5 minute start if your toyota/lexus ignition switch breaks landcruiser lx470 (1 Viewer)

[ponytl]

IF you.... like me, have joined the toyota/lexus spinning lock club, and need to get home or get your truck to a place you can fix it... this will get you on the road in 5-10 min. It will take longer to read all the related post to this issue and gather tools, than it will to get on the road... this is my first experience with this, BUT from reading the post they seem to all break in the same place... if this is so... then this should work for you

tools needed... phillips screwdriver, small screwdriver or small rod to release lock, wire/string/ziptie to tie key to immobilizer ring, tweezers or magnet to remove broken part, 9/32 or 7mm socket or nut driver with 7-8" reach

1. snap off black plastic trim above steering column / part just under your instrument cluster pry or pull it will snap loose you just need it loose, no screws just snaps in place
2. remove lower plastic trim panel under your steering column, 5 screws to remove Philips head... first is just to the left and below of the hood and gas tank latches... next 4 are what hold the gas and hood latch just behind each latch 2 screrws on each, each latch will slide/push out the back (towards the front of the truck) NOW this lower panel will "snap out" pull firmly around the edges ... the soft trim next to the door might be overlapping but you can push it out of the way.... unplug all the wires that go to the switches and set panel to the side...
3. remove the 1 phillips screw holding the black/clear immobilizer ring to your ignition lock pull ring to side
4. insert key into ignition, locate small hole in bottom of lock/ignition cylinder it's about 2.5" back and on the bottom... insert a small screwdriver or small rod in this hole applying light pressure up... now turn key somewhere around acc position you will feel the screwdriver/rod push up when you hit "the spot" it releases the key part of the ignition, now Pull the ignition out with your key ... the whole lock cylinder will pull out... and you will see the broken rod/actuator laying in the now exposed cylinder...
5. with tweezers or a magnet, reach in and pull the broken part out... NOW if you are as lucky..... as you can be in this situation... you are about to be able to start your truck and be on your way
6. Tie your ignition key to the clear/black plastic immobilizer ring you unscrewed and moved to the side.
7. looking into the lock barrel you can see what is left of the broken rod... a 9/32 or 7mm socket or nut driver will fit on this broken end and allow you to turn the ignition and start/drive your truck
you can see in the picture I checked the fit with the broken part I pulled out, you will want as tight a fit as you can get and you will need 7-8" to get in there and hit the spot

tools needed... phillips screwdriver, small screwdriver or small rod to release lock, wire/string/ziptie to tie key to immobilizer ring, tweezers or magnet to remove broken part, 9/32 or 7mm socket or nut driver with 7-8" reach to turn ignition, you do NOT need to remove metal panel under the steering column...

This will get you home I do not know how long you can keep using the socket to start your truck... mine fit very snug and I think I could use it for awhile if I had to... my key had to be tied very tight to the immobilizer ring to "communicate" I used the info from this board to get to the point where i saw the shape of the broken end left in the cylinder and figured I could turn it with the proper tool (9/32 nut driver worked for me)

 

[ponytl]

lucky I have an extra lx470 for her to drive while I decide... leaning toward a keyless remote / push button start system, something in my inner sole is keeping me from enriching toyota for this failed part...

 

[bjarnep]

Anybody installed a keyless push button starter system that can be recommended?

 

[ponytl]

Anybody installed a keyless push button starter system that can be recommended?

not yet but think I am about to

 

[bjarnep]

looking forward to hear more if and when

 

[ponytl]

ordered the remote start keyless system for this 470... it was less then the pot metal part from Toyota.. Lucky that I had just purchased another lx470 so she has something to drive, Cars have been on the back burner for the last month since i had a roof blow on some commercial property ... so I've been playing carpenter/roofer debris hauler 12-14hrs a day... was a good time to build a new facade .... told tenants they could get back in ... in the morning... my 80 project and this 100 have just been sitting and the new set of 285 60 r18s for my daily driver street cruiser are waiting to be mounted... if the keyless remote works out well i'm going to add it ti mine... I'll keep you posted

 

[labcab]

Any thoughts on how you'll disable the steering wheel lock?

 

[ponytl]

it will be disabled (the steering lock) no one has tried to steal it so far and doubt that is the limiting factor with the broken lock out of the cylinder the new remote start/push button start/security system will not allow the car to start without the remote within range and will not let the car drive unless the remote is within 3ft of the receiver... car will die if the brake is depressed if remote is out of range

 

[Elsie Inn]

Found this YouTube walkthrough first and his instructions and visuals helped me out a lot. Enough to be ready for my new part. But for anyone after me who needs to replace their barrel rod, you found the right spot. After reading the instructions above (very solid and to the point) and watching this video below you should be able to do the job blindfolded.

Hopefully your break is able to accept the socket. I wish mine broke off in the same way as the OP's did so I could have driven to work today. Replacement part is coming tonight. I tried to start the truck with a screwdriver (one time) for the vengence of it all, but clearly the Cruiser will not turn over or unlock its steering column. Best of luck. It's a simple replacement, just buy the part ASAP. You won't be able to find it locally.

 

[Snowrydr01]

it felt so wrong pulling that little part needed out of the casting and just throwing the rest away.

 

[sean2202]

Too bad @ponytl is not around much anymore. He had a lot of useful knowledge for fixes like this that can save money and frustration.

Wonder how he made out on the push button start. I do not know anyone who has installed one on a 100 series yet.

The fear of getting stranded after reading t horror stories made me buy this part. It has been riding with me in the back of the cruiser now for 2 years! Maybie someday I'll need it.

 

[Elsie Inn]

I am trying to reinsert a Bross replacement. Having a tough time getting it in.

 

[Elsie Inn]

I see a lot of help on removal but no tips/trick on putting it back in. If you have the beta please help me. I’m sitting on the driveway trying to get smart before I press and twist hard. Can’t quite find many tools to help besides a straight piece of uncoated hanger wire

 

[ponytl]

not on here much anymore... been fricking busy work and my son started racing dirt Karts so been building a lot of engines... I never did the remote / keyless start... looked like it could cause far more problems than it would be worth long term... what I did do is built my own barrel rod it has no steering lock but fingers crossed it's going on almost 2 years.. without issue... I'm not sure the stress of the steering lock when it gets in a bind might be the biggest factor in the failure of this part... pretty stress free without the steering lock... so if you use the cheap offshore version... might want to cut off the part that locks the steering... and might get some service out of it... jmho

 

[Elsie Inn]

All makes sense! I really liked seeing your solution. Inspired me to make a trail repair kit. I’ll make a thread about that some day.

 

[Brian Waag]

IF you.... like me, have joined the toyota/lexus spinning lock club, and need to get home or get your truck to a place you can fix it... this will get you on the road in 5-10 min. It will take longer to read all the related post to this issue and gather tools, than it will to get on the road... this is my first experience with this, BUT from reading the post they seem to all break in the same place... if this is so... then this should work for you

tools needed... phillips screwdriver, small screwdriver or small rod to release lock, wire/string/ziptie to tie key to immobilizer ring, tweezers or magnet to remove broken part, 9/32 or 7mm socket or nut driver with 7-8" reach

1. snap off black plastic trim above steering column / part just under your instrument cluster pry or pull it will snap loose you just need it loose, no screws just snaps in place
2. remove lower plastic trim panel under your steering column, 5 screws to remove Philips head... first is just to the left and below of the hood and gas tank latches... next 4 are what hold the gas and hood latch just behind each latch 2 screrws on each, each latch will slide/push out the back (towards the front of the truck) NOW this lower panel will "snap out" pull firmly around the edges ... the soft trim next to the door might be overlapping but you can push it out of the way.... unplug all the wires that go to the switches and set panel to the side...
3. remove the 1 phillips screw holding the black/clear immobilizer ring to your ignition lock pull ring to side
4. insert key into ignition, locate small hole in bottom of lock/ignition cylinder it's about 2.5" back and on the bottom... insert a small screwdriver or small rod in this hole applying light pressure up... now turn key somewhere around acc position you will feel the screwdriver/rod push up when you hit "the spot" it releases the key part of the ignition, now Pull the ignition out with your key ... the whole lock cylinder will pull out... and you will see the broken rod/actuator laying in the now exposed cylinder...
5. with tweezers or a magnet, reach in and pull the broken part out... NOW if you are as lucky..... as you can be in this situation... you are about to be able to start your truck and be on your way
6. Tie your ignition key to the clear/black plastic immobilizer ring you unscrewed and moved to the side.
7. looking into the lock barrel you can see what is left of the broken rod... a 9/32 or 7mm socket or nut driver will fit on this broken end and allow you to turn the ignition and start/drive your truck
you can see in the picture I checked the fit with the broken part I pulled out, you will want as tight a fit as you can get and you will need 7-8" to get in there and hit the spot

tools needed... phillips screwdriver, small screwdriver or small rod to release lock, wire/string/ziptie to tie key to immobilizer ring, tweezers or magnet to remove broken part, 9/32 or 7mm socket or nut driver with 7-8" reach to turn ignition, you do NOT need to remove metal panel under the steering column...

This will get you home I do not know how long you can keep using the socket to start your truck... mine fit very snug and I think I could use it for awhile if I had to... my key had to be tied very tight to the immobilizer ring to "communicate" I used the info from this board to get to the point where i saw the shape of the broken end left in the cylinder and figured I could turn it with the proper tool (9/32 nut driver worked for me)

View attachment 1361544

View attachment 1361545

Can you please post the part #? Thanks!

 

[ponytl]

IF you.... like me, have joined the toyota/lexus spinning lock club, and need to get home or get your truck to a place you can fix it... this will get you on the road in 5-10 min. It will take longer to read all the related post to this issue and gather tools, than it will to get on the road... this is my first experience with this, BUT from reading the post they seem to all break in the same place... if this is so... then this should work for you

tools needed... phillips screwdriver, small screwdriver or small rod to release lock, wire/string/ziptie to tie key to immobilizer ring, tweezers or magnet to remove broken part, 9/32 or 7mm socket or nut driver with 7-8" reach

1. snap off black plastic trim above steering column / part just under your instrument cluster pry or pull it will snap loose you just need it loose, no screws just snaps in place
2. remove lower plastic trim panel under your steering column, 5 screws to remove Philips head... first is just to the left and below of the hood and gas tank latches... next 4 are what hold the gas and hood latch just behind each latch 2 screrws on each, each latch will slide/push out the back (towards the front of the truck) NOW this lower panel will "snap out" pull firmly around the edges ... the soft trim next to the door might be overlapping but you can push it out of the way.... unplug all the wires that go to the switches and set panel to the side...
3. remove the 1 phillips screw holding the black/clear immobilizer ring to your ignition lock pull ring to side
4. insert key into ignition, locate small hole in bottom of lock/ignition cylinder it's about 2.5" back and on the bottom... insert a small screwdriver or small rod in this hole applying light pressure up... now turn key somewhere around acc position you will feel the screwdriver/rod push up when you hit "the spot" it releases the key part of the ignition, now Pull the ignition out with your key ... the whole lock cylinder will pull out... and you will see the broken rod/actuator laying in the now exposed cylinder...
5. with tweezers or a magnet, reach in and pull the broken part out... NOW if you are as lucky..... as you can be in this situation... you are about to be able to start your truck and be on your way
6. Tie your ignition key to the clear/black plastic immobilizer ring you unscrewed and moved to the side.
7. looking into the lock barrel you can see what is left of the broken rod... a 9/32 or 7mm socket or nut driver will fit on this broken end and allow you to turn the ignition and start/drive your truck
you can see in the picture I checked the fit with the broken part I pulled out, you will want as tight a fit as you can get and you will need 7-8" to get in there and hit the spot

tools needed... phillips screwdriver, small screwdriver or small rod to release lock, wire/string/ziptie to tie key to immobilizer ring, tweezers or magnet to remove broken part, 9/32 or 7mm socket or nut driver with 7-8" reach to turn ignition, you do NOT need to remove metal panel under the steering column...

This will get you home I do not know how long you can keep using the socket to start your truck... mine fit very snug and I think I could use it for awhile if I had to... my key had to be tied very tight to the immobilizer ring to "communicate" I used the info from this board to get to the point where i saw the shape of the broken end left in the cylinder and figured I could turn it with the proper tool (9/32 nut driver worked for me)

View attachment 1361544

View attachment 1361545

Follow up.... I never installed the keyless system with the factory alarm and all involved I thought i could get it working BUT if there was ever an issue no one would ever be able to fix it and I doubt That I would remember how i did everything to make it work... why look for problems... what I did was make my own start /barrel shaft that does not lock the steering... sorry I did not take pictures it was just one of those... she wants her truck back... make it happen... that was then and it's still on the road as fixed... I'm pretty sure if someone has the skill set to be able to steal this truck and circumvent the anti theft system the steering lock is the least of their worries... she is in and out all day so no telling how many times a day she might cycle the ignition but it's far more than most...

