4x4labs rear bumper build (5 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

After installing the bumper with tire on the driver side and a full tank of gas, I only have a ¼" difference. The driver rear sits ¼" lower than the passenger.

Which is not a big deal...

It's also important to note, I have the Heavy springs.
 
I had mine put on the passenger side because the weight of a full tank of gas and the tire on the left side and me on the left side , seemed to much ... And as it turns out it really doesn't matter which side you get , because there are identical holes drilled on each swing out arm that you can pick which side you want to install the tire carrier ... And also the fact that when it's shipped to you , the tire arm isn't welded to either side , it's a bolt on that you bolt on !

I was lucky enough to get that rear bumper for their cash price of $1850 , I stead of the $ $2200 price cause 4x4 labs is about 8 miles from me !

IMG_20200819_164343.jpg
 
Ahh very true if you get a dual swing out you can swap sides, I have a single so I could swap it with the ladder/fuel/drop down table but then the weight would be further away from the single pivot when open..
 
Installing the gas strut was an absolute bear! Are used a long woodworking clam and clamped it in and slipped it up into place! Not easy at all
 
Last edited:
managed to get it on with some ratchet straps.
couple of questions
is everyone's wheel carrier mounted slanted or straight up and down?
the swing arm latch stopper. is it standing vertically or flat down?
any sag at all in the swingarm with the tire carrier loaded?
 
how do you get the gas strut on? haha


As long as the strut posts are some what close to the correct locations on the bumper and the swingouts, you should be able to put one end of the strut on the swingout/bumper and attach the other end as you close it. Worked for me anyways.

I gotta give this thread credit for helping guide me and Jimmy @CenTXFJ60 on building this thing.. the lack of instructions from 4x4labs is pretty irritating but they said they are working on including instructions for future customers. Definitely spent hours zooming in on photos here.. so thanks turned out pretty damn good.

20201129_151205.jpg
 
Guys,
Quick question: did anyone cut their rear crossmember off and prep...and then drive to the fabricator for the bumper build? I'm trying to be pro-active and prep as much for the shop, But I'm unsure of safety driving my 100 series about 20 miles without a rear crossmember.


Thanks in advance, tons of valuable info in here.
 
Guys,
Quick question: did anyone cut their rear crossmember off and prep...and then drive to the fabricator for the bumper build? I'm trying to be pro-active and prep as much for the shop, But I'm unsure of safety driving my 100 series about 20 miles without a rear crossmember.


Thanks in advance, tons of valuable info in here.
Why not bolt the receiver hitch back up to stabilize the frame?
 
Guys,
Quick question: did anyone cut their rear crossmember off and prep...and then drive to the fabricator for the bumper build? I'm trying to be pro-active and prep as much for the shop, But I'm unsure of safety driving my 100 series about 20 miles without a rear crossmember.


Thanks in advance, tons of valuable info in here.
You should be fine for 20 miles. We have people do it all the time to our shop.
 
As long as the strut posts are some what close to the correct locations on the bumper and the swingouts, you should be able to put one end of the strut on the swingout/bumper and attach the other end as you close it. Worked for me anyways.

I gotta give this thread credit for helping guide me and Jimmy @CenTXFJ60 on building this thing.. the lack of instructions from 4x4labs is pretty irritating but they said they are working on including instructions for future customers. Definitely spent hours zooming in on photos here.. so thanks turned out pretty damn good.

View attachment 2512207

Thread drift: damn clean 61 - nice.
 
Guys,
Quick question: did anyone cut their rear crossmember off and prep...and then drive to the fabricator for the bumper build? I'm trying to be pro-active and prep as much for the shop, But I'm unsure of safety driving my 100 series about 20 miles without a rear crossmember.
4x4 labs is so efficient that they make quick and precise work out of the install anyway... I'd leave the stock rear bumper on in the event someone not paying attention hits you. Safer with it than without ya know..
 
how do you get the gas strut on? haha
After you get the ball mounts for the struts installed you can loosen the top nut on the spindle, open the swing out until it hits the stop then lift the swing out so that the stop tooth rests on top of the stop. Once the tooth is resting on the stop you’re now able to push the swing out beyond 100 degrees and pop the strut on the mounts without having to compress the strut at all. After the strut is on you simply push the arm until the tooth falls back to the normal stop position (95 degree angle), tighten the spindle nut and you’re done.

Re reading what I wrote I concede that it may sound confusing but when you’re actually doing it I’m confident it will make sense. The idea is to never have to compress the struts at all to install them, just push the arms out so the struts fit while fully extended.
 
@chudly Seeing as you have the latest 100 series build...I'm wondering if you can tell me where the two ''filler'' plates go that have a hole in it and 2 little notches in them. Just trying to line everything up for my welder so we arent scratching our heads on the company dime.
 
@chudly Seeing as you have the latest 100 series build...I'm wondering if you can tell me where the two ''filler'' plates go that have a hole in it and 2 little notches in them. Just trying to line everything up for my welder so we arent scratching our heads on the company dime.
Do you have a picture? Are they curved on one side?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom