Anybody have any experience with working on/restoring older FJ's. Most of the threads I've read about involve '70's or newer vehicles. I'm thinking of buying an all original '64. The seller said that the older FJ's were made of thicker gauge steel and therefore don't have as many rust issues. Is this correct? Also, how difficult is it to lacate parts including sheet metal? The body does has a small amount of rot and I'm leery of getting an older FJ. Is rust a big problem with these vehicles?
"64 FJ vs. newer (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter crawlingforcover
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middlecalf
SILVER Star
i love my 1964 
If you get an early one i would def keep it stock, not many stock ones around any more
Post up some photos!!!
we LOVE photos
If you get an early one i would def keep it stock, not many stock ones around any more
Post up some photos!!!
we LOVE photos
I am doing a 1962, Not doing a true 100% restore, mainly the floors are not OEM. There are quite a few of the older ones with restore threads you just need to search, but if you are doing a 64 here is your bible. Long but every detail you could ask for
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj25-owners-group/297786-destins-1964-fj40-fst-restore-thread.html
The older ones had thicker steal and a lot less rust problems. If you get it, and I would recommend it as I love the ones from the 60's do a thread with lots of pictures. The differences are far as working on them is not much different. Nothing major different as far was working on them till the smog stuff comes in.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj25-owners-group/297786-destins-1964-fj40-fst-restore-thread.html
The older ones had thicker steal and a lot less rust problems. If you get it, and I would recommend it as I love the ones from the 60's do a thread with lots of pictures. The differences are far as working on them is not much different. Nothing major different as far was working on them till the smog stuff comes in.
I've got a '63...
Hey there,
I have a 63 factory soft top. Other that the tops were only made to fit mine for a short while I love it, it is very capable off road and everyone likes to see it drive by. Or so it seems. Parts are not difficult to find in my opinion however you won't find too much at your local parts store. I have a '73 drivetrain swapped in and all is working well.
Ask me q's if you have 'em.
Oh yea, the steel seems pretty thick to me. So go for it.
Hey there,
I have a 63 factory soft top. Other that the tops were only made to fit mine for a short while I love it, it is very capable off road and everyone likes to see it drive by. Or so it seems. Parts are not difficult to find in my opinion however you won't find too much at your local parts store. I have a '73 drivetrain swapped in and all is working well.
Ask me q's if you have 'em.
Oh yea, the steel seems pretty thick to me. So go for it.
- Thread starter
- #8
Thanks guys
Thanks you for your collective responses. I'm planning on keeping the '64 FJ stock. Does anyone know what the weight/load rating is of the PTO winches? This FJ comes with stock steel wheels but no hub caps. Are the caps available for a 64? Also, are the rear differentials limited slip; and after locking the hubs of the front axle, does it then become a 'locked' dif?
Thank you, Ron.
Thanks you for your collective responses. I'm planning on keeping the '64 FJ stock. Does anyone know what the weight/load rating is of the PTO winches? This FJ comes with stock steel wheels but no hub caps. Are the caps available for a 64? Also, are the rear differentials limited slip; and after locking the hubs of the front axle, does it then become a 'locked' dif?
Thank you, Ron.
Rears are not limited slip, but there was a company that made a limited slip (not many) back in the 60's. Also, the front does not become a locked differential when the hubs are locked, that just means the front hubs are engaged. A locked diff is when you replace the open (aka one tire fire) differential carrier with a locker which makes both tires spin the same speed whether one or both tires on the same axle are on the ground. An open diff will only transfer power to both tires until one comes off the ground then the planted tire loses power and the one in the air will spin. Hope that was clear, I am not a teacher or good at explaining through typing.
I have a 1965 and 1969 and they were thicker steel. About 1972 and up the US Government was hammering car manufacturers in areas like emissions,gas mileage,safety stuff, etc.. There was a gas shortage around 1973/1974 also. Those small roll bars had to be there. My 1969 had longer seats in the rear and no roll bar. Toyota lightened up the rig by using thinner steel. On the other side though, they improved engine and braking. I visited Japan a long time back now and was told that most steel used in the late 70s' was from recycled metal. Maybe that is why a lot of the Japanese cars rusted out during that time. I cannot confirm that but was told that.
