68’ FJ40 overheating dramas

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Apr 17, 2022
Threads
3
Messages
28
Location
karratha
Hi all

I have a 1968 FJ40 which I use for bull catching in remote Australia out on a cattle station, recently I have been having nothing but trouble with it running hot, I’ve tried every trick in the book (to my knowledge at least) to fix this and I haven’t been very successful with it

Engine temps will reach about 220* Fahrenheit or about 105*Celsius, racing the engine will only dip the temperature by a few degrees, if left to idle the temp will keep slowly climbing higher, but have always shut it off or cooled the rad down by pouring water on it before it got to that stage.

To get everyone up to speed:

-I installed an F145 motor that had been rebuilt years ago that had been in the shed for many years, pulled the head to check for anything majorly wrong after sitting so long and all seemed good

-Flushed out the engine and radiator (which is new) independently shortly after installing it, didn’t get much crap out of the system

-Engine ran quite hot so I replaced the old steel fan for a plastic one that had more fins, made no difference

-Assumed the radiator wasn’t up to the job, as a lot of the time mustering cattle involves idling along at a slow pace, so I installed a 60 series radiator into it which I had modified by a good rad shop, I figured more capacity, more cooling, the 60 series rads obviously have more cores in them

-Engine still ran hot, albeit with the bigger radiator it took alot longer to get hot

-Went up to the tip and robbed a thermo fan set up off of an old Holden astra which has two fans and fits the 60 series rad perfectly after a bit of backyard engineering, blows plenty of air through the radiator as well as the main fan sucking it through

- Pulled head off of motor again, found head gasket to be blown, had the head machined, installed new gasket, all to no avail

-At this stage I was desperate to get this FJ40 going because I had to use it for work. Presumed that the motor either had a major blockage or had a cracked head or block, so pulled it out along with the gearbox and installed a 2F out of a 1978 FJ45 that I knew for a fact ran cool when it was in the original vehicle

-Installed the engine with the same 60 series radiator, and used the same water pump that had come off the old engine, I checked the water pump thoroughly and it looked perfectly fine and clean inside as it’s fairly new

- 2F Engine temps behave pretty much the same as the old F145 used to after I have flushed out this new engine probably 4 or 5 times

I’m officially out of ideas on what to do and I’m starting to tear out my hair, I’m sure the radiator is fine as it’s brand new and clean inside, the block of the new 2F I reverse flushed with a high pressure hose, and is perfectly clean now after a fair bit of crap came out. I did the same with the radiator and all was clean.

Maybe a long shot, but could a blocked exhaust cause engine overheating? The 2F has extractors and is running through a hot dog bolted to where the passenger side step used to be

Any ideas would be really appreciated

Kris
 
Have you pulled the plug on the block that on the intake/exhaust side. Pulling plug might give you an idea what block looks like install. Have done any chemical flush of just water. I would also suggest using a hand held digital thermometer to read the temperature in different area to get an idea where a possible blockage could be.
 
Have you pulled the plug on the block that on the intake/exhaust side. Pulling plug might give you an idea what block looks like install. Have done any chemical flush of just water. I would also suggest using a hand held digital thermometer to read the temperature in different area to get an idea where a possible blockage could be.
Yep, have pulled the plug multiple times, haven’t used any chemicals yet just water. I’ll try and get my hands on a thermometer soon
 
If its running too lean it will run hot. Same with too retarded IIRC. Put in a 165 degree thermostat so it open sooner. Mine has never really run hot unless in low range low pushing mud with the hubs. I have a brass 4 core to put in. I also have a giant rear heater.
 
I have Played with the timing and mixture many times and the engine is running very well, no adjustments made any difference to the overheating problem, and as for the thermostat I have it completely removed at this stage
If its running too lean it will run hot. Same with too retarded IIRC. Put in a 165 degree thermostat so it open sooner. Mine has never really run hot unless in low range low pushing mud with the hubs. I have a brass 4 core to put in. I also have a giant rear heater.
 
Yep, have pulled the plug multiple times, haven’t used any chemicals yet just water. I’ll try and get my hands on a thermometer soon

The Evapo-Rust product is a chemical that will desolve rust without affecting other materials. If rust is blocking passages this could clear it out. I'd run it for the 2 or 3 days before flushing. If your rig has a heater, I'd run it too to allow the water to circulate through the core(s).
 
The Evapo-Rust product is a chemical that will desolve rust without affecting other materials. If rust is blocking passages this could clear it out. I'd run it for the 2 or 3 days before flushing. If your rig has a heater, I'd run it too to allow the water to circulate through the core(s).
I’ll make sure to pick up some when I get into town next, I was considering filling it up with vinegar and leaving it for a few weeks but this might be a quicker way
 
Yes, a blocked or crushed exhaust can build up heat. It needs to be free flowing.
 
Yes, a blocked or crushed exhaust can build up heat. It needs to be free flowing.
I will unbolt the hot dog and take it for a drive see if that makes any difference. I’ll have to find some ear plugs first
 
Maybe some of the internal passages are plugged with flakes of silicon or someone used several bottles of stop leak. I would buy a cheap laser thermometer and check the engine and radiator all over to see where its heating up the worst. $25 at harbor china.
 
Took the fj for a quick spin just then and once it had reached operating temp, released the rad cap to let some pressure out as I thought mabye the cap was faulty, noticed the water coming out of the rad was pretty filthy. Looks like it will take more than water to get whatever’s in there out

So when I get into town in the next few days I will buy a few bottles of treatment and some rust buster of some kind and give that a go
I will also try and track down a digital thermometer
Maybe some of the internal passages are plugged with flakes of silicon or someone used several bottles of stop leak. I would buy a cheap laser thermometer and check the engine and radiator all over to see where its heating up the worst. $25 at harbor china.
 
If you have big chunks of rust flakes breaking loose, those can easily plug the tubes at the top of the radiator and block a lot of cooling from happening. Take the radiator hoses loose from the engine, duct tape a garden hose into the lower rad hose and turn on the garden full blast and see what flushes out of the upper hose.
 
Maybe some of the internal passages are plugged with flakes of silicon or someone used several bottles of stop leak. I would buy a cheap laser thermometer and check the engine and radiator all over to see where its heating up the worst. $25 at harbor china.
Took the cruiser for a short drive this morning and after the engine got to operating temp I half opened the radiator cap as I wanted to see how much pressure had built up as I was suspecting the radiator cap, as I opened it I noticed the water in the radiator was a dark greyish brown colour which was interesting as when I checked it before I left the water was perfectly clear.

This is all after I’ve flushed the engine and rad many times so looks like some chemicals may be in order

I’m still skeptical that this will fix it as I seem to be getting good flow from the water pump and through the radiator, and I’m only gently idling around checking cows with it at this stage, not driving hard or putting the engine under a lot of load
 
You should also try to Back Flush. Connect a garden hose to the heater inlet (top connection on the head) remove the radiator cap. Open the hose, and let the water flow out the radiator…..then start the rig with the hose open and bring her up to temperature. You do all this ‘after’ your chemical flush.
Prestone Antifreeze used to sell a kit for this, not sure if available down under.
Another thing is a cooler thermostat, or just remove the thermostat guts. Also an FJ60 water pump and if I’m not mistaken, I think there is also a Toyota fan/clutch assembly made for high temperature environments, like equatorial areas.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom