'74 FJ40 Resurrection (1 Viewer)

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Herald, CA
I've always been fond of these rigs and came into possession of this 1974 FJ40 via family. It ran when parked about 5 years ago and appears intact other than missing the air filter and fuel filter. I'm procuring those and doing an engine oil change and other fiddly bits to see if it in fact runs.

Are there are tips out there on resurrecting one of these? Cautionary tales?

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Welcome to the site. Looks like a very nice 40. I'd not operate the throttle, because the air clesner been off for yrs. I think you need to see if there's any debris and look down the carb. I'd pull the plugs and squirt so oil in the cylders. You might let it soak. I would want to rotate the engine by the crank 2 revolutions by hand to insure the engine is clear thru all 4 strokes. Disconnect the fuel line from the pump.
Crank with the plugs out to build oil pressure. Supply gas from a gas can. Maybe fill the carb thru the vent.
 
Somebody put the front springs on backwards. They call it a shackle reversal. The brakes are quite a rabbit hole. Looks like a good start and you came to the right place with questions. Cheers.
 
I've always been fond of these rigs and came into possession of this 1974 FJ40 via family. It ran when parked about 5 years ago and appears intact other than missing the air filter and fuel filter. I'm procuring those and doing an engine oil change and other fiddly bits to see if it in fact runs.

Are there are tips out there on resurrecting one of these? Cautionary tales?

View attachment 3831922
Plan for double the amount of time for each project because of the rust. Getting the rusty bolts off takes longer than the actual work sometimes. A three pack of brass drifts and many wire wheels goes a long way.
 
Welcome to the site. Looks like a very nice 40. I'd not operate the throttle, because the air clesner been off for yrs. I think you need to see if there's any debris and look down the carb. I'd pull the plugs and squirt so oil in the cylders. You might let it soak. I would want to rotate the engine by the crank 2 revolutions by hand to insure the engine is clear thru all 4 strokes. Disconnect the fuel line from the pump.
Crank with the plugs out to build oil pressure. Supply gas from a gas can. Maybe fill the carb thru the vent.
I used to put gas in the carb of my old gocart and I was wondering if that would work with these so thanks.
 
Looks like a cool rig that has been used as intended: congrats.

I'm in the process of resurrecting a '72 that was off the road for an unknown number of years. I followed much of the advice already given, but have a couple more thoughts to add.

1) I would remove the carb from the truck and give it a good cleaning with carb/choke cleaner. If you carefully remove the air horn (i.e. the top of the carb) you can clean out the bowl and check the condition of the jets, needle and float, and accelerator pump. Reinstall the carb with a new gasket to prevent vacuum leaks.
2) Remove the fuel tank and have it hot tanked at a rad shop. It will come back squeaky clean but bare metal. If the tank doesn't seem *too* terrible, you can maybe get away with swishing some diesel around inside the tank. I like to throw in a length of chain in there too, to loosen up any deposits and flakes on the bottom of the tank. Rinse it out as best you can.
3) Replace the soft fuel lines and add an inline fuel filter if there isn't one. A clear plastic filter will give you a sense of what kind of crud is still in the tank, and will allow you to easily see if the fuel pump is working or not.
4) I like the Vice Grip Garage trick of using two stoke oil for the first start. Fill the carb bowl with it, and dump some right down the yap, as he says. Two stroke oil has more lubricity than gasoline.

Good luck!

Oh - and it looks like you're going to have to source some wipers!
 
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