I am a purist so I would keep it stock. I will defend a distributor change to a DUI or similar to help with point maintenance.
I am a purist so I would keep it stock. I will defend a distributor change to a DUI or similar to help with point maintenance.
- Thread starter
- #12
what's it worth?
That's interesting about the thinner steel. I wish I had pics to post to show everyone what I'm planning to buy. This FJ is basically identical (same color too with identical hard top) to the won posted on the 25 side of the forum. The thread is entitled, "do I belong here?" except the one I'm looking at is not nearly as nice as that one. But mine does have a nicely functioning PTO winch. The only rust I could find was a few spots along the bottom most metal below the tailgate doors and some on the passenger's rocker panel about half way up where the floor joins from behind. The floor in that area where it joins the rocker has some rot too. Do you think this rig is worth $3000? Everything works;it just needs alot of work. Thanks, Ron.
That's interesting about the thinner steel. I wish I had pics to post to show everyone what I'm planning to buy. This FJ is basically identical (same color too with identical hard top) to the won posted on the 25 side of the forum. The thread is entitled, "do I belong here?" except the one I'm looking at is not nearly as nice as that one. But mine does have a nicely functioning PTO winch. The only rust I could find was a few spots along the bottom most metal below the tailgate doors and some on the passenger's rocker panel about half way up where the floor joins from behind. The floor in that area where it joins the rocker has some rot too. Do you think this rig is worth $3000? Everything works;it just needs alot of work. Thanks, Ron.
The load rating of a stock PTO winch is 1000lbs
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
Ron its very hard to tell ya if its worth it with out good pics...we like pics
sound good ...pto is a huge plus...
the hubcaps are presently not available...however the newer style is available....the older acorn center caps are/were being worked on by our resident fabricator Ehsan in pakistan...however understandably....its been taken awhile.
I very much prefer the older cruisers...i got alot of 64 parts on my 74
and also welcome to MUD
like said before ....25 section is your friend when it comes to the older cruisers
sound good ...pto is a huge plus...
the hubcaps are presently not available...however the newer style is available....the older acorn center caps are/were being worked on by our resident fabricator Ehsan in pakistan...however understandably....its been taken awhile.
I very much prefer the older cruisers...i got alot of 64 parts on my 74
and also welcome to MUD
like said before ....25 section is your friend when it comes to the older cruisers
Those old hub caps come up on ebay once in a while. I recently old 8 of them on ebay. If they are in good shape they are not cheap. I love the look of the steel wheels with hub caps, but I know with the sand, salt and moisture exposure my rigs will see it was best to get some aluminum rims, and let someone else have them that would restore and maintain them.
Really hard to say?
Based on your description, it's very hard to say. $3000 may be a little high.
This one was listed for $1000 for over a year and is now $750... Likely needs more work, but $2250 worth?
1964 Toyota Land Cruiser Outside Victoria, Victoria
It also really varies depending on where you are. Prices have really dropped in the last few years... At least in these parts.
Ps. Unless it only has surface rust, the work to replace a panel is virtually the same... Regardless of how big the hole is.
Based on your description, it's very hard to say. $3000 may be a little high.
This one was listed for $1000 for over a year and is now $750... Likely needs more work, but $2250 worth?
1964 Toyota Land Cruiser Outside Victoria, Victoria
It also really varies depending on where you are. Prices have really dropped in the last few years... At least in these parts.
Ps. Unless it only has surface rust, the work to replace a panel is virtually the same... Regardless of how big the hole is.
