- Thread starter
- #21
One more of Locked79s HDJ79
70 Series Intercooler Debate (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ForealBoreal
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #22
First one is a shot of a 1HZ with non factory AC (red one)
Second is a 1HD-T in a 75
Lastly is my truck showing how tight it is there.
I am leaning more towards running a center inlet plenum because I think it spreads the air more evenly to the cylinders.
The battery is about a centimetre off from the coolant overflow. The only way to run piping would be to come from under and squeeze between the overflow/power power steering pump container. I would have to duck under the rad hose and just miss the fan. Even moving that would be too tight moving it for a front mounted plenum because the battery is right there.
Second is a 1HD-T in a 75
Lastly is my truck showing how tight it is there.
I am leaning more towards running a center inlet plenum because I think it spreads the air more evenly to the cylinders.
The battery is about a centimetre off from the coolant overflow. The only way to run piping would be to come from under and squeeze between the overflow/power power steering pump container. I would have to duck under the rad hose and just miss the fan. Even moving that would be too tight moving it for a front mounted plenum because the battery is right there.
That's definitely pretty tight under there. Looks like there would be no room at all for front mount piping. Do you have to have all three batteries in the engine bay? If you could put one or two under the floor somewhere it would free up a lot of room
Yeah I second that. Them bats take alot of room.
I'd be looking at largest frontmount possible.
I like the simplicity.
As a general rule, a shorter, thicker core is more effective than a longer thin core, ie something like 18x12x3" will cool better than 24x12x2" core, less restrictive.
keep piping to 2.5", easier to route and less volume so less lag.
use aluminium pipe, it sheds heat far better
relocate batteries under the tray floor
seal the gap between radiator and intercooler, so air must pass through the intercooler
I like the simplicity.
As a general rule, a shorter, thicker core is more effective than a longer thin core, ie something like 18x12x3" will cool better than 24x12x2" core, less restrictive.
keep piping to 2.5", easier to route and less volume so less lag.
use aluminium pipe, it sheds heat far better
relocate batteries under the tray floor
seal the gap between radiator and intercooler, so air must pass through the intercooler
- Thread starter
- #27
W2A is simply not happening at this point....
Batteries are not getting moved. I spent too much $ and time on those trays and battery setup. I don't want to redo it.
Reconsidering the top mount thing. Looking at a big scoop, sealing the hood to the intercooler, biggest and strongest puller I can fit.
Waiting to hear back about the scoop.
Batteries are not getting moved. I spent too much $ and time on those trays and battery setup. I don't want to redo it.
Reconsidering the top mount thing. Looking at a big scoop, sealing the hood to the intercooler, biggest and strongest puller I can fit.
Waiting to hear back about the scoop.
Now your getting somewhere. I assume your talking about a truck with no condesor or AC?
Last edited:
My newly completed top mount with a 10" 750 cfm chinese ebay puller fan reduced my egts by 100 degrees in town and 200 degrees plus on the highway. I wouldn't right off the top mounts ....
- Thread starter
- #30
Post up your setup in the 1hd-t intercooler thread.
These seem to be good numbers.
1 would be to get your front mount cooler regardless of piping etc and spend a weekend day making the brackets to mount it, make a note of the bends you think you will need.once that's done remove cooler it put your grill and lower panel back on and drive around till the next weekend. Pick bends and pipe up during the week.
This way it won't be off the road for to long or cause and inconvenience.
Next weekend do the piping and mark bends with a texta or tape or a tack of weld if you have one avl.
My original set up didn't have enough rubber joins and the brackets started to get cracks so I presume a diesel would shake a lot more.
There will be lots of trimming and making angles on the end of the bends and long pipes to match up funny angles.
Last up mod the grill and lower panel to suit
Mine sits a bit low since the arb bar went on as it sits a bit higher than my old typical Aussie style bar.
So when I'm bothered I'm gojng to get a much taller cooler to sit the same level at the bottom but go all the way up the grill.
This way it won't be off the road for to long or cause and inconvenience.
Next weekend do the piping and mark bends with a texta or tape or a tack of weld if you have one avl.
My original set up didn't have enough rubber joins and the brackets started to get cracks so I presume a diesel would shake a lot more.
There will be lots of trimming and making angles on the end of the bends and long pipes to match up funny angles.
Last up mod the grill and lower panel to suit
Mine sits a bit low since the arb bar went on as it sits a bit higher than my old typical Aussie style bar.
So when I'm bothered I'm gojng to get a much taller cooler to sit the same level at the bottom but go all the way up the grill.
I'm making my own scoop as this was a low budget project and I'm not quite done yet, I'll post up when I'm done.
Big Boy, the number are Fahrenheit...
