61180 distributor / FJ60 wont start

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Ned

Joined
Aug 2, 2015
Threads
8
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129
Location
Hollywood FL
I installed city racer 61180 in my 60. I put it in at TDC ran the grey plug to the coil + grounded the black plug. I hooked up the positive and negative wires from the old ignition to the coil.

No Start???

With the key in the on position, I have used a test light and confirmed both + & - are getting power, and it is getting to the distributor. Tested while cranking and same thing all getting power.

It seems that there is no power going from the coil lead to the top of the distributor cap.

I took everything off and used the stock set up with the 61180 distributor, like this post: Electronic F & 2F Distributors

Same thing no power on the coil lead to the top of the distributor cap

I don't know what to do to get this to work?
 
are you certain it was top dead center on compression stroke?
very easy to be on the exhaust stroke,
just for SAG, run the plug wires 180 around the cap and see if it starts.
are you getting spark at the plugs?
 
are you certain it was top dead center on compression stroke?
very easy to be on the exhaust stroke,
just for SAG, run the plug wires 180 around the cap and see if it starts.
are you getting spark at the plugs?
yep did all that, opened the timing window and put the truck in 4th and pushed it till the BB was on TDC. I was where I had originally marked it when I pulled the distributor. So I went and bought a multi-meter. Come to find out when i did + terminal and the main lead, it had no ohms coming out, defective coil. So I ordered a new coil online from TPI since the one I had before was a generic napa, and the one from TPI which was a gell coil and for this distributor was only 10.00 more. I hope it will fire up when it gets here, I will keep you posted.
 
just because it is on the BB doesn't mean it is the compression stroke
was the rotor pointing towards cylinder #4?
the BB goes around twice, once per each stroke whether compression or exhaust.

hopefully it's the coil.
 
Last edited:
Check the coil hold down cage, it is the major ground for the ignitor on top of the coil. Ground the ignitor case to the body with a seperate wire to solve future probs.
 
[QUOTE="morganism, post: 12899528, member: 41072"
Check the coil hold down cage, it is the major ground for the ignitor on top of the coil. Ground the ignitor case to the body with a seperate wire to solve future probs.
[/QUOTE]
The ground is good, but I still cant get it fired off. I put a new coil in and did a static timing. Then tried starting it and it seems like it is blowing out the external ballast resister. I am at a loss as to what I can figure out how to make this dissy work on my truck. Almost ready to throw in the towel and ether take it to a shop or buy a new distributor. All the diagrams in the FSM seem to point to a wire going to the starter but my starter doesn't have a connection point for one.
 
Umm.. why did you remove the electronic ignition from the 2F? Is the computer still hooked up?
 
Umm.. why did you remove the electronic ignition from the 2F? Is the computer still hooked up?
I took out the original distributor to do the msd spring upgrade because I desmoged the truck and it was giving me too much advance. When I took it out the inside was all rusted and the bearing ring came out.

as far as computer, I did not think the 60 had a computer.
 
The stock 60 is a fully electronic unit.


What are you calling a ballast resistor? They didn't have one stock.
 
in order to run this distributor (3rd world) you have to have a 12v coil with an eternal balist resistor like this:
1583244354766.png
 
Ok, I pulled the coil and checked everything, with a 12 test light and power on both pos and neg terminals on the coil light up the test light. When I start it it just turns over.
 
So you wired it this way right?
1583274029594.png



Check the pos side of the coil for voltage while cranking. Also, are the points adjusted correctly?
 
So you wired it this way right?
View attachment 2228130


Check the pos side of the coil for voltage while cranking. Also, are the points adjusted correctly?
Before dinner after i gave it one last shot and it seems to want to start! I don’t know what I did different from earlier ( literally the last week) but it think I am close. It just seems like I don’t have the points or timing right.
 
Timing is important. Points can be pretty far off and still work okay. at TDC where is the rotor pointing?
 
Timing is important. Points can be pretty far off and still work okay. at TDC where is the rotor pointing?
#4 cylinder, then I turned the distributor by hand till it just started to open. It seems to want to catch when you crank it but not quite...
 
finally got it started and staying running, set the timing on the BB, will take it out for a drive later
 
what was the culprit?
 
I am not 100% sure, combination of bad luck and lack of timing.

First I burnt up the first set of points, I read to turn the distributor till the points sparked and that was your starting point. While I was doing that I checked the points gap, and while adjusting them with the ignition on (DOH!) I accidentally arched in the wire attached to the points and burned if in half.

After I replaced the points, I ended up connecting the test light to the coil wire, then grounding the light on the engine and setting the timing like that instead of looking for a spark I figured it was much safer. FYI it isn't timed right when it the light comes on, its right before it goes off as it it being turned counter clockwise.

I got finally got it running advancing it little by little, then got out the timing light and set the BB right in the middle of the pointer and the edge of the sight window towards the passenger side. Seems to be running good and not making weird noises.

The tachometer isn't hooked up yet. Not sure if it will work with this coil, I have heard conflicting statements about that. I amjust happy and relieved that I can drive my cruiser again. I will deal with the tach another day.
 

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