5.7 Vortec V-8 Swap / 86 FJ60

[Elbert]

I bought a new 5.7 vortec short block assembly as I recall that was about $2,500. Prrior to that, initially I bought an entire 5.7 engine with everything out of a salvalge yard for $1,200. I belive the Mark's kit + adapter was around $1,000 (advance adapters), new Toyota 5 speed...$1,800 or so. New radiator $400, electric fans new $200, wiring harness $800 or so, Misc parts + fittings etc probally another $1,500. And most likely another $1,000 on stuff I don't recall exaclty what I used it for. You can go cheaper than I did, as I bought some new big ticket items, once I get everything done...I just want to drive it, and not work on it.

 

[Elbert]

minor update...

Ok I installed the downey VSS adapter today and its made a change for good, in the way the truck runs. It's not dieing at idle and seems to have more power. Just got it installled a few hours ago. I should have done that at day one.

I now have 4.11 gears in the front and back, auburn LSD in the front and back. Longfield axles in the front. Went on and installed new rotors and pads too. INstalled all new bearings and seals on the front axle while I was doing it. Took my friend and I about 1.5 days. Not really trying to go fast but tyring to keep up with all the parts and stuff. Boy its nasty to screw around with the birfields....

Next on the list is the get some larger tires and different wheels (8 inch wide). An aftermarket bumpter front and rear, get the A/C going and a winch. Needs some bodywork on the roof and then I'll be "done" for some time.

I have the Shop manual and I would advise anyone to acquire one before they starte this job, unless you have a photographic memory or work on toyotas all the time.

Mechanically I think I"m in good shape now. I'm thinking about doing away with the rear heater core, since I'm having problems with it leaking at the hard line (at the firewall).

General question. IN regard to working on the transfer case expecially the gaskets and the maain gasket where the case splits. Are most peopole using just the paper gasket,or using silicone with the gastkets on both side? Looks liek we will have to go back into the transfer case and do the gaskets becuse its leaking some.

 

[ntsqd]

In looking at the FSM's assembly sequence the lone problem that I see in going gasketless is the side clearance of the idler gear between the thrust washers. If the gasket isn't terribly thick it's probably a non-issue, but if it has some dimension to it I'd be careful about not using one.

The NP241 under my Suburban is similarly split and has no gasket available, with ATF for lubrication. If it can leak at all, ATF will find the hole. I used the "Right Stuff" when I resealed it the second time (don't ask about the first time) and it has been drip-free ever since. Worth the premium price & highly recommended.

 

[Elbert]

I'm not saying run without a gasket.... I just trying to figure ot the best way to make sure it seals. Do most people use RTV or other gasket sealer along with the paper gasket, or is there some other known solution. IF I have to split the case again I don't want to have it leak again too.

 

[ntsqd]

Was it me I'd use the gasket. Stick it to the front half with a thin film of the Right Stuff. Then another thin film of the Right Stuff on the rear case half's gasket surface. Just know that the next time you want to open up the t/c that it won't be easy.

 

[lehiguy]

I used the grey colored RTV, it has the highest resistence to oil and it is the specified "stuff" for all Dodge diff covers, t'cases, etc. It has never failed me. And yes, I did use it on my Toyota T'case without issue. In fact, my neighbor, owner of a transmission shop, uses that and only that.

 

[ntsqd]

I also used a grey colored silicone on my first 241 re-seal. It did not work. So, be sure to buy the good stuff regardless of color.

 

[Elbert]

Don't recall if I mentioned it anywhere but the VSS install made all the difference in the world. Once I had the right parts from downey and I still had to get the correct nut to use on the idler shaft, the install took about 30 min or so. Truck runs good for the most part, clearly has more power, does not die under idle conditions, and you can clearly hear a better exhaust "tone"...

I removed the under body spare tire carrier and I have a large magnaflow muffler with two in / two out and "quasi" dual exhaust. Sounds pretty good.

Have the OME heavy / heavy lift and I want to run 8 inch wide tires. Got to make up my mind on either 15 or 16 inch wheels, then potentially something around the size of a 33*10.5*15 or 285/75/16. I do drive this thing off road sume and I don't want it scrubbing, but do want to take advantage of larger tires...any suggestions from those that drive something similar off-road. Will be looking to buy the BFG MT KM2 tires.

I hope to clean up some of the wiring under the hood during my vacation..as time permits the rest of this month.

** So the lesson learned ..... I should have installed a VSS @ day one! **

 

[iaintscared1969]

I fully agree with you on the VSS...Lessons learned. Great build and when you get the tires on post up som pics!

 

[djawahir]

Hey Elbert, I'm curious to know how you feel about the 5-speed. Does it shift as well as the Toyota 4-speed did? Do you have any problems with it?

And good find on the VSS. From all the stuff I've read, it's a necessity for a smooth running engine...

Are you running pre and post cat O2 sensors too?

 

[Elbert]

Comments on the Yota 5 Speed. Very nice transmission....its a little cold natured but after 10min or so it shifts fine. I think its at least as good as the 4 speed. Yeah I should have paid attention to the "old school rules" but I tried a different route on the VSS which in hindsight was a total waste of time and very frustrating. I think on a GM v-8 the NV 4500 would be a great choice too, depending on your setup and what type of drivetrain you want to run.

I'm only running o2 sensors in the front. I have no rear 02 sensors or "cat" converters. No emissions inspections in this area. In an emssions area I would suspect you would have to run cats plus all 4 o2 sensors, which is going to make space under the truck pretty tight.

 

[ntsqd]

What fluid does Toyota recommend for the trans?

 

[Elbert]

What fluid does Toyota recommend for the trans?

I don't know off hand....I think we used the same stuff as the 4 speed takes.

 

[Elbert]

Update....

I've still been having problems getting the truck to run right. I made some phone calls and email last week. Based on what I've learned....if you run the painless harness with a 96-00 5.7 vortec you need to run the PCM from a 96 or 97 year model truck. My PCM is from a 99 year model truck. I'll know in a about two weeks how this has turned out. I had to buy another PCM, Service # 16229684 , out of a 97 truck. I should get it in by mid week and then off to get it programmed, so maybe by the 23 or so I should have it back and the truck running hopefully.

I'll confirm the details as soon as I see if it's working right. I've been chasing my @$$ some time on this and I hope this is the fix.

I don't think the literature or the manual from painless is clear on this fact and so I guess its live and learn.

 

[Elbert]

Another Update. Looks like I've solved the "running right" problem. I spoke with Ed Wright at fastchip.com and learned that I needed PCM from a 97 truck in order to interface with the painless wiring harnes. Bought one off EBAY had it programmed by ED and its runnig good. To say its has a good bit of power is an understatement. I would recomend ED to anyone needing their PCM programmed. I just received the PCM today back from ED and insttalled it , and then went for a test drive. What a difference....sounds great and runs great. So as of today I think I have most of the mechanical issuess "squared away" at this point and we'll see how the "Tan Brick" runs from here on out.
Ed knows what he is doing and is familiar with issues related to custom setups, I wish I had dealt with him in the first place. It would have saved me some $$ and aggrivation.

I'm looking for a 2500 Suburban and then we'll get a car hauler trialer and I plan on going to some of these different rides. ITs just not a great thing to drive the cruiser a long distance and then off-road and then have to drive back. Plus if you get off somewhere and the 60 has issues you have problems, which I'm sure happens to everyone but not a great day when it happens off on the trail or back in the middle of no-where. Waiting on my wheels and then should have some decent mud tires in a couple of weeks.

 

[Elbert]

update...

I was experiencing issues with the clutch slipping...and suspected the throwout bearing was not fully releasing at times or most of the time...

For those who go the marks adapter route...make sure you have the most uptodate instuctions from AA, and make sure you install the shims that attach to the clutch fork or clutch arm as appropriate. Since the instructiosn I was provided made no mention of this....we had no knowlege of these "shims"...

Warning to those who take the same path...(there now is a an 11 page pdf on teh AA web site)...pay attention to page 3) current as of the date of this post.

The guys at ACC fixed this "screw-up" for me and the trans shifts fine now without slipping. Just wanted to make sure that anyone else who installs one of these kits is aware of the shims for the clutch fork and that they have the new comprehensive insturctions...for whatever reason we did not have these back at day one on my swap.

http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/pn-713025-ek/

 

[Elbert]

Another update. I've posted in various threads about cooling with a v8 swap. Forget the electric fans and all of the other junk... Here is what works for a 5.7 vortec running a marks bellhousing adapter. Aftermarket 4 core brass radiator, custom / fabricated fan shroud, GM fan and GM fan clutch that matches the year engine (in my case 1999 SUV/Pickup). See pictures. The truck has a 1 inch body lift so things may look a little different than stock height (fan vs. radiator). This is the solution..... I also run A/C all the time with no problems.

 

[Elbert]

2nd post on fan shroud

last two pics showing cooling setup. Don't bother screwing around with electric fans.... I drive this truck however hard I want to, I run the A/C non stop, it will idle all day with a/c on and will not get hot, Since I have 4.88 gears....I'm not cruising around on the hwy at 70+....when I do drive on the hwy its here and there.. 55mph to 60 or so. Anyway I know I've posted in a bunch of threads, some of which were mine etc.... this or something similar is where you want to go with a GM V8 swap in regard to cooling. My friend made the shroud....

Just wanted to share a good solution that I know works, maybe it will help some others to get there. I'm sure a similar solution works for the old school 5.7 SBC ( I don't care too much for the old GM 5 blade fans) , and I'm sure something similar would worrk for the new generation 5.3 and 6.0 engines.

 

[Elbert]

I've not been good with keeping up with changes and I'm too lazy to go back and read through this entire post. What the truck looks like on the exterior in regard to body condition and paint is the same as it was when I got it. Truck has the following...4+ front winch bumper with warn 9K winch, 4+ rear bumper with tire swing out, 3inch OME SUA lift, one inch body lift, 33 inch BFG KO MT, 4.88 gears, aussie locker in the front, power trax locker in the rear, front and rear axles..new bearings etc back when lockers installed. 5.7 Vortec GM V8, marks bellhousing adapter, h55f 5 speed manual, split-case transfer case, downey vss adapter, painless standalone wiring harness ( I would buy howell next time), A/C is functional, custom radiator fan shroud, ham and cb radios, I pulled the carpet out becuase it was wore out and nasty, different radio and center console, dual stick tc shifters, 1.5 inch spacers at the wheels, rock crawler 15 steel wheels, round eye head light, various gauges, CS 144 Alternator.

Still plenty of stuff I need to do when I get motivated...like clean up some of the wiring, rig up some type of rubber mat or something for carpet replacement... and many little odds and ends.

I generally don't drive it that much on the pavment but here and there screwing around town.

 

[ntsqd]

Is that upper radiator hose also your donor's application? It looks like a good fit for my 5.7 TPI install.