- Thread starter
- #261
Thank you!! I’m still trimming and fitting but I’m starting to like it.
6bt cummins NV4500 1996 LX450 swap
- Thread starter Major Tom
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #262
I got it wrapped up. To cut and trim the fender, I used a jigsaw and a pneumatic mini belt sander. The seller sent some U-shaped trim molding. It fit snug but I went ahead and added some hot glue to the trim as well.
longrangeamerica.com
Long Range America | 80 Series Landcruiser Snorkel by Radius Fabrications, Short Unfinished ( Raw Stainless )
The Radius Fabrication 4 inch stainless steel snorkel has been designed to improve performance whilst maintaining a clean look that follows the body lines.
longrangeamerica.com
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
This is a great build!
I'm swapping a 6BT into (a very non-pure) FJ40, (thread in the hardcore corner) and am wondering where this air filter you are referencing from @PIP is from. I'm concerned my basic cone in a tube filter plan won't be enough air, although I'm keeping the engine stockish for now. It is very very tight inside my engine bay.
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Will Van
GOLD Star
@PIP sells them on his website: 80 Series Landcruiser Cast Airbox - https://powertrain-integration.com/products/80-series-landcruiser-cast-airbox
Unfortunately, I think they're sold out at the moment. And they're designed for the 80 series chassis (FYI).
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
Thank you for the link!
They’re a beautiful piece of work.
I’ll see what I can make work and keep it in mind.
- Thread starter
- #266
Greetings! I apologize for the late response. It’s been a busy month. It is tight under the hood on this 80 series so I’m sure it’s super tight in an FJ40. I threw the stock dodge filter box in to show how tight it is.
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
Yup. It took me all of 30 seconds to realize my stock Cummins box wasn’t going to work. Stock tundra box I had on the shelf is a little smaller, and a have a cone type in a 6” tube to work with. I’m a ways off from fabbing my snorkel but just trying to look ahead.
You’ve got an awesome build here!
- Thread starter
- #268
I have been wanting to do a body lift and move my motor back to run my stock Cummins mechanical fan. I had been watching @PIP ‘s website for his lift kit to see when they would be back in stock. In the meantime, a used kit was offered for sale on the Facebook - Toyota 80 Series USA page. I decided to pull the trigger and buy the used kit. After sending the PayPal payment, it took a week for this guy (Queen Chariot) to actually send it out to me. It arrived missing two of the aluminum spacers and with Toyota stock size body mount bolts. Needless to say, I had to make two extra spacers and address the bolt size (dude wouldn’t reply to my text messages). I should have been patient and waited on the @PIP set…….
80 series Land Cruiser 1 inch Bodylift - https://powertrain-integration.com/products/80-series-land-cruiser-1-inch-bodylift
80 series Land Cruiser 1 inch Bodylift - https://powertrain-integration.com/products/80-series-land-cruiser-1-inch-bodylift
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- Thread starter
- #269
I bought a custom made fan bracket off eBay to shift the fan position toward the center of the radiator.
Right now, I’ve removed the northwest adventure vehicle motor mounts. I’m cutting them up to rebuild them to shift the motor back further toward the firewall.
I’m hoping to have the motor repositioned by Saturday and start putting everything back together. I’m going to take one of my puller fans ( off the radiator) and reverse the polarity and mount on my AC condenser.
Right now, I’ve removed the northwest adventure vehicle motor mounts. I’m cutting them up to rebuild them to shift the motor back further toward the firewall.
I’m hoping to have the motor repositioned by Saturday and start putting everything back together. I’m going to take one of my puller fans ( off the radiator) and reverse the polarity and mount on my AC condenser.
Will Van
GOLD Star
You should have told me - I have a complete PIP body lift kit I could have sold you! And you know I would actually deliver it.
- Thread starter
- #271
lol, I should have checked in with you, and yes; you’re not a shady used car salesman from Florida…..
- Thread starter
- #272
I had a fun day in the shop today. The Northwest Adventure Vehicle motor mounts were difficult to remove. I had to modify some tools to get two of the bottom bolts out.
Currently the transmission mount is out, exhaust is out, and the motor mounts are out. The radiator/Dodge fan is mocked up in position. I currently have approximately half an inch clearance between the fan blade and radiator seam.
Currently the transmission mount is out, exhaust is out, and the motor mounts are out. The radiator/Dodge fan is mocked up in position. I currently have approximately half an inch clearance between the fan blade and radiator seam.
- Thread starter
- #273
I have around 1-1/2 inches of clearance between the radiator fins and the fan clutch. I have around half an inch clearance between the fan blades and the seam on the radiator.
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
Are you worried about it being that close?
Apologies if I missed it, what is the reasoning on staying with the belt driven fan?
Apologies if I missed it, what is the reasoning on staying with the belt driven fan?
- Thread starter
- #275
I’m trying to maximize my air flow across the AC condenser. I’ve had a lot of trouble with my AC. My gut feeling is I’m not getting enough air over the AC condenser ( right now my radiator, AC condenser and intercooler are stacked against each other). The stock Cummins fan pulls around 10,000 cfm (from what I’ve been told). My current spal electric fans pull a total of around 3500 cfm ( when they come on). I’m planning to relocate my intercooler and mount one of the spal fans on the AC condenser and connect it to the AC pressure switch. I’m also going to add a fan shroud to concentrate the air across the fan.
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
Gotcha. That’s a lot of good info. That’s a big difference.
Not sure what my electric set is rated at, a helper ordered it with the radiator. We are stacking an ac condenser but my intercooler had its own fan and liquid circulation and will be somewhere else.
Makes me want to know what my fans are rated at…
- Thread starter
- #277
The truck has been sitting for a few week and I still have to address my transmission mount and several other things before everything goes back together. As of now, I’ve modified my NWAV motor mounts and have the motor in position. The motor is now sitting at a 2.5 degree angle (I’ve been told it needs to be set between 3-5 degrees).
I’m starting my swap over the winter. Do you know why it needs to be between 3-5 degrees?
- Thread starter
- #279
That’s a great questions. I was talking with a hot rodder before I started my swap. He mentioned the 3-5 degree mounting angle to me. Before I mounted my motor, I read through some Cummins specs and what information I could find and found some figures for the Cummins. I’ll get on my laptop and find that data and post up for you to look over.
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
I did a search on that after reading that last night, as I was curious too. I’m about 3 degrees back, just kinda how it fit.
Most all I could find was people talking about maintaining the driveline angle, but most in here are probably way past all that, trying to save a driveshaft or avoid a double cardon.
There was one vague reference specifically to Cummins leaning back, but another that said all systems that matter are pressurized, and we’re off camber anyway…
Now the boat crowd, they’re all at 12* back when at rest but didn’t see why.
