Maybe just a recommendation for best fit in the 80 series in regard to the firewall and trans tunnel clearance?
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6bt cummins NV4500 1996 LX450 swap (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Major Tom
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- #282
If you do a one inch body inch, you’ll have adequate room to move the motor back and clear the trans tunnel. I suggest measuring the angle of both drivelines before you pull your Toyota motor. Also take some good reference measurements of the height of your transfer case. When you build your transmission mount, you’ll have those measurements to get the height right at the transmission mount.Maybe just a recommendation for best fit in the 89 series in regard to the firewall and trans tunnel clearance?
All good suggestions. I do however, hate body lifts. Just my preference.
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- #284
Understood, Sir. I crawled under the truck today to check the clearance with the bellhousing bolts. With this body lift, I have good clearance to remove my bellhousing bolts whenever I need to service my clutch, etc.
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- #285
Now that I’ve moved my motor back and have the Cummins mechanical fan up and running, I’ve started working on the air box and intercooler. I’m also wiring up a pusher fan on my AC condenser. I had a buddy build me a simple air box and flip my intercooler and build a bracket on my frame rails. All of my piping still lines up nicely.
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- #286
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- #287
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- #288
Rear bumper build:
I’m planning to build a heavy rear bumper similar to this:
Based off the design from -
familyadventuresoverlanding.com
(Photo is a screenshot from their video)
I’m planning to build a heavy rear bumper similar to this:
Based off the design from -
Land Cruiser (FZJ80) — Family Adventures Overlanding
familyadventuresoverlanding.com
(Photo is a screenshot from their video)
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- Thread starter
- #289
Trans cooler is installed. I tapped some threads for a temp sensor. No leaks right now.
This trans cooler was a “new - old stock” item I bought off eBay for a bargain price. It has a piece of polycarbonate on the outside to view the oil level.
Right now on the highway I’m averaging between 110-140 degrees F.
This trans cooler was a “new - old stock” item I bought off eBay for a bargain price. It has a piece of polycarbonate on the outside to view the oil level.
Right now on the highway I’m averaging between 110-140 degrees F.
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- Thread starter
- #290
Update on the bumper build.... Things are moving along nicely.
I heard center mounted tires on the rear bumper means you're gay, so I had them mount it on the left side.
I heard center mounted tires on the rear bumper means you're gay, so I had them mount it on the left side.
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- Thread starter
- #291
Warn 8274 bumper mock up:
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- Thread starter
- #292
New gauge cluster is installed and working. The left gauge is a 3 in 1 ( Boost, EGT, Trans temp). Other two are fuel pressure and coolant temp.
Been doing some math and something does not seem to lined up with your set up and the rpms you are getting...
If you are running 35s, nv4500 5th gear is 0.75:1, and 3.55 diff, at 70mph you should only be at around 1800rpm
Am I missing something?
If you are running 35s, nv4500 5th gear is 0.75:1, and 3.55 diff, at 70mph you should only be at around 1800rpm
Am I missing something?
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- #294
That’s a great question. Those calculations are very close to where I’m at. I don’t think the tach on my dash is 100% accurate. I’m feeding the tach with a Dakota digital box that’s measuring rpm’s on my alternator. I had to calibrate the Dakota digital box. To do this, I used a harbor freight rpm meter to measure rpm’s on the crankshaft pulley. This may be causing an inaccurate reading within the calibration.
Also, those online calculators are a mathematical formula and can’t always account for variations in driving conditions and engine efficiency. I’ve had mechanics tell me the online calculators give a good ballpark range.
65mph is where I am seeing the sweet spot in terms of fuel efficiency and rpm’s. I am getting around 20 mpg when I keep it at 65mph and control my shifting.
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- #295
Driving conditions shouldn’t have any effect in a manual transmission.
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- #297
This is my humble opinion…….. In terms of calculating final mph and rpm based off gear ratios, tire size etc; driving conditions would have an impact on mph. I’ve read that driving conditions can cause a 5-10% variation in the online calculators.
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
Something has to slip for there to be any error.
Loaded radius might cause a slight error.
I think your on to something when you talk about calibrating the DD gauges. I’m getting close to doing that on my project, same engine. We upgraded the alternator from the existing 1 wire as my electrician said that sound be more dependable signal, IIRC.
It would affect MPG but definitely not MPH. That 5-10% would be true potential for an automatic or if your clutch is slipping.
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- #300
Please let me know what method you end up using to measure the engines rpm’s when you calibrate your DDB. I would love to find another way to measure mine.
