1988 fj62 wont start,gas tank full,replaced fuel filter,gas to filter,gas to fuel regulator but weak when cranking,loosened banjo bolt has gas but does seem to have much if any pressure just drips out. fuel pump? Can you hear the pump running when the key is turned to start? Thanks, Mike Ps. Who makes a GOOD gas transfer siphon to remove the gas from the tank,the cheap ones only will remove about half the gas before the eth. eats them up. Mike
62 wont start,not getting gas (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Michael Hanson
- Start date
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If you need a pump, this may be of use to you: https://forum.ih8mud.com/sale-parts/245941-fj62-fuel-pump-pick-up-unit-sale.html (assuming Chris still has it)
I would check the integrity of the wiring as well, the wiring in the driver's side quarter panel to the pump has been known to corrode/break for others.
I would check the integrity of the wiring as well, the wiring in the driver's side quarter panel to the pump has been known to corrode/break for others.
Do you know where the test block is on your fire wall? Use a piece of wire and jump connector +B and FP with the ignition on. You should have pressure in the fuel return hose and you should be able to hear the pump running.
If you don't have either, chances are the fuel pump is dead. But do check the fusible links, efi and ignition fuses, the efi main relay and wire connections. There are some others but you will need the FSM to check them.
This is how I found mine and yes they die without any warning.
Before you siphon out the tank, take a look on the bottom. My 90 has a drain plug and there is enough height for five gallon buckets. Mine was full when it died.
If you don't need the truck right away, Specter has a great price on a Japanese made pump, don't forget to order a filter.
Best of Luck
Tony
If you don't have either, chances are the fuel pump is dead. But do check the fusible links, efi and ignition fuses, the efi main relay and wire connections. There are some others but you will need the FSM to check them.
This is how I found mine and yes they die without any warning.
Before you siphon out the tank, take a look on the bottom. My 90 has a drain plug and there is enough height for five gallon buckets. Mine was full when it died.
If you don't need the truck right away, Specter has a great price on a Japanese made pump, don't forget to order a filter.
Best of Luck
Tony
- Thread starter
- #5
Of course the tank is full! Thats why I figure its the pump.Any other time I would need to fill it up.
Does it have the drain plug?
Tony
Tony
- Thread starter
- #7
Not sure, Its out in the field,to dark ,Ill check tomorrow. Seems like with the key in start the pump should be easy to hear,or am I wrong?
I don't believe the pump kicks in as soon as the key is in run..... but that is based on what I read in this recent thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/262071-3fe-wont-start-codes-24-32-a.html
Were you getting a check engine light before this trouble? Any other problems leading up to this, or non-start is the first sign of trouble?
Were you getting a check engine light before this trouble? Any other problems leading up to this, or non-start is the first sign of trouble?
Michael And yes the pump is easy to hear. I can hear the pump from the drivers seat. But you won't be able to hear it if you put the key into "start" as the starter makes far more noise the the pump. Once you turn the key to "on" and insert the jumper wire you can walk back to the tank and give a listen. If it's running you will hear it. It sounds like a strong "hum".
The pump wont run at all during this test unless you have the jumper wire in place. What this test does is bypass the running engine circuits so you can test the pump. Chances are if you can't hear it, the pump is bad.
RockDoc Just turning the key "on" (or run) won't do a thing to test the pump. The pump normally does not start to function until the key is turned past "on" and into start mode. Normally after the engine starts and you release the key back to "on" the pump stays running.
This test of the pump comes straight from the Factory Service Manual Page FI 47. This test is the same for 89 and 90 models (I have both manuals) and I don't think it would be different in your 88. The Toyota dealer could confirm it for you.
One other note, If I am paying attention and the radio is off when my 62 shuts off I can momentarily still hear the pump as it shuts down.
And here is a seat of the pants suggestion that comes from my mechanic buddy (ASE certified for over 16 years and can fix anything) if the rig is in a bad spot and you are unable to tow it to a better spot, smacking the tank in the vicinity of the pump will sometimes jog the pump into working at least temporarily. (No it didn't work when mine died).
Best of luck, let me know if I can be of more help.
Tony
The pump wont run at all during this test unless you have the jumper wire in place. What this test does is bypass the running engine circuits so you can test the pump. Chances are if you can't hear it, the pump is bad.
RockDoc Just turning the key "on" (or run) won't do a thing to test the pump. The pump normally does not start to function until the key is turned past "on" and into start mode. Normally after the engine starts and you release the key back to "on" the pump stays running.
This test of the pump comes straight from the Factory Service Manual Page FI 47. This test is the same for 89 and 90 models (I have both manuals) and I don't think it would be different in your 88. The Toyota dealer could confirm it for you.
One other note, If I am paying attention and the radio is off when my 62 shuts off I can momentarily still hear the pump as it shuts down.
And here is a seat of the pants suggestion that comes from my mechanic buddy (ASE certified for over 16 years and can fix anything) if the rig is in a bad spot and you are unable to tow it to a better spot, smacking the tank in the vicinity of the pump will sometimes jog the pump into working at least temporarily. (No it didn't work when mine died).
Best of luck, let me know if I can be of more help.
Tony
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Be carefull on the jumper wire test though. I just replaced a bad fuel pump in my '88 62 a couple weeks ago and I could hear the pump while performing the test, but it was not pumping fuel. Once the new pump was in it fired right up.
With regards to draining the tank I had great luck with a funnel and this tank..
Duramax 14 Gallon Fuel Caddy | Gas + Oil Cans | Northern Tool + Equipment
I just laid the transfer tank on the ground and held the funnel in between the drain plug and the fill on the transfer tank. If you siphon at least 8 gallon out from the fuel filler neck you won't have to worry about over flowing the 14 gallon capacity.
With regards to draining the tank I had great luck with a funnel and this tank..
Duramax 14 Gallon Fuel Caddy | Gas + Oil Cans | Northern Tool + Equipment
I just laid the transfer tank on the ground and held the funnel in between the drain plug and the fill on the transfer tank. If you siphon at least 8 gallon out from the fuel filler neck you won't have to worry about over flowing the 14 gallon capacity.
Like mentioned above, check the wire harness in the left rear quarter. There is a 4 wire connector there that goes to the pump. I've had to redo the wiring there for this same issue.
Dave
Dave
- Thread starter
- #12
Thanks guys,whats the chances its in the fuseable links? Mike
jvazquez53
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Is it fuel injected? I believe fuel injection needs to be pressurized.
- Thread starter
- #14
Yes its fuel injected
- Thread starter
- #15
Best options on a new fuel pump? Mike
had the same problem on two different 62s. chased for a bit on the first one found it was the pump but being in the northeast ended up changing the tank as well as the part coming out of the tank (mind cramp cant think of name of it) second time around figured it much faster got lucky just had to change pump love that efi.
- Thread starter
- #17
I sure like my 60 its manual,20 min fix;my 80 pull back seat,pull cover plate,60 min fix.The pull the tank is a major PIA on the 62. Mike
I just went ahead and got mine from the dealer (long time family relationship) they quoted me $340 but then gave it to me for cost at $270. I've seen some aftermarket ones since for $60-$70. but I was happy to pay for OEM since I never want to have to drop the tank again.
- Thread starter
- #19
I understand on the Toyota who is the manufacture? Mike
who manufactured the toyota pump? not sure...I'll dig up the reciept tomorrow
Or did you mean who had the $60-70 ones? I don't remeber but I'm looking around now