If that one for $750 was near me it would be in my garage. I paid $1200 for my 1962 with a ton of extra parts. Engine and drive train all work well, the engine and trans are out of a 71. I have sold the some of the extra parts, and I picked up the missing linkage to go back to 3 on the tree. I am now have about $900 into it, the more of extra parts I sell the less I have into it. I still have a lot of parts to sell. I think I got lucky but you do not have to sink a ton of money to end up with a nice cruiser just buy the right one to start with for you and do all the work yourself. There is nothing you cannot learn to do good enough to get by, and you do not need a ton of expensive tools either. $3,000 might be a good price, or way to much. Like others said pictures would be needed, what 1 person thinks is major rust others might think is minor. Some rust is easy to fix yourself with no fabricating skills, other areas might require more work. So location of rust is also critical. Rust is a lot of work to fix but not a lot of money if you do it your self, but can be a fortune to pay someone else to do it. But in this low end price range if you are happy with it then you got a good deal. Ask him if it comes with extra parts, sometimes sellers do not think about that part in the garage they will throw in if you remind them. Cant wait to see pictures of it.
One of the rust issues with the early cruisers is they had no roll bar so the roll bar braces were not there and they were a significant casue of rust, a properly tuned early cruiser will do better than 55 but you would likely need to upgrade to a 2 barrell carb and maybe a better oil filter. Still old school, I bought a 67 recently from a guy in Glendive Mt had hardly any rust, very nice, good luck, Larry
So...I read your posts, and it sounds like you want to do a true restoration...an I correct? If yes, then you really need to get us some pics before you buy it!!! And I will tell you why...way too often someone has an "All original" "completely stock" "perfect for restoration" cruiser for sale, but is has the wrong engine, wrong tranny, seats, top...etc., so if a true restoration is what you have in mind, you do not want to be buying some rig that is already a collection of parts.
As for buying parts...the hunt is half the fun...and you will need to hunt, but they are still out there...just don't expect to walk into your local auto parts store to buy new brake lines and stuff...you'll have to order them through specialty cruiser shops that deal in the older cruisers...like Mark's Offroad, and SOR.
Welcome to mud...smart to be asking questions first !
As for buying parts...the hunt is half the fun...and you will need to hunt, but they are still out there...just don't expect to walk into your local auto parts store to buy new brake lines and stuff...you'll have to order them through specialty cruiser shops that deal in the older cruisers...like Mark's Offroad, and SOR.
Welcome to mud...smart to be asking questions first !
- Thread starter
- #20
Photos
OK, Here are some photos from the ad. This one is in much better condition compared to the one linked above for $750. The rear swing doors are in very good mechanical shape with no rust at all. With the exception of the rocker rust I mentioned earlier, the tub has no rust or dents. The front fenders have no rust either but the right fender is dented-turn signal housing is smashed too. I briefly looked at the main, hardtop doors (not installed on photos) and they were pretty solid too-no rot anyway. They need a little mechanical work to get the window regulators to work. The top is all there too including functioning bi-fold doors. The weather stripping for these doors (and for the entire FJ) are all rotted away. The paint looks like it's had one crappy repaint-the current owner has gone around cleaning/scouring the exterior which peeled off the current paint layer. I think the finish below is original. The rig supposedly has 72K miles and it spent most of its entire life on a ranch. That owner supposedly bought it new in '64. See two more pics below...
OK, Here are some photos from the ad. This one is in much better condition compared to the one linked above for $750. The rear swing doors are in very good mechanical shape with no rust at all. With the exception of the rocker rust I mentioned earlier, the tub has no rust or dents. The front fenders have no rust either but the right fender is dented-turn signal housing is smashed too. I briefly looked at the main, hardtop doors (not installed on photos) and they were pretty solid too-no rot anyway. They need a little mechanical work to get the window regulators to work. The top is all there too including functioning bi-fold doors. The weather stripping for these doors (and for the entire FJ) are all rotted away. The paint looks like it's had one crappy repaint-the current owner has gone around cleaning/scouring the exterior which peeled off the current paint layer. I think the finish below is original. The rig supposedly has 72K miles and it spent most of its entire life on a ranch. That owner supposedly bought it new in '64. See two more pics below...
