62 Rear Frame Repair

[Trollhole]

Customer brought this in for me to wire wheel and paint. It would have taken 2 solid days to do it so I had it blasted. What I ended up with was basically tinfoil. So I had some 1/4 plate custom bent and replaced all the rivets with grade 8. The only spot it's welded is at the front. Coated all parts in por15 before bolting it together. No way it's rusting again.

 

[Dieseler]

Whats with the springs in the last pic.
Not sure if all the bolts would of been the best option.....to me a good weld and boxing in the portion of the frame would go alot further but thats only my opinion what do I know,

 

[Lead Head]

My 62 springs looked like that. Turns out about 4-5 of the springs had cracked in half at the perch.

 

[Trollhole]

Springs are toast. If you weld it fully your just asking for rust to come back. This way there is no chance of that happening. Probably overkill for a dd but for a wheeler it's a good idea

Rear hanger isn't attached.

 

[Dieseler]

You must have a set of forearms on you to drill that many bolt holes with the body still intact.
Yeh I guess for a daily thats the best option as you said , for an offroader the other option would be the way to go you would have to check the bolts if riden hard on the trails.

 

[krzyabncanuck]

That stuff is fun enough to get to with the body off. Let alone with it on.

Came out nice man.

 

[hj 60]

I am 30000 km further but still everything is ok;

 

[markthemenace]

Customer brought this in for me to wire wheel and paint. It would have taken 2 solid days to do it so I had it blasted. What I ended up with was basically tinfoil. So I had some 1/4 plate custom bent and replaced all the rivets with grade 8. The only spot it's welded is at the front. Coated all parts in por15 before bolting it together. No way it's rusting again.

Cripes, that's impressive! Mine is also doing that delaminating thing in place...not as bad as yours, but good to know that this is a technique that can be done to strengthen our frames.

 

[langsen]

Looks good! I was bolting mine in this afternoon, and after seeing this thread realized I put the spring hanger bolts in upside down. Always something to work on...

 

[Zack1978]

Customer brought this in for me to wire wheel and paint. It would have taken 2 solid days to do it so I had it blasted. What I ended up with was basically tinfoil. So I had some 1/4 plate custom bent and replaced all the rivets with grade 8. The only spot it's welded is at the front. Coated all parts in por15 before bolting it together. No way it's rusting again.

Here you go......you can have these inserts built and sell them to rust belt cruiser owners as a kit with the bolts included. This could be another item to add to the list of for sale items.

Just an idea...


Zack

 

[hj 60]

The replacement of the spring hanger bolt does not matter I think?
There is only stress to the rear as the suspension wants to flat out. With mine I tried to keep everything m10 and snug.
So even if there are no nuts it will stay in place I think.

This whole setup is for Japanese 5000 kilo trailers but here in EUrope it is max 3500.

I have driven a few thousend kilometers with 5 peope and gear but no movement or wear signs at all.

Luckily this is a once in a lifetime experience

new brakelines
new gearoil bolt with magnet
new swaybar connections
new extra strong bolts/nuts (DONT GO CHEAP ON THESE!)
new exhoust ;p
new electricity crap
new breather U-line switched from metal to rubber
new diff breather with filter
new second hand spare wheel carrier with fixed up release/lift working...
fuel tank painted (no recall overhere) ;p
new fuel lines 5x

 

[Spock Dingledong]

I'm planning on replacing my C channel (with the body on). Should I drop the tank? Will I need new shackle mounts? I have a OME in the mail, should I wait to install it til I can arrange a replacement C channel? Sorry if all these questions are covered, I just want to do it right.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

guessing the tank should come down. I would do the repair work before any upgrade work to avoid twice working. but then again, I only got a grade alevin...

 

[60Works]

Nice fix, especially considering what you had to start with. I keep hoping that someone will fab up and sell replacement C channels that actually fit the contour of the frame at the front end.

Going oversized is not always better. 1/4" plate is more rigid than the 1/8" original piece. It will add stress risers at the ends and may cause cracks in the main frame down the road. It's kind of like having a strain relief on the plug of an extension cord. Without the relief the cord will tear at the sharp angle of the plug body.

The same is true for using Grade 8 bolts. Yes, they're stronger than the rivets but the point of rivets is to have a soft material that completely fills the holes, because they expanded when they were smashed in, and, because the rivets are the same material and hardness as the frame, the stresses will flow though everything as if it were made if one piece of steel.

I doubt the driver will ever have troubles but it's a good reminder that overbuilt is not always the best solution. I also recommend that the rear shackle perch be welded to main frame channel before the inner C is bolted in rather than rely on the two bolts.