64 Cruiser brakes (1 Viewer)

Joined
Jan 21, 2021
Messages
3
Location
California
First thread posted......

I have a 64 FJ I've owned for about 15 years. It has been primarily used on a ranch but I'm now making it safe and reliable for the road. It has a 350 Chevy engine, installed by the previous owner, and overall in great shape. I have done a lot of work to it and just put all new brakes systems in, new pads, new wheel cylinders, and turned the drums. The master cylinder was replace a few years back and all parts were purchased through Spector Off-Road.

I am very happy with the brake install, I am confident the pads are all adjusted well and the system thoroughly bled but the peddle still drops to the floor in the first pump, slightly better second pump and at third pump stops the truck but not very well at all! It has stopped better than this before but to be honest with you I think only a few wheel cylinders were good and only one tire would lock up. It seems like a system with eight cylinders would need more than this small stock master cylinder? It does have the original lines that are routed according to the manufacturer specs. Does anyone have experiance or suggestions regarding this issue?
 
Joined
May 24, 2016
Messages
348
Location
Bainbridge Island, Washington
On my '67 it took quite a lot of bleeding to finally get the pedal to stay firm (knuckles and fluid bleeding). Seems like I must've dived into it 4 times until success. Starting at the furthest wheel. Of course you have to be sure you have no leaks- I replaced everything, including the hard and soft lines (yes, you can find 9mm versions). Then I decided, for safety's sake, to replace the single master with a dual master (still stock)- really recommend it. And then a couple more bleeding sessions. No problems two years on. Keep at it.
 
Joined
Jan 21, 2021
Messages
3
Location
California
On my '67 it took quite a lot of bleeding to finally get the pedal to stay firm (knuckles and fluid bleeding). Seems like I must've dived into it 4 times until success. Starting at the furthest wheel. Of course you have to be sure you have no leaks- I replaced everything, including the hard and soft lines (yes, you can find 9mm versions). Then I decided, for safety's sake, to replace the single master with a dual master (still stock)- really recommend it. And then a couple more bleeding sessions. No problems two years on. Keep at it.
I know about the bleeding knuckles, my son and I must have spent 45 minutes and half a gallon of fluid already! Great to hear your are all good. How did you find a duel master for our year, I can only find a duel for 1970 +. did you split the lines from front and back on the duel?
 
Joined
May 24, 2016
Messages
348
Location
Bainbridge Island, Washington
Master came from Mark's Offroad, with adapter plate (4 bolts to 3) ($250 I think). Block the existing line after the right front, and run rear line as shown. Bend a good springy coil in line at the point it leaves the body and onto the frame for movement absorption.
At the point the picture was taken, I must've still been bleeding as it's below full. It has not moved at all from full now.


IMG_2220.JPG
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom