FJ62 Cold Start Issue; Fuel Rail not holding pressure (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Feb 5, 2020
Threads
26
Messages
319
Location
Harpers Ferry, WV
Back story, I've had my 1988 FJ62 for about 3 years now. When I got it went on jack stands while I went through everything and cleaned it up. About a year or so ago it started having starting issues. It'll crank and crank just until you start questioning if it's actually going to start and then finally catch. I check the cold start injector a while ago and made sure it was clean and operating correctly. When I pulled it, it was spotless, no junk or build up on it. Have just been living with the issue and throwing parts at the rig every once in a while to see if anything would change.

Fuel Pump screen was replaced by the PO just before I bought it.
I replaced the fuel filter about 12k miles ago when I first got it.
Replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator with an Standard Motors Products P/N: PR88 about 2k miles ago.
Replaced the Cold Start Injector Temperature switch about 1k miles ago.

Finally today I went and bought a fuel pressure gauge kit from Hobo Freight ($49.99). Btw the banjo fitting is M8x1.0 if anyone needs to know.
"Bench" tested the cold start injector, by shorting terminals +B and FP of the diag terminals and giving the connector some power.
Spray pattern looked great. Checked the Cold Start Injector Temperature switch as well as per the FSM and it Ohm'd out fine.
1698603264177.png


Finally, hooked up the fuel pressure gauge and preformed the fuel pump operation inspection as per the FSM on page FI-47.
Here were the findings:

39 psi with terminals +B and FP shorted

31 psi at idle with FPR vacuum connected (directly to intake manifold, I gave away the FPR VSV when I desmog'd the engine cause I didn't know any better. If anyone has the FPR VSV P/N 25860-61010 let me know)

43.5 psi at idle with the FPR vacuum disconnected

All of those readings were within spec per the FSM. Intake Vacuum was about 21.5 inHg if that's worth noting.

The real issue is that when I shut the engine off the fuel pressure dropped to 0 psi within seconds.
It's suppose to maintain at least 21 psi for 5 mins after the engine is off.

1698603864866.png


Obviously the FSM lays out the suggested issues right there, but I'm wondering if anyone has run into this and point me in one direction or another.
The FPR is new, but who knows with parts no days, especially aftermarket/non-oem.
I've dropped the tank before to fix some wiring and pulled the pump just to look at it.
Luckily I still have a pick of that.
Not the greatest looking thing but I pulled everything apart and cleaned it and it seemed fine.
Not sure if the pumps have check valves internally, but if so maybe that failed.
1698604301514.png


As for injectors, I've never pulled those. Could have sworn I had a receipt from a PO showing that they were sent off to get cleaned and tested, but I can't find that receipt anymore.
However, I'm guessing if one of the injectors was stuck open I'd have other noticeable issues as well.
Plus I have bad habit of buying Techron or Sea Foam whenever they're on sale and dumping them into all my cars, probably to often if that's even possible.
So I'm leaning towards them being fairly clean.
Also tried listening to them with the old mechanic "stethoscope" while I have the diag terminals shorted to see if I could hear fuel following through/pass them, but didn't hear anything.

Has anyone had this issue before and what was the cause?
Is there any way to check if the FPR is bleeding the pressure off after the engine is turned off?
Thoughts on just throwing an inline check valve on the fuel feed line somewhere to see if its the pump?
 
Did you test those parts before you replaced them? Generally speaking you wanna do that before you start throwing money at senseless things. I’ve learned that the hard way several times. But sometime it’s just fun to replace everything anyway. 🤷‍♂️

I don’t own a 62 but from what I know about EFI and your stated situation I am inclined to think the fuel pump may be the problem. Sounds like it’s having to spend extra time priming the system before it gets up to operating pressures.

I would pull the fuel pump out and bench test it to verify it’s working properly.

If that’s not the culprit then make sure the wiring and connections are clean. My fuel sending unit was acting up in my 60 and I replaced it without testing anything. It still acted up. Turns out it was dirt packed into the connector. Cleaned it out and it works fine now. Old unit was probably perfect.
 
Did you test those parts before you replaced them? Generally speaking you wanna do that before you start throwing money at senseless things. I’ve learned that the hard way several times. But sometime it’s just fun to replace everything anyway. 🤷‍♂️

I don’t own a 62 but from what I know about EFI and your stated situation I am inclined to think the fuel pump may be the problem. Sounds like it’s having to spend extra time priming the system before it gets up to operating pressures.

I would pull the fuel pump out and bench test it to verify it’s working properly.

If that’s not the culprit then make sure the wiring and connections are clean. My fuel sending unit was acting up in my 60 and I replaced it without testing anything. It still acted up. Turns out it was dirt packed into the connector. Cleaned it out and it works fine now. Old unit was probably perfect.
Yeah I tested what I could/can before replacing stuff.

Cold Start Injector Temperature switch test is just a resistance reading between the terminals. Which was fine but the connector on the harness was broken so I replaced it wtih a newer style switch which was suppose to come with a new connector but that vendor failed to send the new connector. Ended up cannibalizing a different connector and making it work. Pretty ended up with an ever so slightly mildly better connection there so that was pretty pointless.

Fuel filter is a fuel filter and cheap enough to swap out just to cover my bases.

FPR was just throwing money at it, but my reasoning was based on all the forum posts others have with the FPR being the culprit and the ease of getting to it. Now thinking about it I guess I could pull the current one and try blowing through it to see if it’s stuck open, which I’ll do when I get a chance. Other than that there’s no good way to tests its operation without the fuel pressure gauge and adapters which is what I recent. But the likelihood that the old one and new one are both bad is probably low so I’m leaning towards the pump.

I did check the power at the connector to the fuel pump and verified there was no voltage drop or anything weird. I cleaned connectors with QD contact cleaner as well, but I’ve had issues with the harness running over the tank previously so I wanted to rule that out.

Personally pulling the tank is enough of a hassle that if I have to do it I’m just going to throw a new pump in there. I’m not going to test the old one and then have to wait around for a new pump to get delivered. City Racer has new pumps with all the accessory parts for $88, plus that connector for the cold starter injector switch I need for another $10.
 
Yeah I tested what I could/can before replacing stuff.

Cold Start Injector Temperature switch test is just a resistance reading between the terminals. Which was fine but the connector on the harness was broken so I replaced it wtih a newer style switch which was suppose to come with a new connector but that vendor failed to send the new connector. Ended up cannibalizing a different connector and making it work. Pretty ended up with an ever so slightly mildly better connection there so that was pretty pointless.

Fuel filter is a fuel filter and cheap enough to swap out just to cover my bases.

FPR was just throwing money at it, but my reasoning was based on all the forum posts others have with the FPR being the culprit and the ease of getting to it. Now thinking about it I guess I could pull the current one and try blowing through it to see if it’s stuck open, which I’ll do when I get a chance. Other than that there’s no good way to tests its operation without the fuel pressure gauge and adapters which is what I recent. But the likelihood that the old one and new one are both bad is probably low so I’m leaning towards the pump.

I did check the power at the connector to the fuel pump and verified there was no voltage drop or anything weird. I cleaned connectors with QD contact cleaner as well, but I’ve had issues with the harness running over the tank previously so I wanted to rule that out.

Personally pulling the tank is enough of a hassle that if I have to do it I’m just going to throw a new pump in there. I’m not going to test the old one and then have to wait around for a new pump to get delivered. City Racer has new pumps with all the accessory parts for $88, plus that connector for the cold starter injector switch I need for another $10.
$88 is pretty reasonable for that part. I thought they would be $300+
And yeah, if you’re going through the trouble of dropping the tank you might as well put a new one in at that rate.
 
$88 is pretty reasonable for that part. I thought they would be $300+
And yeah, if you’re going through the trouble of dropping the tank you might as well put a new one in at that rate.
OEM might be that expensive, not sure if you can even get those anymore. City Racer has it listed as a high quality aftermarket. The ones on rockauto run from $15-80. But I trust city racer and would rather a vendor like them get my money.

Was reading through the FSM and 3FE repair manual this morning and just remember that I did have a code show for the cold start temperature switch at one point prior to replacing. Like I said I’ve had this problem for a bit and have been living with it and apparently barely remembering everything I’ve done. The FJ62 is pretty much a 3rd/4th vehicle for us. Wife drives it more than me at this point since I bought her a 1st gen Tacoma that’s needed a bunch of deferred maintenance from PO’s.

Anyways the pump is ordered but I won’t be able to get around to installing it for two weeks. Just left on a business trip. I’m going to check a few more thing when I get back prior to throwing the pump in.

It does look like the pump has a check valve in it with is what I suspect has failed. Only other thing I can think of is the FPR isn’t closing all the way, but should be able to pull that and trying blowing through it from the fuel rail side and seeing if I feel air going through to the fuel return line.

IMG_5651.jpeg
 
this is eazy-peezy to split-half-T-TEN Search method ...

..

- the OEM NipponDenso pump u can still buy NEW OEM :smokin: :D


- the injector is a SOLENOID or ICS fundamentally , and is NLA :confused:
.

23220PPUMP ASSY, FUEL
23220-16083AISAN1
23220-16190DENSO



- i wonder where i would start .......?



-

1698777422441.png



-
1698777437166.png
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom