60 won't idle AGAIN!?!

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Well the first time it was the idle solenoid but this time i tried replacing the solenoid and it still won't idle. Cruiser has had all new wires, plugs, and new carb from trollhole for over 6 months and run just fine. Out of the blue it won't idle but will run just fine with the choke pulled out halfway.
 
Well the first time it was the idle solenoid but this time i tried replacing the solenoid and it still won't idle. Cruiser has had all new wires, plugs, and new carb from trollhole for over 6 months and run just fine. Out of the blue it won't idle but will run just fine with the choke pulled out halfway.
Sounds like a vacuum leak. Choke makes it richer to compensate for the air coming in thru the leak. John
 
Or clogged jets... My experience is with webers is a clogged idle jet will do exactly this. I know you don't have a weber but it may be similar. When choked it uses the main jet as well as idle for fuel, kill the choke and its all idle jet. If clogged it won't idle. Clean with fine wire and carb cleaner.
 
It may be the passage where the idle solenoid is. I had this happend to me. Same exact symtoms. Pull out the solenoid, and blow some compressed air in the passage. Not too muc though. Dont want to damage anything. If that fixes it, may want to think about a new fuel filter, as it is letting some gunk get to the carb.
 
Sounds like a vacuum leak. Choke makes it richer to compensate for the air coming in thru the leak. John

I don't understand how a vac leak would just pop up out of nowhere..
 
I don't understand how a vac leak would just pop up out of nowhere..

Out of nowhere is how most things on my rig pop up. Like the heater core that was pissing coolant in my floorboard last month...where the cuss did that come from?

If certain no vac leak, then I second the solenoid.

By the way, if it makes you feel better I chipped a tooth on the cruiser just a few hours ago...Un vrais amour :hillbilly:
 
Check for leaks, esp around valve cover,bottom of carb etc. Mike
 
I don't understand how a vac leak would just pop up out of nowhere..
Hoses can crack of fall off, and on a 60, ya a whole bunch of them. Bolts can come loose, and gaskets can fall apart. Diaphragms can fail. I've been workin on old rigs for about 50 years, and I have seen a lot of "old age problems" pop up even on newer parts. When ya don't know what your lookin for, then ya gotta look at everything. Start with easy and cheap, then work up the list. Some symptoms dictate where you start, some don't. Sometimes identical symptoms do NOT have identical causes. Suggestions are just that, not solutions. Spend some time in the books, and spend some time under the hood, and hopefully you be able to cure it cheap and easy. John
 
vacuum hoses can vulcanize due to heat and being in contact with hydrocarbons. The rubber then turns to a plastic like substance and becomes brittle and cracks. Heat, and hydrocarbons also cause gaskets to become brittle over time losing its pliability. Its just a normal fact of life on a older engine.
 
Hoses can crack of fall off, and on a 60, ya a whole bunch of them. Bolts can come loose, and gaskets can fall apart. Diaphragms can fail. I've been workin on old rigs for about 50 years, and I have seen a lot of "old age problems" pop up even on newer parts. When ya don't know what your lookin for, then ya gotta look at everything. Start with easy and cheap, then work up the list. Some symptoms dictate where you start, some don't. Sometimes identical symptoms do NOT have identical causes. Suggestions are just that, not solutions. Spend some time in the books, and spend some time under the hood, and hopefully you be able to cure it cheap and easy. John

Well my rig is completely desmogged and has a brand new trollhole carb so luckily I don't have to many hoses...thanks for the advice. I'll give everyone an update when I get this thing figured out.
 
Don't know if 60's have the same "emissions computer" that late 40's do, but on a late 40 it is a small circuit board close the main fuse panel that controls the idle solenoid. They are cold soldered and well known for the solder cracking where the wiring harness is connected to the circuit board. The fix is either to re-flow the solder on the circuit board, or just bypass the whole thing (since your rig is de-smogged anyway) and power the idle solenoid with an on-with-ignition 12V source.
 
This is the stuck EGR valve. classic symptom. Put a long vac hose on the port, take a kinfe/screwdriver, and tap on the hat and body just below the hat while sucking/releasing vac on the tube. you will hear a "rock" fall and rattle down the copper pipe. it builds up carbon in there on the valve, then chokes ON the egr stopper. Have to do this on newer models too. the original cheap fix.
 
And if none of this works I'll be happy to send you another carb to see if that solves your problem. Did you check the fuse for the idle solenoid like I suggested? Did you make sure the solenoid is getting 12v and is clicking when you turn the ignition switch?
 
I would run some premium fuel with some type of fuel cleaner. I would also change the fuel filter and use some carb cleaner spray on the carburator
 

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