2LTE tune-up (intercooler & high-flow turbo) (3 Viewers)

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Joined
Jul 24, 2018
Threads
4
Messages
72
Location
New Zealand
After some initial teething issues with a faulty pump and difficulty bleeding the system I've had the WTA setup running for a month or so and the results are much as expected. EGTs are reduced, the truck makes better top end power and is able to hold that power under high boost far more consistently. The next mod will be the installation of a high-flow version of the CT20 turbo with a billet wheel compressor but I'll write up about that in more detail when the install happens in a couple of weeks time. In the meantime, below are some photos of the intercooler install and the finished product.

The project was far more time consuming than I anticipated as there were numerous complications involved ie. having to mount the radiator on a tricky angle in order to get it to fit inside the factory bumper, having to move the power steering reservoir, map sensor + filter and glow plug relays to fit the intercooler in the engine bay. Additionally the intake pipe between the turbo and cooler had to be made with a series of particular curves to fit in what is a very tight space and also required a small kink in order to clear the valve cover. The design was based on what a number of other forum members have done in their 2LTE LJ78s and a lot of the difficulty in the project was due to there apparently being less space in the Surf engine bay. In truth space was so tight, it was only just possible. Below is proof it can be done in a Surf without losing a battery 💪

The water pump is the regular Bosch type which I mounted between the passenger side battery and wall of the engine bay and it runs from a relay which is switched from an 'ON' wire I tapped into the ignition loom. I painted everything on the front of the truck black to keep things discreet. The brackets for the radiator, pump and other components I made from aluminium, bending when necessary with a small MAPP gas torch. The intake pipes and custom intake manifold are all made from two inch mild steel cut with an angle grinder + cutting disc and then welded with a small MIG. Coolant lines are 19mm. Total coolant capacity is only about 2 litres but the radiator gets plenty of air flow through the bumper and is presumably aided by the viscous fan and as yet the lack of volume hasn't been as issue. I have no coolant temp sensor in the system so am unsure of how much heating is happening so time will tell as to whether this is an issue or not.

There is a long gradual hill climb near where I live which is useful for testing the effect of various mods on EGTs. Pre-intercooler max temps were 1000F (post turbo) holding at 100kmph in 5th gear. Post intercooler running stock boost of 10PSI max dropped to 840F and with boost notched up to 12PSI I saw a further drop down to 780F. I suspect when if and when I increase boost further with the new turbo I will see a further drop and possibly the more efficient turbo itself will also contribute. It's too early to comment of any improvements in fuel economy. Around town the difference seems minimal however I suspect on the open road under sustained boost the results will be more positive.

The general performance of the truck is still somewhat unsatisfactory (fellow 2LTE owners will understand), but it's not far off acceptable under boost now. The main remaining issue is with the abysmal spool of the stock turbo but I'm hopeful the high-flow will help some. I have played a bit with adjusting the fuel screw which definitely increases power but also increases smoke so for now it is turned back to stock fueling and any tuning will be revisited post turbo install. The truck already has a 2.5 inch exhaust + dump pipe and cooling system is top notch. I only see 5oC or so of temp increase above the thermostat opening now whereas I'd see +30oC before I started making improvements. It's no wonder these engines have a bad rep consider how woefully inadequate the factory cooling system is 😬

Time will tell as to whether all the expense and effort is worth it but the new turbo is not far away so hopefully onwards an upwards!

Before:

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Don't be sucked into the "high flow turbo" marketing BS. The reason the CT20 sucks is because of the ancient turbine. Putting a new expensive compressor into it will be money wasted.

Get a more modern turbo with better turbine wheel geometry.

Your EGT readings are very cold. Either you're not getting true temperature readings or your engine is really underfuelling.
 
I understand that even an improved CT20 won't match the performance of a more modern turbo but on the other hand it won't require any adapters etc either. Possibly I should have considered that more seriously but I'm committed now so I don't really want to start that discussion.

