild after all said and done. rebuilt both diffs and installed LOK RITE locker in rear.fabed up axel wrap bar and went for OLD MAN EMU ride.
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engine over haul

The block was bored 30 over and one sleve installed,crank polished, heads done with crss drill update to prevent cracking,pump rebuilt ,new injectorsand glows,every thingdone right to the flywheel.
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No im not talented just take my time and try and figure things out there is lots of stuff that had to be redone that the pics dont show
 
engine placement

In my case the engine mounts(AA adapters)were centered 10 1/2 inches from the rear of front shock mount bottom mount 3/4 inch above frame.The rear transfere case mount was fabed and old engine mounts used
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rear mounts

The rear mount bracket was a little harder to fab without warping. I took diffy studs from old diff and used them for rear brace.You can see exaust brackets on cross tube thought it good idea to do it now.
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if you did all of this in like a week you a re a freaking mad man! how long have you been working on this?!!

absolutely BEAUTIFUL!
 
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front end

Time for the front end. The fenders are new everything else had to be repaired, lots of metal and bondo
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before the body gos on

I think its a good idea to set your rear diff angle after engine and tranny are are tacked in ( not welded solid yet). Point rear diff yoke straight at transfer case when runing cardan joint.Tack spring perches and wrap bar mount ,remove and weld solid.Im lucky as i contract wrench for a logging co.and have a lot of the tools. The wrap bar was made from 11/4 box 1/4 walls 2 5/8 hyms joints on dead end ,the end of a KENWORTH shock end for the live end mounted to a 2 inch drop from the cross tube with another 5/8 hyms.
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front diff

The front diff was much more dificult,I attemted to make jig to cut and turn finally took it to our local TLC guru JOHN BARON E4 Auto Repair. He turned it 12 degrees, spring purches 8 deg. camber 4 deg. to handle the bigger tires.SORRY not many pics of this they are somewhere on the computer after it crashed.
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engine install

I took all meaurments for engine install the last time the body was on of coarse had to change them so had the body on and off 4 times. For the Saginauge steering to clear had to move engine over 1/2 inch.This was done by putting one spacer on the left hand motor mount and leaveing the other out(spacer from 6.2 with an automatic)AA adapters position 10 1/2 inch from rear of front shock mount to center of mount, mount about 3/4 in above frame. Rad moved to the right 1 inch and forward 1 inch. note;It was probably not important that i move it ahead after i built the shroud.Had to use 17 in flex fan with 1 in spacer with a 3/4 pilot hole for the water pump.This gave me 2 inches of room between heads and firewall. 2 1/2 between fan and rad.
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prime pump

The 6.2 is a real b***h to start when you run out of fuel or change the filters.So a 7 lb elec fuel pump is installed at the tank, a check valve is installed so the mechanical pump can do its thing under normal operations .A gate valve is turned off when the electric pump is turned on the fuel goes directly to the filters.After the engine is primed the gate valve is turned on and the electric pump off.And away she goes,its really very simple and works good out in the bush.
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heater

With AA,s adapter for the 465 i had to notch the front of the heater the flapper and weld a plate in for defog air.
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front end clip

Well been away for a while so i got to puting the front clip on .On construction i elected to build the rear sill from 3 in box ,big mistake dont do it .it must be 2 1/2 so i had to lift the front cowel up 1/2 inch fpr the fender lines and mounts to half ass resemble fitting with soom pushing and pulling and some redrilling it didnt turn out to bad
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