555 TRE's. Castle Nut Too Short - Taller Castle Nut or Washers?

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Threw on a new driver's side inner and outer tie rod set last night from 555. Install was uneventful until it was time for the cotter pin for the outer castle nut. I torqued to 90 ft-lbs per the FSM and the castlenut is quite low on the threads, so much so that the cotter pin hole is close to being useless since it's so high above the castle nut. I made it work by wrapping the cotter pin legs "down" around the castle nut and I did put a thick washer under the castle nut to improve things. I need to lay them side by side but I believe the threads on the 555 TRE I got are longer with the cotter pin hole up higher than what I took off the truck. I may go with a taller castle nut so I can remove the washer.

Anybody else experience this?

As a side note on why you should learn to do your own work, the loose TRE was discovered during my $12 vehicle inspection required for licensing. They said BOTH inner and outer were shot which made me question it since it's hard to tell if the inner is loose with it on the truck and everything attached. I did see the outer was loose by the 9-3 check so I was fine hearing that news from the shop. I think they were just digging for more money since the inners are quite a bit more expensive than the outers. At any rate, they lost because I told them I would do the work myself which they were not expecting to hear since I was in my "fancy" office clothes. When I took the inner out, it seemed fine to me. Not loose at all. Oh well. It's replaced now so that is that. I took it back this morning and they passed it.

Anybody know the castlenut size and thread pitch?

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Cant you use the old castle nut?
 
Castle nut isn’t the problem. Same height as OEM if not a bit taller. I went out and compared the two TRE’s. Taper lengths are different which accounts for the change I’m seeing. At any rate, it works fine with a hard washer between the steering knuckle surface and the castle nut to raise it closer to then cotter pin hole.
 
Thought about that. Not sure yet. I know a lot of newer vehicles don't use a castlenut with cotterpin .

What do you think about using a nylock nut instead without a added washer?
 
I remember Mercedes switching to nylock nuts for steering components in the seventies instead of reusing the castellated nut and cotterpin for dealer service departments.
 
I'd return them if they don't look like originals. In the future, the ends are 35$ on partsouq
 
Your washer idea is a good one. But keep in mind, the cotter pin is just a safety. Using a large head cotter pin and bending the inner leg down into the castle notch, and other leg over top. Will secure cotter pin from rotating and so the nut. Even the OEMs, typically only catch the top 1/2 of castle groove.

That said; I only use OEM as long as available. I'm seeing replacement 555 TRE fail and boots ripped. Whereas the other side with factory TRE, still serviceable.

We use 555 ball joints upper and lower. Only because factory will not sell separate from control arm. The saving is near 10 fold. But they're not as good as factory in fitment or longevity IMHO. Fitment: the 555 presses up into LCA more than factory. The gap between LCA and steering knuckle is reduce ~2-3mm.
 
Yeah I think I’ll let it roll for the time being and just keep an eye on it for a couple of weeks. I could always pick up a set of OEM outers like you mentioned. The cotter pin is there for a safety that is correct. It’ll be fine.
 
On these 555’s, I’m assuming I can pop this cap out and screw in a zerk, especially since Sankei says they do not ship them with zerks anymore but you can add one. Has anyone done this with their 555 TRE’s?

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