My aim with this vehicle has been to keep things moderate and really I'm only trying to turn it into a reliable little work horse so not looking for anything spectacular.

The EGTs might have been a bit misleading. They are post-turbo though and if I really get after it I can get them 100F or so higher. I don't think it's under fueling at all and really I need more air before adding more fuel.
 
You'd be much better off with a pre-turbo pyrometer.
 
Does anyone make an aftermarket MHI turbo which uses a CT20 exhaust housing for straight bolt-up?
 
kinugawa i do believe, i got mine with the k03 flange and built my manifold to match instead of that stupid 3 bolt bs
 
Excellent fabrication work; looks really good. Glad its made the improvements you expected.

I think with more tuning you will have more power, still low EGT, and no black smoke (unless you push too hard before turbo spools). If I want to accelerate quick, I don't floor it from stop, I wait until the turbo is spooled, then push hard. No smoke then.

My spill valve adjust screw is in about 7/8. I also use a bleed valve that lowers the boost curve to the computer (as seen by boost sensor). So 0-18psi actual pressure looks to the computer like 0-10psi. This moves the fuel compensation curve down, so I don't overfuel at low boost, but can still achieve correct fuel at high boost. If that makes sense.

So I think you have a lot more power potential. But maybe wait until the new turbo is in.

I do agree with Dougal that the turbine is the main issue on the CT20A. It's too bad no one has addressed that in the aftermarket units. That said, I can see 17psi by 2100rpm with my tune, and it holds up to 20psi to 4000rpm. If anything the stock turbo is almost too big already for the motor.
 
Excellent fabrication work; looks really good. Glad its made the improvements you expected.

I think with more tuning you will have more power, still low EGT, and no black smoke (unless you push too hard before turbo spools). If I want to accelerate quick, I don't floor it from stop, I wait until the turbo is spooled, then push hard. No smoke then.

My spill valve adjust screw is in about 7/8. I also use a bleed valve that lowers the boost curve to the computer (as seen by boost sensor). So 0-18psi actual pressure looks to the computer like 0-10psi. This moves the fuel compensation curve down, so I don't overfuel at low boost, but can still achieve correct fuel at high boost. If that makes sense.

So I think you have a lot more power potential. But maybe wait until the new turbo is in.

I do agree with Dougal that the turbine is the main issue on the CT20A. It's too bad no one has addressed that in the aftermarket units. That said, I can see 17psi by 2100rpm with my tune, and it holds up to 20psi to 4000rpm. If anything the stock turbo is almost too big already for the motor.
Thanks for that GTS 👍 Inspired by your thread from many years ago. I appreciate the info on tuning too. I was hoping you'd chime in actually as I wanted to ask if you know anywhere I can buy one of the bleed valves? I'm keen to give a basic home tune a go.

I think I have the gist of how to go about it. Fuel screw controls base fueling across the whole range (adding fuel). Bleed valve controls fuel on boost (subtracting fuel) and the impact is greater the higher the boost. That about right? Seems a good basic system you guys have sussed out. So I could use this to run things a bit lean on boost (lower EGTs, better fuel economy, no smoke) but a bit rich down low (better low-rpm power and initial turbo spool?)

Re turbo, I hear ya but I'm hoping I might get some small gains from the compressor side anyways, plus I'll have peace of mind running a fresh turbo.

This is probably a bit insane but I actually had the new turbo effectively rebuilt by a local company with a good rep here last week. I had doubts about it's quality having read a bunch of negative reviews. Anyways, the guys here emailed me after they'd opened it up to say it was a good thing I'd sent it to them as it had a number of issues. They weren't very impressed with the build quality at all. Anyway moving on with life, I should at least have a good reliable turbo in the truck soon.
 
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Not sure where you are located but I got the pneumatic air controller at princess auto in Canada a couple months ago. You need the controller itself, a filter, and then the hosing to install:



Your install looks great. Do you have links to the parts used?
Thanks for that 👍 Are you able to give me any more info regards the speed controller? Maybe a photo of your setup? I'm in NZ and it doesn't look like these guys ship outside of NA but I will enquire. The more I think about this, the more I think I need one! There is a filter in the line to the MAP sensor already. Is this the filter you are talking about?

Re intercooler. Everything came from Frozenboost.com and they're been pretty good to deal with. I started with their aftermarket version of the Bosch pump which failed more or less immediately. They were good about it though and issued a full refund. I ended up buying a genuine Bosch from Australia and everything has been working good as gold since.

Rad is this one:

Cooler:

The pump and filler cap and everything else is on their website too. Sing out if you want any more info. Happy to provide. If you're able to set me on the right track regards the speed controller that'd me much appreciated.
 
The new turbo has been in for a week and the truck drives very nicely with it :cool: I'm not sure I'd say it spools hugely faster than the OEM CT20 but it definitely does give a bit more pick up in the low RPMs. Getting into third gear when driving up steep hills from a stop is a bit more forgiving which I'm very pleased about. I can let the revs drop to 1750rpms in third and it will still pick up from there. Previously, anything below 2000ish was a dead zone. The best thing is it seems to be a LOT more consistent in the way it builds boost which really aids the driveability of the vehicle. The old turbo did sweet f#@k all until 2200 rpm and then would pick up with a big 'woosh'. The new turbo just smoothly goes about it's business right from the moment it starts spinning. I'm starting to feel like the overall results will be very positive when I've done some basic tuning. Additionally, thus far there don't seem to be any unforeseen downsides (touch wood) as has often been the case with other non OEM parts I have fitted.

Curiously, the old turbo only needed a few turns of the screw in the boost controller to bump it up to 12PSI but the new turbo needed double that at least. It also only ran 7PSI before I fitted the controller and this really sent the EGTs rocketing up. Possibly that was because the guys who I had work on it increased the size of the waste gate but I don't think they changed the actuator spring.

I took the truck on it's first extended trip since installation of the intercooler last weekend and managed 9.3lt/100kms on the return journey so I'm definitely seeing an improvement in fuel economy too. I feel there is more potential on that front. Now waiting on the last of the parts to arrive for the bleed off valve.

Wondering whether or not I should keep the old turbo. It's done 180,000kms but there is nothing obviously wrong with it. Is there likely to be much value in an old original CT20? Better to keep it as a back up?

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Looks great, and glad it's an improvement! Thanks for the review of it's performance thus far. I'd like to write more, but gotta run now. Will try later.

Also, I've never had fuel economy that good in my LJ78! Congrats to you on that. Best I've had is 10.3l/100km I think.
 
Looks great, and glad it's an improvement! Thanks for the review of it's performance thus far. I'd like to write more, but gotta run now. Will try later.

Also, I've never had fuel economy that good in my LJ78! Congrats to you on that. Best I've had is 10.3l/100km I think.
Cheers GTS 👍 The improvement isn't earth shattering, but it's looking like it's definitely worth while. I may never know what a TD04 or similar would have been like. Probably miles better! Having said that, I think I'm going to end up in a good place performance-wise anyway, so I'm not too regretful. I'm actually glad I had it rebuilt too in spite of the additional cost as I definitely value reliability.

Re fuel economy, I've had between 9.5 and 10lt/100kms in favourable conditions a number of times pre intercooler install so I still think I can do better! No doubt the 30 inch tyres help. There was a guy who posted on your old 2LTE thread who claimed he was getting under 9 in his Surf with no intercooler so I can't quite figure that one out. He also said the timing in that truck had been advanced so maybe that helped.

Looking forward to playing with the tuning 💪 Someday I'd like to try a foam Uni Filter too. They claim their filters are 24% less restrictive than a stock paper one and they make one that will fit in the standard Surf air box. Do you have much of a gauge on how the K & N works for you? No stress to reply!

 

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