60 series....Tech and Classifieds (3 Viewers)

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Laying the wood
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As you can see, I've got a 10" sub in the back. I've got my sub & front speaker amps mounted in my CCOT center console.

I've even got an old-school Rockford Fosgate Punch amp since it's an old school truck.

Sounds bitchen too.

image.webp
 
As you can see, I've got a 10" sub in the back. I've got my sub & front speaker amps mounted in my CCOT center console.

I've even got an old-school Rockford Fosgate Punch amp since it's an old school truck.

Sounds bitchen too.

View attachment 1060353

Cool set up.

You are ready for a JBL monitor check.
 
Valve adjustment?

Yeah, I thought about that. I'm not hearing any chatter, but I understand that sometimes its the ones you don't hear that can be a problem. They have probably never been adjusted (or at least are overdue for one), so I'll get in there and check them out soon. Would be nice to at least rule that out.

Spend your money on lifts and tires and cool ****.

Troof! Good advice. The only reason I'm sweating some of the mechanics and cooling is that I recently sold my tow vehicle (F 150) and I'd like to be able to drive this to the SCC and some other places without being a total liability en route or on the trail. Plus, it's my daily driver for the near future until I find what I want for my primary ride.
 
I like to adjust 2F engine valves very frequently. I've gotten into the habit of doing them every 5-6K miles. Which usually corresponds with my oil changes.
 
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Plugs were all pretty smoked out white:
View attachment 1059412
Changed all those out.

Plugs look lean to me which can lead to valve issues especially on #6. Go a little richer on your carb setting. You are looking for chaulky brown color - about the color of toast. It may have been tuned at altitude and is set a little lean for sea level.
 
Good advice. Thanks! Just curious, do you do the valve adjustment with the engine on or off - I've seen people (on MUD) swear by both methods. My initial thought was that running was completely "shade tree" until I was reading a 2f Maintenance Manual last night and it said "take the valve cover off, start the engine, use your feeler gauge and adjust to spec." JimC is a big proponent of manually adjusting the flywheel to get TDC with the engine off. I can see pros and cons to both. I doubt you guys care that much about valve adjustments, and I certainly don't want to start a debate or muck up the 60 thread with boring stuff that's been covered a million times in the general forums. Nonetheless, I am curious to get a couple of opinions.
 
Good advice. Thanks! Just curious, do you do the valve adjustment with the engine on or off - I've seen people (on MUD) swear by both methods. My initial thought was that running was completely "shade tree" until I was reading a 2f Maintenance Manual last night and it said "take the valve cover off, start the engine, use your feeler gauge and adjust to spec." JimC is a big proponent of manually adjusting the flywheel to get TDC with the engine off. I can see pros and cons to both. I doubt you guys care that much about valve adjustments, and I certainly don't want to start a debate or muck up the 60 thread with boring stuff that's been covered a million times in the general forums. Nonetheless, I am curious to get a couple of opinions.

Done it both ways. Probably lean to warm engine not running just because it makes less of a mess and I don't feel as rushed.

I used to keep an old GM tin valve cover with the top cut out so I could adjust small blocks while running without making a mess. Guess it would work just as well on an I6
 
Engine off. If you pull the plugs, you can usually rotate the engine by turning one of the accessory pulleys. Watch for the timing mark in the timing window.

Pull the distributor cap and see where the rotor is pointing to determine if you are TDC or 180 off.
 
Engine off. If you pull the plugs, you can usually rotate the engine by turning one of the accessory pulleys. Watch for the timing mark in the timing window.

Pull the distributor cap and see where the rotor is pointing to determine if you are TDC or 180 off.

Or...put the truck in 4th gear and rock the truck to "bump" against the transmission (either forward or reverse). Pretty easy to move the flywheel to the desired position that way without removing anything. Line it up on the timing mark and half of the valves will be loose, and the other half will be tight. Adjust the loose ones then rock the truck again until the flywheel rotates one revolution. The other 6 valves will be loose and adjustable now.
 
I like bringing the engine up to operating temperature, then adjust valves. I did it with the engine operating once and I just did not like the experience personally.

:meh:
 
As you can see, I've got a 10" sub in the back. I've got my sub & front speaker amps mounted in my CCOT center console.

I've even got an old-school Rockford Fosgate Punch amp since it's an old school truck.

Sounds bitchen too.

View attachment 1060353

Old Rockford amp as are awesome. They get loud and are so clear. Only downside is they will run hot especially when confined. You have it mounted right but you will need the put a cooling fan that blows over the heat sink or it will fry the mosfets. I own 6 of the old school punch amps two with fried mosfets that I am repairing.

Edit: I now see the cooling fan.
 

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