I decided to cut my rear quarters, for better or for worse, and am now looking at how exactly I want to go about filling in the hole left behind. I wanted to get suggestions, and see pictures of what other people had done when cutting their quarters and how it turned out.
60 rear quarter trim
- Thread starter Cruisin60
- Start date
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brian
SILVER Star
how about a few pics of what you have now?
We did this to a 80 this last summer.
basicly made a template, then used it to build a "pan" that would fill the hole.
slide it in, glue it,weld it or screw it in place.
we used 3/4" x 1/8" strap for the side of the pan and whatever or however thick of plate for the bottom.
basicly made a template, then used it to build a "pan" that would fill the hole.
slide it in, glue it,weld it or screw it in place.
we used 3/4" x 1/8" strap for the side of the pan and whatever or however thick of plate for the bottom.
Sorry, don't have time to search for you but look for Exiled's posts for Princess. That is one of the better examples and it also shows how the rear qtr panel protection ties into the frame.
check post 199 in the 60's registry
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-...post920330.html?highlight=princess#post920330
check post 199 in the 60's registry
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-...post920330.html?highlight=princess#post920330
It was my 80, here is a link to the thread. This design has proven to be so strong that is works as wing support for my tube bumper, I just cut a hockey puck in half and bolted it between the bumper/frame support and quarter panel floor so that a hit on the bumper wing from underneath doesn't slam into the quarter panel floor (the puck is not in any pics). I did this after CM09 on Spike where I thought I was past a ledge and slammed down on the corner of the bumper, which jacked it up into the quarter panel. Even with that force the body panel held and the bumper didn't bend. The pucks act almost like a body mount, they added some additional stability to the rear by tying the bumper/frame into the outer edge of the body. Awesome solution 
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/202095-rear-quarter-panel-clearance-cutting-new-technique.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/202095-rear-quarter-panel-clearance-cutting-new-technique.html
Likewise I won't dig up my stuff again but a search will yield my thread on the topic including a link to my picasa page with lots of pictures.
Wile E Coyote
Out in the streets, they call it murder!
Lots of threads, many with pics regarding this popular mod. Here's one by my bud Chicago.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/190345-rear-1-4-chop.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/190345-rear-1-4-chop.html
Where's yours?
I just copied!
after I cut mine out, I basically took some construction paper and rubbed the outline and used that as a template...
It was still a TON of...weld, weld, weld...clean...grind...weld, weld, weld. You get the idea.
DO NOT get lazy and opt NOT to use a welding helmet even though youre just doing spot welds. Flash burn on the eyes SUCKS!
Chicago
- Thread starter
- #9
I really like what you did with the rhino liner, it looks very clean. Nice job on the trim too, mine is just a little tricky b/c I ended up cutting the quarter pretty high b/c of body damage and now I have to deal with having about a 4 inch difference between the outside part and the inside part of the quarter. How's the 18 gauge steel working out for you, do you ever wish you'd gone thicker?
overhanger has one of the nicest I've seen
check for posts by overhanger...it's a totally pro job. looks perfect.
check for posts by overhanger...it's a totally pro job. looks perfect.
NAW
18G has been fine so far.
It doesnt seem flimsy, if that is what youre asking.
I dont think that it will sustain a big hit off of a ledge, but even if I did like lowtide and use 1/8 in plate, the rest of the quarter will crumple around it...so I suspect.
The pics are looking very good BTW. I like the wrap around youre doing. Have you thought about tying that into the back body mount? I have an idea utilizing that so it can be a bolt application.
I do almost wish that I hadnt gone STRAIGHT across for esthetic reasons. I thought that I would really like that, but after looking at how wilecyote did his and retained some of the factory angle at the back of the tires...looks a little "gentler" some how!
Wheres more pics?
Chicago
heres mine...i did not make it perfect but used 16 guage steel..used a cardboard template and like the others said tack tack tack weld grind...seam seal...sliders
finished product with bedliner on the bottom
that thing is turning into a Bruiser!
All that steel will pound the rocks into submission!
All that steel will pound the rocks into submission!
Wile E Coyote
Out in the streets, they call it murder!
that thing is turning into a Bruiser!
All that steel will pound the rocks into submission!
I agree. It discourages tailgating, too, I'd think
- Thread starter
- #16
I just got a digital camera to use so I'll have some pictures up pretty soon. I haven't actually started work yet...school is taking up most of my time right now, but I have a good idea of what I'm going to do, so I'll keep it posted as I make progress. Thanks for all the posts, I'm a rookie at fabricating so everything and anything is helpful!
I have learned everything I know about my hack "fabbing" on my rig (with gobs of help from the mud folks). Something about em...you just dont flinch cutting and wrenching on em like you would with a pretty 80 or 100 series.
Take your time and think it out.
look forward to seeing the progress.
Chicago
- Thread starter
- #18
So I finally got some armor where I trimmed my rear quarters. I got tired of waiting for a friend to have time to do some welding for me, and with snow on the road it SUCKED not having anything to keep it from flying up into my rear quarter panels, so I ended up getting together with a fabricator in boulder, CO and after tossing some ideas around we decided on a design. I left my cruiser in his capable hands, and was not disappointed! It's been so long I'm not sure what I did with the before pictures, but here are some after pictures
The sliders are made of 3/16" in. box steel with two pieces of tube steel connecting the slider to the frame. For added strength and protection there is piece of 3/16" plate going from the sliders to the frame. Where the plate connects to the frame their is a slit for drainage.
The sliders are made of 3/16" in. box steel with two pieces of tube steel connecting the slider to the frame. For added strength and protection there is piece of 3/16" plate going from the sliders to the frame. Where the plate connects to the frame their is a slit for drainage.
wow, looks beefy.
I'm also seeing exhaust pipes that vent below the rear cargo area, instead of outside the line of the body. Anybody getting exhaust back into the wagon? That'd be a deal-breaker for my dogs...
I'm also seeing exhaust pipes that vent below the rear cargo area, instead of outside the line of the body. Anybody getting exhaust back into the wagon? That'd be a deal-breaker for my dogs...
