4runner 5 speed transmission/clutch problems

[CAW16]

I just bought my first truck, it's a '91 4runner 3.0 V6 5 speed 4x4. The dude I bought it from put in a brand new Toyota clutch/pressure plate, master and slave clutch cylinders. The only problem that I've encountered is that I have to double clutch to put it in 1st gear as well as reverse. The clutch is completely to the floor. I cannot put it in 1st gear while rolling even after I'm in neutral and I double clutch, I still grind the gears. Can someone please help me, I do not want to tear up my transmission anymore. Thank yall

 

[KLF]

Hmmm....

I had this exact condition with my '87 when I bought it 12 years ago. Very difficult to get into 1st or R when sitting still, and it would grind. Tried a new clutch master AND slave, bled it multiple times, didn't help. Finally pulled the tranny down and the clutch was worn out. New clutch, it was fine after that. Doesn't seem like that could be the issue though.

A friend had a similar problem with his Tacoma, and when we got the trans down, we found the pivot bolt for the fork was snapped off.

Could also be that the clutch disc is in backwards.

 

[CAW16]

Is there any possibility of it being a synchronizer? I'm just wondering. I'm gonna end up takin it to the mechanic I just want to have a good idea of what it is so I don't get raped when the bill comes.

 

[ajordan1975]

In thinking maybe the synceos.

 

[snobdds]

I would recheck all the clutch pedal height adjustments that tie into the clutch master cylinder. Make sure they all check out.

 

[dkdnt232]

I would say that maybe the clutch is worn or the travel on the pedal is not enough. I really don't think it may be a synchro because you double clutch it just to get the gears in. If it was a synchro you would get the same result by pressing the clutch just once.

I know you say the PO changed it but he could have just said that.

 

[PAToyota]

As mentioned, I'd confirm that the work was actually done. Then make sure it is bled and adjusted properly. I also know I went through three parts store clutch cylinders in a year before going back to OEM. The "lifetime warranty" ones just aren't worth the trouble. I know you said Toyota parts, but I'd make sure of that too.

 

[CAW16]

I appreciate the responses, I'll go through and check out the pedal height, make sure it's bled properly, and I'll get the receipts from the guy I bought it from. I've also read that it might be a pilot and seat bushing that might have worn on the shifter. Could this be a possibility because it shifts real nice in the other gears?

 

[KLF]

The clutch pedal freeplay adjustment is another good point, I had similar shifting issues after a clutch replacement, and all I had to do was adjust this. There should be about 10mm of free travel of the clutch pedal at the very upper end of the travel, when properly adjusted.

A worn shifter seat usually cause the shifter to feel really sloppy.

 

[totallytoyota]

could it be possible that the slave cylinder came with a different pushrod for the clutch fork than the original one that came with the truck.I have had this happen to me in the past. try to put a small spacer between the push rod and the clutch fork , adjust pedal free play,and see if it will go in gear. it might take a couple trys to get the pushrod long enough to push the clutch fork in far enough. if this works, make a new rod to your new length and you should be good. hope this will help

 

[CAW16]

I drove home from college today and my dad and I started messing with the 4runner. I ordered a shifter seat, and bushing from Marlin Crawler a couple days ago just to start with the cheapest option. It took about 20 minutes to remove and reinstall the bushing, and putting the console back in. The bushing and seat solved the problem of grinding going into first gear. I no longer have to double clutch, which I don't know why double clutching relieved the problem anyways. We noticed that the master cylinder moves a little bit on the firewall when the clutch is pushed all the way in. The master clutch rod is adjusted all the way out. I'm guessing we could try to get a longer rod??

Going into reverse grinds hard when you try to ease it into gear, and scrapes if you stick it in gear quickly. Still not sure what the problem is there....

 

[arndog123]

Check the clutch pedal bracket under the dash for cracks. I had to replace my '90's bracket and it's not too bad of a job. Easier than a clutch replacement. Here's a link of what I'm talking about,

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=231519

 

[KLF]

Geez, I can't believe I didn't think of that. ^^

I had a friend with the same condition, a '95 4Runner, difficult to shift, pedal bracket was cracked. I just beefed mine up a couple of weeks ago with a gusset plate and extra reinforcement strut, since it was out of the truck anyway. I'll try to post pictures later.

 

[SlayTank]

Just thought I'd throw my 2 cents in, I replaced my clutch awhile back when the old pressure plate fingers blew out. Put new Master Cyl and Slave Cyl at the same time bled it.

Got it on the road again and I started having issues with the clutch, I'd have to double clutch it sometimes to get it into 1st(and reverse) and right after I'd get off the freeway(to put it in any gear) or when I'd pull up and stop while facing up hill. I thought the master cly was bad so replaced that and bled it about 20 times after that cuz i was having the same issue and it wouldn't go away. I didn't know what to do…

Then one day I put in the clutch to start my truck and heard a thunk… right at start up. I let go of the clutch and it was running fine but if i put in the clutch it would make a terrible grinding sound. Got it home dropped the trans pulled the flywheel and thats where I found the flywheel was grinding into the starter when I would put the clutch in… SO what had taken me months to figure out was the ENTIRE crank shaft was moving forward when the clutch was applied because the thrust bearings in the motor were wearing down more and more. So when I would apply the clutch the release fork would push the pressure plate but the whole crank would push forward. the master cly would run out of travel so i'd have to pump the clutch again to get the crank to contact the worn thrust washers. the thunk i heard was the thrust washers finally falling out of the motor.(Whoever rebuild the motor in 97 put the thrust washers in backward and starved the bearings of oil (little oil groves go toward the crank, not the cap)

SO long story short check the end play of the crank cuz the whole thing might be moving forward when clutch is applied instead of operating the pressure plate fingers.

 

[KLF]

Whoa...