5.3 FJ62 Cold Air Intake Ideas (1 Viewer)

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Cold air intake
To get cold air to your motor

if it’s not in a sealed box grabbing air from outside of the engine bay, it’s not a cold air intake

anyone with a tube and a filter attached to said tube and it’s still inside the engine bay, congratulations you just got a warm air intake. More air flow yes, cold air no not all just grabbing warm engine bay air

you must grab cold air from outside of the engine bay...that’s why performance cold air intakes move your filters down and away from the engine bay.

Orrr you can get the ultimate cold air intake and go get a snorkel and only grab the cold air from outside

Anyways, grab an Fj80 round filter housing that’s bolts in and attach a 4 inch hose to it

View attachment 2583829

View attachment 2583830
Just move your maf closer to your throttle body, no one says it can’t be the first thing off the throttle body
Why would you do this? Stay on topic
 

rhah

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Why would you do this? Stay on topic
🤨 never left

your question was out of the box cold air intake

No you won’t find an out of the box cold air intake, most of them are not even cold air

you need to get out of the engine bay to be cold air

a stock Fj80 air box bolts to your fender and grabs outside cold air.

it’s sealed, it’s cold air, it bolts up, and just need a hose attached. Pics supplied, same style as @EasternYeti provided
 

tmxmotorsports

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@cruisermatt we've had this discussion before...

Screenshot_20200327-205328.png
 
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I need to do this, absolutely loath the sensitivity of mine
Help me on this one. I had a speed tune leaving CA headed to Texas and when I got to altitude the truck s*** on me, timing wouldn’t compensate. My engine guy said the CA closed tune wont work and set it back to the MAS. What have I missed here cause I’m tired of the lean bank 1 issues every other day. We’ve replace everything, tuned, 2 dynos, LS guy drove it 3 straight days with computer hooked and everything set to MAS was perfect, pulled 02’s plugs vacuum leaks and fuel evap system is upgraded to modern GM system. I’m out of ideas. I’m ready to delete the VVT and put an 850 Holley on it with open pipes (that kinda mad)
 

cruisermatt

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Help me on this one. I had a speed tune leaving CA headed to Texas and when I got to altitude the truck s*** on me, timing wouldn’t compensate. My engine guy said the CA closed tune wont work and set it back to the MAS. What have I missed here cause I’m tired of the lean bank 1 issues every other day. We’ve replace everything, tuned, 2 dynos, LS guy drove it 3 straight days with computer hooked and everything set to MAS was perfect, pulled 02’s plugs vacuum leaks and fuel evap system is upgraded to modern GM system. I’m out of ideas. I’m ready to delete the VVT and put an 850 Holley on it with open pipes (that kinda mad)

It’s just a stock 5.3 running on P01/P59 or E38 right? Sorry, but if your experts can’t get that working right you need to find some new experts.

And if you don’t like it now then putting a carb on it is really not going to make it better. :lol:
 
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It’s just a stock 5.3 running on P01/P59 or E38 right? Sorry, but if your experts can’t get that working right you need to find some new experts.

And if you don’t like it now then putting a carb on it is really not going to make it better. :lol:
It’s just a stock 5.3 running on P01/P59 or E38 right? Sorry, but if your experts can’t get that working right you need to find some new experts.

And if you don’t like it now then putting a carb on it is really not going to make it better.
It’s just a stock 5.3 running on P01/P59 or E38 right? Sorry, but if your experts can’t get that working right you need to find some new experts.

And if you don’t like it now then putting a carb on it is really not going to make it better. :lol:
Kidding about the carb, I’m running out of “experts”. Problem is where I’m at the gm guys will look at their stuff, I try to get them to talk to the Toyota guys and 6 shops in and they have ended up pointing at each other like sorry I know engines, sorry I know Toyota, back and forth. I never claimed to be an expert at anything and money doesn’t even get their attention. And what the hell, it’s a TLC build and a Top Line install in LA and well maintained, however got some gremlins, I’ll get there.
 
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It’s just a stock 5.3 running on P01/P59 or E38 right? Sorry, but if your experts can’t get that working right you need to find some new experts.

And if you don’t like it now then putting a carb on it is really not going to make it better. :lol:
I’m ready to drive it to Kansas and drop it with Jim at Land Cruiser Restorations
 

cruisermatt

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Help me on this one. I had a speed tune leaving CA headed to Texas and when I got to altitude the truck s*** on me, timing wouldn’t compensate. My engine guy said the CA closed tune wont work and set it back to the MAS. What have I missed here cause I’m tired of the lean bank 1 issues every other day. We’ve replace everything, tuned, 2 dynos, LS guy drove it 3 straight days with computer hooked and everything set to MAS was perfect, pulled 02’s plugs vacuum leaks and fuel evap system is upgraded to modern GM system. I’m out of ideas. I’m ready to delete the VVT and put an 850 Holley on it with open pipes (that kinda mad)

don't take this as a dig but it would probably help us to figure out your issues if you started with the correct names of everything... "speed tune", "closed tune", "MAS", none of these terms you used are the right names so it's hard to give you advice, I'm making an educated guess that you mean, "speed density", "closed loop", and "mass air flow".

You said you have VVT, I see a Gen 4 intake manifold and card-style MAF sensor, so this is Gen 4 running on a E38, correct? These can be pretty finicky.

Do you have HP Tuners? How are you tuning the vehicle?

An easy check if you haven't yet is to unplug the o2 sensors and swap the connectors side to side and make sure it still gives you the same Bank 1 code.
 
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don't take this as a dig but it would probably help us to figure out your issues if you started with the correct names of everything... "speed tune", "closed tune", "MAS", none of these terms you used are the right names so it's hard to give you advice, I'm making an educated guess that you mean, "speed density", "closed loop", and "mass air flow".

You said you have VVT, I see a Gen 4 intake manifold and card-style MAF sensor, so this is Gen 4 running on a E38, correct? These can be pretty finicky.

Do you have HP Tuners? How are you tuning the vehicle?

An easy check if you haven't yet is to unplug the o2 sensors and swap the connectors side to side and make sure it still gives you the same Bank 1 code.
Thanks for the feedback, no dig no issue. I agree but was only intended for the intake air conversation but got feedback that got off track and the conversation slowly turned.

So question is if the conversation turns like this on this platform do you modify it and the subject or kill it and start new. I’m still learning.

-As for the E38 I’m not sure.
-Closed loop
-I don’t have a tuner but did buy a OBD and an app to watch everything
-As soon as the issue happens again I will reset and swap and drive again.

I’d read moving setup to IAT and ditching the sensor. Input?

Thanks
 
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cruisermatt

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Thanks for the feedback, no dig no issue. I agree but was only intended for the intake air conversation but got feedback that got off track and the conversation slowly turned.

So question is if the conversation turns like this on this platform do you modify it and the subject or kill it and start new. I’m still learning.

-As for the E38 I’m not sure.
-Closed loop
-I don’t have a tuner but did buy a OBD and an app to watch everything
-As soon as the issue happens again I will reset and swap and drive again.

I’d read moving setup to IAT and ditching the sensor. Input?

Thanks

Yeah, sorry to go so off track from your original question but seems like you have more important issues then a air filter, lets figure it out so you can be happy with your LS swap

In order:
1. E38 - post a picture of your ECU. This is the Gen 4 ECU used from 07 and onwards, when I said they can be tricky, they have a TON of features that when working correctly make a vehicle like a 2010 Silverado work flawlessly, however once in a swap, stuff like Torque Management, abuse modes etc can get in the way. I have very little E38 experience, but I'm going to wager your best bet is to probably just have a completely new tune file uploaded and start from scratch. There are several guys that you can just mail your ECU to and it may be more convient then to try and find a local shop. Lt1swaps.com, pcmforless.com and 150tunes.com are a few that are good.
2. closed loop means that your ECU is using feedback from the O2 sensors to constantly modify the fuel mixtures to provide correct air/fuel ratios. Loop: Combustion, o2's read exhaust mixture, ECU uses that data (along with TPS, MAF, MAP, and all other sensors in harmony) and runs the engine, combustion, repeat. "open loop" means that the ECU just uses default settings and is not as efficient. Generally open loop is just for when the engine is cold and will go into closed loop once at operating temperate, I believe the default coolant temperature to enable closed loop is 185-190 ish
3. That's nice but without actually changing the tune in the ECU you aren't changing anything
4. ^ when you say "reset", and "swap", what do you mean, exactly?

