‘71 40 brake cylinders replace or rebuild?? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Aug 10, 2015
Threads
43
Messages
133
Location
Austin
I have a leaking cylinder on my ’71 FJ40. I’ve looked for replacements but not a lot of luck yet. Anyone with some sources would be appreciated. I pulled the wheel off the Cruiser today and it looks like the right side cylinder is leaking ( what do y’all think? ) Is it possible or an option to rebuild the cyclinders or should I just buy new ones? I was thinking of doing a disc swap but that seems like an astronomical pain in the ass. Any thoughts?

IMG_4670.jpeg


IMG_4668.jpeg


IMG_4666.jpeg


IMG_4669.jpeg


IMG_4674.jpeg
 
I just replaced all 8. Spray the all hose connection and the bolts now (inside and out). The flare wrench is worth having. The Toyota brake spoon is very handy. FJ Parts have the cylinders. I had to thin the fat end of the shoes to fit the slots. The adjusting end slot isn't tapered front to back like my old ones were. There was thread about the spoon, that where I got mine. I'll go look at the bank and see who that was.

City Racer had the spoon $22. The 4 front cylinders was $165. Both are in the Vendor list

My 72 sat from prior to 2010. I had ordered a clutch, brake master and the 4 rear cylinder plus shoes - but got sick and nearly died so that stuff set in a box until recently. I knew the clutch slave was bad. I had a kit but I couldn't get the bleeder loose - so I bought a new clutch master and slave plus a braided stainless line for like $130 off ebay - the line is like 2' to long but it was like $50 more to get the shorter line. Pro-tip attach the line to the slave first as its a screw in; the master end is a slip fitting.

I use a Mighty Vac for bleeding the brakes. I tried anti seize compound and then teflon tape to get the bleeder screw threads to seal; no luck - but the like 70 year old can of aviation Permatex from dad did the trick.
 
Last edited:
I rebuilt all of mine on a rig that sat for 30 years. I had never done it before, and it was a bit of messy work, so it took me awhile. Work to cost ratio = buy new. If you have the time and enjoy the work, do a rebuild. It's pretty simple.
 
If I rebuild them can I just unbolt them, rebuild them and bolt them back on with the same settings or adjustment or do I have to start over and set up the drums ( which is a PITA)?
Where would I get the cylinder rebuild kit?
 
You could hone them in place. Really pitted bores and stuck fast bleed nipples should be expected. I would do new shoes if the old ones are saturated with brake juice - so you will be setting them up again.

I had to order red rubber grease - came from England not too expensive $10/oz

 
Is there a thread and video to walk through cylinder rebuild? Should I just buy new cyclinders?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom