74 FJ40 Clutch Master & Slave Swap

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Joined
Sep 1, 2010
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Location
Boise, ID
This isn't a request for advice, but a little bit of information regarding a recent (as in I just finished showering the crud off) repair to my 78 FJ40. I figure if putting this down in a place that I've gone to for help before saves one bloodly knuckle or trip to the parts store it would be worthwhile.

A couple of weeks ago "something" went wrong with my Master Cylinder. I was leaking hydraulic fluid onto my foot and the clutch went completely soft. After a ride-of-shame tow home I figured it was time to swap out the master and while I was at it I'd get the slave swapped too.

I ended up going through my local NAPA store to get the master, slave, and a new hydraulic hose after ordered them "online" where the parts were "in the warehouse". I think for NAPA the "warehouse" is a euphemism for "at another store". Their system showed that I could use one of four 9" or 10" hoses. I ended up having to pay almost as much for shipping on the hose than what it cost.

When I went to install the hose, the 10" was too short. You really need a 12" or 13". Luckily I was able to search for hoses by connection type (M10 x1 female one end, male on the other) and size. By the time it was all done I was three trips to the local NAPA store for parts.

I hooked everything up and although I was getting a little air to come through when bleeding, it wouldn't bleed. I was just too frustrated to deal with it, so I left it for a few days. I knew the line wasn't blocked, but I disconnected it at the master to try and blow some air through. While I was at it I pushed in the clutch and .......nothing. It ended up the push rod clevis was too far in on the push rod. I simply set it at the same length as the old set was.

This wasn't anything I had read when researching my problem.

It seemed to me that some of the setup would need to be exactly the same, but there I go making an assumption. I had to play with things a few times to get it right, but I finally prevailed and am back on the road.

If I had to do it all over again I would have gone ahead and paid the $50 or so to get an all-new steel braided hose to replace the one hydraulic hose and the old steel line. Thirty-four years of being connected to the old system really got in the way. I think If I had replaced the line I would have shaved hours off of the repair, as well as a few bloody knuckles and a lot of frustration. What should have been an easy job was anything but.
 
This is very timely as I am hunting the length of hard line that runs from the Clutch Master along the firewall to the hose that terminates on firewall.

I have two Japanese 3/16 Steel Brake Lines I bought at Advance with 10mm brake line fittings.

One is 40" the other is 51."

But I'm thinking even 51" is too short. I thought I saw on JT Outfitters or SOR that it should be 65"

Can anyone confirm?
 
I've seen 65" listed in other places and I'd rather have too much than too little. If I had the resources I'd have swapped out that entire line. Would have shaved a lot of time off of the repair, and lot of frustration.
 
I'm pretty sure they are the same size. Length is important. I think I remember putting a rear brake hose on for my clutch hose when I put a 79 motor in my 70. I thin it needs to be 12 or 13 inches if you are using the stock hard line.
 
Just to clarify. I used a new style rear hose with the 10 mm fittings.
 

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