Really, there is no reason not to run all the sensors in their original configuration in something like a Land Cruiser with a stock LS engine for most users. There are benefits in performance cars or with forced induction where the stock MAF sensors can only read a certain range of data and don't work properly past that. Unless you are experienced with his kind of thing and know what you want and what you're doing the best bet is to just have the engine management work the way GM intended it to. If that makes sense.
 
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Yeah, sorry to go so off track from your original question but seems like you have more important issues then a air filter, lets figure it out so you can be happy with your LS swap

In order:
1. E38 - post a picture of your ECU. This is the Gen 4 ECU used from 07 and onwards, when I said they can be tricky, they have a TON of features that when working correctly make a vehicle like a 2010 Silverado work flawlessly, however once in a swap, stuff like Torque Management, abuse modes etc can get in the way. I have very little E38 experience, but I'm going to wager your best bet is to probably just have a completely new tune file uploaded and start from scratch. There are several guys that you can just mail your ECU to and it may be more convient then to try and find a local shop. Lt1swaps.com, pcmforless.com and 150tunes.com are a few that are good.
2. closed loop means that your ECU is using feedback from the O2 sensors to constantly modify the fuel mixtures to provide correct air/fuel ratios. Loop: Combustion, o2's read exhaust mixture, ECU uses that data (along with TPS, MAF, MAP, and all other sensors in harmony) and runs the engine, combustion, repeat. "open loop" means that the ECU just uses default settings and is not as efficient. Generally open loop is just for when the engine is cold and will go into closed loop once at operating temperate, I believe the default coolant temperature to enable closed loop is 185-190 ish
3. That's nice but without actually changing the tune in the ECU you aren't changing anything
4. ^ when you say "reset", and "swap", what do you mean, exactly?

Really, there is no reason not to run all the sensors in their original configuration in something like a Land Cruiser with a stock LS engine for most users. There are benefits in performance cars or with forced induction where the stock MAF sensors can only read a certain range of data and don't work properly past that. Unless you are experienced with his kind of thing and know what you want and what you're doing the best bet is to just have the engine management work the way GM intended it to. If that makes sense.
Cruiser is in the shop for trip ready but will send pic of ecu. What I do know:

-GM E-Rod crate LC9 with all components out of 2014 Yukon new.
-Got home to Texas and deleted secondary 02 sensors
-Retune with new engine spec air sensor and confirmed intake setup correct GM engineering
-LS shop hooked up computer and downloaded GM performance file specific to the purchased engine
-Second shop LS shop confirmed download was correct all data was within tune from first shop with fuel, air short and long term fuel, temps and dyno performance were spec
-Both shops build all the GM engines and both talked to the GM hotline to get data for my setup. Both confirmed the program was correct for my setup. There was 1 TCB to the ECU but didn’t apply.
-Your #3 they did the setup reset when the switched from closed to open loop. Second shop confirmed the 1st shop had to correct.
-The issue with the closed loop and 02 sensors is the way it was tuned, closed loop is when I got to about 5k feet limped on me. The shop I ended up at in NM said the tune setup for closed loop with 4 sensors the map wouldn’t adjust and discovered the airflow sensor was bad, so new MAS and delete secondary 02’s. The previous owner never knew this because he stayed at sea level. Why it ran rich, loaded everything up on plugs etc. and on and on.

I’m trying to be as transparent and above my pay grade at this point. I think my issues overall is I can’t get 1 shop to say we will fix this if we break the bank.
 

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