 

[Fevs]

IF you.... like me, have joined the toyota/lexus spinning lock club, and need to get home or get your truck to a place you can fix it... this will get you on the road in 5-10 min. It will take longer to read all the related post to this issue and gather tools, than it will to get on the road... this is my first experience with this, BUT from reading the post they seem to all break in the same place... if this is so... then this should work for you

tools needed... phillips screwdriver, small screwdriver or small rod to release lock, wire/string/ziptie to tie key to immobilizer ring, tweezers or magnet to remove broken part, 9/32 or 7mm socket or nut driver with 7-8" reach

1. snap off black plastic trim above steering column / part just under your instrument cluster pry or pull it will snap loose you just need it loose, no screws just snaps in place
2. remove lower plastic trim panel under your steering column, 5 screws to remove Philips head... first is just to the left and below of the hood and gas tank latches... next 4 are what hold the gas and hood latch just behind each latch 2 screrws on each, each latch will slide/push out the back (towards the front of the truck) NOW this lower panel will "snap out" pull firmly around the edges ... the soft trim next to the door might be overlapping but you can push it out of the way.... unplug all the wires that go to the switches and set panel to the side...
3. remove the 1 phillips screw holding the black/clear immobilizer ring to your ignition lock pull ring to side
4. insert key into ignition, locate small hole in bottom of lock/ignition cylinder it's about 2.5" back and on the bottom... insert a small screwdriver or small rod in this hole applying light pressure up... now turn key somewhere around acc position you will feel the screwdriver/rod push up when you hit "the spot" it releases the key part of the ignition, now Pull the ignition out with your key ... the whole lock cylinder will pull out... and you will see the broken rod/actuator laying in the now exposed cylinder...
5. with tweezers or a magnet, reach in and pull the broken part out... NOW if you are as lucky..... as you can be in this situation... you are about to be able to start your truck and be on your way
6. Tie your ignition key to the clear/black plastic immobilizer ring you unscrewed and moved to the side.
7. looking into the lock barrel you can see what is left of the broken rod... a 9/32 or 7mm socket or nut driver will fit on this broken end and allow you to turn the ignition and start/drive your truck
you can see in the picture I checked the fit with the broken part I pulled out, you will want as tight a fit as you can get and you will need 7-8" to get in there and hit the spot

tools needed... phillips screwdriver, small screwdriver or small rod to release lock, wire/string/ziptie to tie key to immobilizer ring, tweezers or magnet to remove broken part, 9/32 or 7mm socket or nut driver with 7-8" reach to turn ignition, you do NOT need to remove metal panel under the steering column...

This will get you home I do not know how long you can keep using the socket to start your truck... mine fit very snug and I think I could use it for awhile if I had to... my key had to be tied very tight to the immobilizer ring to "communicate" I used the info from this board to get to the point where i saw the shape of the broken end left in the cylinder and figured I could turn it with the proper tool (9/32 nut driver worked for me)

View attachment 1361544

View attachment 1361545

Can you please share where did you purchase your lock barrel from? thanks

 

[ponytl]

I never did... I built one.. and now have no steering lock... which I believe is the stress point that causes them to break in the first place... I'm pretty sure the steering lock is not the theft deterrent if all thieves believe all cars have em anyway

 

[Alex B]

Alright I joined the broken ignition club last week. My truck is 2003 LX470 with over 158K. The rod broke at a carwash while driven by someone else. Thanks to everyone posted in this thread, I was able to bring necessary tools with me to get the truck started at the carwash. Once the weekend came, I performed a "final" fix.

My temporary fix and final fix were same/similar to what @ponytl described in his fix. I did not feel like trying to replace it with the revised part for this as the replacement part doesn't appear to be much improved.

My barrel rod broke at the same location as Elsie Inn's photo, leaving a stub that can be "grabbed" by a socket. In my temporary fix I sacrificed a 10 mm socket. Using a Dremel I cut out a notch and used a screwdriver style socket driver to start the truck.

Temporary fix for barrel rod

• Alex B
• Dec 18, 2018

For my final fix, I used 11 mm long socket (11 mm seems to fit more snugly into the cylinder housing) and 8 mm long socket to connect it to the other end of original rod. Dremel and a Mig welder was used so my fix may be too involved for some of you folks.

Final fix for barrel rod

• Alex B
• Dec 18, 2018

Final fix for barrel rod

• Alex B
• Dec 18, 2018

In any case, if your situation allows you to try the socket method, the notch you'll need to cut is a little bit bigger than the 1/4 of the diameter of your socket. You can cut the notch bigger than that, it will work for your temporary fix. If you want to replicate my final fix, make sure to cut your notches as tight as possible and allow yourself plenty of time and comfortable workspace. It'll take some time to fit (I had to cut both of the sockets shorter length) and align the pieces.

The main lesson that we all should learn from this experience is to take your tools (good tools and cheap ones to sacrifice) with you on your long trips to the wilderness.